how to take out the primary clutch without clutch puller!!!!

Trashy

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OK....So I have never pulled a TRA. So I went to snowmobilerecyclers(great place to deal at) Bought a new puller, and clutch holder wrench. Minor investment for $55. I loosened of the 13/16th bolt, and the first half of the sheave just came off with my hand. Is this normal???

The second half is still on, and I can see why a puller, or the water trick is needed. So now, I don't know if I should be pulling off the fixed sheave, when I see the problems inside the 1st sheave.

So I guess what I am asking......is it normal for the first 1/2 to slide right off, without any resistance???
 

teeroy

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OK....So I have never pulled a TRA. So I went to snowmobilerecyclers(great place to deal at) Bought a new puller, and clutch holder wrench. Minor investment for $55. I loosened of the 13/16th bolt, and the first half of the sheave just came off with my hand. Is this normal???

The second half is still on, and I can see why a puller, or the water trick is needed. So now, I don't know if I should be pulling off the fixed sheave, when I see the problems inside the 1st sheave.

So I guess what I am asking......is it normal for the first 1/2 to slide right off, without any resistance???
yeah, it's no biggie. on my old ZX the sliding half used to come off easily, not sure why really. if your clutch wasn't wobbling or sloppy before you loosened the bolt you should be okay.
 

Trashy

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yeah, it's no biggie. on my old ZX the sliding half used to come off easily, not sure why really. if your clutch wasn't wobbling or sloppy before you loosened the bolt you should be okay.

Cool, and Thank you. My AC, did the same, when I put the light weight roller's in it this summer. Just wasn't to sure about the Doo.
 

wiffler79

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i couldn't beileve how well it works on the doo clutch, the polaris clutch works to i just got a 3/4 inch by four inch fine thread bolt teflon taped it poured water in the hole and started ratcheting it litterally poped up 8 inches when it come. there is a bigger hole in the poo clutches so it takes more water witch will take more turns to pressure it up, and way safer on the crank shaft to.
 

mxz sledhead

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don't be cheap buy the tool a whole lot less stress i bought just about all tools you need to work on Doo maybe $300 .i gave up on the red neck ways
 

pistonbroke800

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don't be cheap buy the tool a whole lot less stress i bought just about all tools you need to work on Doo maybe $300 .i gave up on the red neck ways

How is it less stress having $300 worth of tools that dont work? Spend money on the TRA button holders and thats it.
 

Modman

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don't be cheap buy the tool a whole lot less stress i bought just about all tools you need to work on Doo maybe $300 .i gave up on the red neck ways

One of the properties of water is that is almost incompressible. the reason it works so well is that since you cannot compress water (very slightly), so the hydraulic pressure forces it off. Being able to hold your clutch lightly is a bonus and not have to apply excessive force to get it off or do something that is detrimental to the crank bearings is another bonus! The water trick works, the puller is there for proper application but there is always the risk of snapping it off in the process, as some people have done. Both methods use the clutch threads as the anchor point, so if you wreck them with the water method at least you will not have the puller stuck in there (and you would have wrecked them with the puller anyway).
 

teeroy

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Will this work on a Cat clutch?
read thru the whole thread, for the water trick to work with the stock clutch bolt, the threads on the fixed half of the clutch must be the same size as the threads in the crank stub. pretty sure cat and polaris pullers have threads that are bigger than the stock clutch bolt, you would have to find a bolt with the same size threads as the puller.
 

trench

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i couldn't beileve how well it works on the doo clutch, the polaris clutch works to i just got a 3/4 inch by four inch fine thread bolt teflon taped it poured water in the hole and started ratcheting it litterally poped up 8 inches when it come. there is a bigger hole in the poo clutches so it takes more water witch will take more turns to pressure it up, and way safer on the crank shaft to.
Good info there, going to have to try this on my Polaris clutch, never liked cranking on the puller to get it loose.
 

PS94

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I've used this on a sled where the bolt threads into the crank first. The crank is tapered, and the slight hydraulic pressure inside it causes it to swell, shooting the clutch right off...BANG!
 

whitell

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just tryed this on my e-tec, worked great. have to use thread sealing tape though, the liquid in a squeeze tube is what i usually keep in my tool box and didnt work at all. had to scavenge to find the tape.
 

cnelson6

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I was speaking to pistonbroke on the first page of this thread! Sorry Dustin! Had to do a bit of cyberbullying!
 

Billy Boy

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Tried the water trick on a freinds son's 97 Summit 500 clutch. it wouldnt work (probably was doing it wrong) so I tried a little oil and it worked real slick but there was no bang? I used it in combination with the clutch puller. Cleaned up the oil with some break clean.

Billy Boy:cool:
 

T-team

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I have a WAY quicker way to remove clutches.... Step one.....Incrase speed to 100+ km's an hour...... Step two....Locate large tree...... See below for step three
PICTURES 007.jpg
 

pistonbroke800

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Did you use the puller with water? You have to use a mounting bolt. The tip of the puller bolt pushes out the water before you even get started if you try using it.
 

JMCX

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The hydraulic trick works with any clutch. You just need to identify what size of threads are inside the fixed half and use the appropriate bolt. Only Doo's of the last few years can you actually use the mounting bolt (same thread in clutch as in end of crank). Nothing wrong with using an actual puller bolt as you will develop the same hydraulic force as long as you get a good seal on the threads. The reason this works so good is that you can create a huge force against the whole surface of the end of crank vs just the tiny area the puller (actually pusher) bolt does. Also less of your energy is robbed by friction at the threads and tip of the puller.
 
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