Hooking up koso egt wiring

rigrat

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Good day. Just installed my KOSO EGTs and would like to know if it is ok to use the existing wires for my headlights as a power source for the egts? Did a headlight delete so the wires are right where i need them. Sled is an 08 M1000. Thanks.
 

kraftymike

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Your fuel pump is a great easy place to pick up power for a handle bar mount or right out of your voltage regulator if you are doing a hood mount.
 

rigrat

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Did a hood mount, so the wires are right where the headlight wires are located. Would like to use one of the headlight wires if it will work ok. Are the headlights AC and the fuel pump DC??? Kosos are for a DC setup. Thanks.
 

cat pride 2009

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Hey i am going to be installing my aem a/f gauge i was told the only place for dc power on my m1000 is my back up beeper
 

Modman

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I think most the newer cats have a rectifier installed from the factory but easiest way to do would be to measure the voltage at the headlight. Yes the KOSO gauges need to be run on DC and KOSO was supposed to start supplying rectifiers with their kits...... Be carfeul with the headlight voltage, the KOSO gauges do not like to be overvoltaged (Regardless of what KOSO themselves tell you!!!) - I'm speaking from experience here. You will know if its overvoltaged when you run the sled, gauge will work fine at idle, once you rev it up, after a few minutes the gauge will go blank. Backlighting colour will still be there but you will not see any #'s on the display. Your max readings will also go all funny, first time mine did this, the max readings got screwy and the gauge told me I hit 2400 degrees!!:d LOL

I wired mine into the handwarmers and its all good now. If you need a rectifier, you can go to any electronics supply store and ask for a "Bridge Rectifier" for converting AC to DC. Most come in 250V to 500V. If you can't find one let me know and I will send you a couple. They are about $3 here at B&E Electronics in Calgary, and I have a couple spares I could send you. Radio Shack has them I think as well.
 

cat pride 2009

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Hey there is dc power going to your handwarmer so im guessing you would have to tie in before it goes to the switch
 

Modman

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Hey there is dc power going to your handwarmer so im guessing you would have to tie in before it goes to the switch

Yes you could tie into the DC power wire before the handwarmer switch (if its DC at the handwarmers), if your handwarmers are AC, then still tie into the AC power wire before the handwarmer switch, but put the rectifier after the tie-in on the gauge power wire (not on the handwarmer power wire) or if you still want to do the headlight power wire and its AC, just wire in the rectifier to the low power wire and run the headlight on low.

I'm in the same boat as rigrat and do not run a headlight, so I had to run from the handwarmers to keep it from overvoltaging off the headlight wire. You can also tie into power from the lights for the stock gauges, then just wire the rectifier in between the power source (stock gauge lights) and the aem gauge. The rectifiers are easy, two wires in, two wires out - one positive, one negative. Super easy to wire and can put them anywhere, they are about 1" square.


Does the AEM gauge have the 2 stroke adapter? How does that one work?
 

rigrat

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OK. So i still need a little help. The wiring for my headlights are still in place and i would like to use one of them as a power source for the kosos. I have no problem using the low beam wire and a rectifier but just wanted to make sure that the headlights are AC and the rectifier will convert it to DC. How much headlight voltage will be ok? Thanks again.
 

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Modman

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OK. So i still need a little help. The wiring for my headlights are still in place and i would like to use one of them as a power source for the kosos. I have no problem using the low beam wire and a rectifier but just wanted to make sure that the headlights are AC and the rectifier will convert it to DC. How much headlight voltage will be ok? Thanks again.

I don't know what your headlight voltage is on the low setting, I'm sure it will be fine though. I have no idea if the headlight is AC or DC, you're going to have to test it.
 

05765scott

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There is dc power on the left side of the steering post under the alumium plate. You might have to remove the plate to
find it the plug is blue pink I think can't remember been a while. The plug is
a two terminal with another plug dummy
pluged into it. The dummy plug only has one wire attched to it. This plug is the Accessory outlet power and yes it's 12 volt dc it works
I used this outlet for my koso why's on
a 08m1000 I Had till someone stole it
 

kraftymike

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OK. So i still need a little help. The wiring for my headlights are still in place and i would like to use one of them as a power source for the kosos. I have no problem using the low beam wire and a rectifier but just wanted to make sure that the headlights are AC and the rectifier will convert it to DC. How much headlight voltage will be ok? Thanks again.

You are making this unnecessarily complicated.
 

rigrat

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Ran the wiring to the accessory plug behind the steering post. I was going to use a rectifier with the headlight wires but the AC mechanic that i deal with has seen a lot of problems doing it this way. The AC mechanic said he has had tried many ways of hooking up accessories on these sleds and says the accessory plug is by far the best most trouble free option. Thanks everyone for the input. Just wanted to make sure it is right the first time KRAFTYMIKE.
 

kraftymike

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Glad you got it figured out. My concern was with the rectifier method you were trying. The AC voltage that comes off your stator and feeds your headlights is a varying AC source which may range from about 8v to 15v as your RPM cycles. This is why your head lights get brighter as you rev your motor. A rectifier will convert the AC to DC but will not do anything to regulate the voltage spikes and troughs. Headlights are a resistive load which are much more forgiving to over/under voltage conditions, but linear loads such as electronic gauges generaly don't last very long. This is why your mechanic and I suggested you to tie into your electrical system on the load side of your voltage regulator. The accessory plug will work great. Glad I could help. ;)
 

cat pride 2009

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Hey guys i just installed my aem guage it was soo simple i got my power from my back up beeper thee is lots of room to work easy install
 

Modman

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Glad you got it figured out. My concern was with the rectifier method you were trying. The AC voltage that comes off your stator and feeds your headlights is a varying AC source which may range from about 8v to 15v as your RPM cycles. This is why your head lights get brighter as you rev your motor. A rectifier will convert the AC to DC but will not do anything to regulate the voltage spikes and troughs. Headlights are a resistive load which are much more forgiving to over/under voltage conditions, but linear loads such as electronic gauges generaly don't last very long. This is why your mechanic and I suggested you to tie into your electrical system on the load side of your voltage regulator. The accessory plug will work great. Glad I could help. ;)

Have had one Koso EGT running for three seasons now hooked into a rectifier and another for one season, not one hiccup and they've never missed a beat. The koso gauges will work at really low voltages (haven't tested but probably 3-4V), so I think that the low voltage oscillations in the AC current do not affect these gauges as much as some of the others (like Digatrons/Avengers, etc). If you tie into the stock gauge lighting circuit, or back up beeper, you are on the voltage regulated side of the circuit, so it doesn't matter anyway. If you really want to get into it, you can build your own voltage regulator (schematic below) for the gauge.

Happy Holidays Everyone!! :)
 

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rigrat

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Build my own regulator LOL, i wish i was that good with electronics!;):beer::beer:
 

Modman

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Build my own regulator LOL, i wish i was that good with electronics!;):beer::beer:

Actually its really simple and the regulator is already built, you just have to wire it in with a capacitor. Seriously that schematic above is about a 30 min build for anyone that can use a soldering gun. It takes longer to buy the parts than it does to build it.
 

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just finished hooking up aem a/f guage.tried to hook up racepak3 and a/f to wire behind plate found out not enough juice(racepak worked but a/f didnt)left racepak wired to acc. and stole the backup beeper power wire(killed two birds with one stone lol,located on right side by foot well)works great.09 m1000 sp.hope this helps.
 
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