Heres my thoughts on the belt drive.

[007sevens]

except a lubricated chain drive. aluminum is the best dissipating material for heat. so having aluminum housing thats usually covered in snow allows that fluid and chain to always be cold. you can drain the fluid on an XM after riding the piss out of it and the fluid and chain will still be cold. i dont know what this means but i figured id mention it LOL

It means that the doo is an exceptional machine. first designed by NASA for mars travel and adapted for snow travel.

 

[maxwell]

It means that the doo is an exceptional machine. first designed by NASA for mars travel and adapted for snow travel.

that applies to any chain driven snow machine....

 

[Great Pumpkin]

So true. But if you find that the belt drive is getting hot to the touch one better reset belt or change bearings cause something is wrong. Dump question. Probably cutting hairs here lol. Isn't there some kind of fancy para something or other for drag created from moving through cold viscous fluids and losses created?

 

[teeroy]

So true. But if you find that the belt drive is getting hot to the touch one better reset belt or change bearings cause something is wrong. Dump question. Probably cutting hairs here lol. Isn't there some kind of fancy para something or other for drag created from moving through cold viscous fluids and losses created?

parasitic drag...I wouldn't think the chaincase oil is a static pool, it's being constantly pulled up the chain and flung around. I think they take less than half a litre to the check hole

 

[Great Pumpkin]

Like i said cutting hairs

 

[teeroy]

or splitting hairs, whatever works lol

 

[kennyblatz]

a. who cares about the drag of a belt drive or a chain. its turning a track possably the most inefficent motorized thing i can think of.

b. if it takes 700hp to turn a belt then how much hp do the rmk pros really have to turn the tiny drive belt and the 15" wide 163" belt thats on the back of the thing..... thats like 30 more dragsters holy the rmk pros have close to 15000hp mind = blown

 

[Deano670]

Spend the same money it costs to purchase,install and re clutch the sled for a belt drive on say lightening up your engines rotating assembly or on lighter track and jackshafts I believe your gains would be much more noticeable. The link between you track and your clutches needs to be a consistent, accurate signal. IMO its just not there with a piece of rubber. Gates has incorporated carbon fibre into their new belts making them stronger and lighter, maybe camoplast could do the same with their tracks then we could shed some real rotating mass without turning our tracks into cheese graters lol

Deano

MAD MOTORSPORTS

 

[Caper11]

I just put a beltdrive on my sled so I'll give a honest review after this weekend. I'm not expecting to see any gain so I'm being unbiased till I get some miles on it. Cody brochers has one installed on his sled with a 3" and has about 1500 miles on it so far, and his feedback on it was very positive.
From my experience with belt drives at work they are more efficient.



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[Caper11]

except a lubricated chain drive. aluminum is the best dissipating material for heat. so having aluminum housing thats usually covered in snow allows that fluid and chain to always be cold. you can drain the fluid on an XM after riding the piss out of it and the fluid and chain will still be cold. i dont know what this means but i figured id mention it LOL

Than there would be more parasitic drag with cold oil over warm, "viscosity is the resistance to flow." And gear oil flows slow at room temp.
The beltdrive belt is set very loose, way looser than the chain. Not only is aluminum very good at dissipating heat but it's very good at adsorbing it at the same time, and has a higher coefficient of expansion over carbon steel, therefor the loose belt at room temp. But these theory's remain to be seen myself I think the subtle differences will cancel each other out, but like I said I'll see after tomorrow.


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[POWDERSLUT]

cant wait to here your review,sounds like u got it set up right ,nice n loose..

 

[kakwa climber]

I have a c3 on my 880 with a 3" 174 track. I have 600 miles on it and it has been awesome. I have another 860 with a 3" 174 track The 860 is not even close. Does it work I'm not sure but seems too

 

[POWDERSLUT]

its true, kakwa climber its true

 

[YamaDooPolCat]

So I watched the CMXDX video and this is what I believe. I think they tightened up the chain on the Dragon so it would have a massive load on the drill. My thoughts on a belt drive are this. If a top fuel dragster blower needs 700 hp just to turn the blower that spells inefficient to me. Is there something im missing? If there is let me know. There have been other tests done to prove the belt drive on a sled is inefficient.

Put a chain drive on the blower and it will suck up 800 hp.
I put Kobza's belt drive on my stock 800XM and I had to take out the 68 gram weights and install 70 gram weights.
The same increase in weights would be needed if I had installed the 860 or 880 kit, so the net effect is the sled thinks it just gained another 10 or 15 hp, just because of the change from chain to belt drive.

 

[YamaDooPolCat]

What about the fact a belt drive Needs extremely high tension while a chain is basically finger tight. I'm not a doctor but maybe it's a factor


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The Kobza drive drive on my 2013 XM is set for 1/4" deflective when pushed in with very little effort. It's loose.

 

[Caper11]

cant wait to here your review,sounds like u got it set up right ,nice n loose..

Well I got 120 miles on the tki drive with no issues at all! I only had to adjust the belt tension once. Does it work? yep works very nice. I used c3's adjustment procedure over tki's because it was way more detailed giving cold and warm deflections for the gates belt, which is set very loose and tightens up when warm, never skipped a tooth. Lots of that bloody blue belt dust but I was warned that would happen anyway, and cleans up easy with a air gun.
Things I noticed were the belt drive is a lot smoother than the chain, I have alot less vibration in the running boards. Track speed and rpm spool up a little quicker making the sled more responsive. Gearing changes are very quick and easy after the can cools a bit. I am pulling more pinweight than I was before, even before the gearing change, went from pulling 17.5g on clicker 3 in 1.5-2ft of pow to pulling 18.1g on clicker 4 in 3-3.5 ft of pow.


I started out with 2.42 and now have 2.52. Gearing change had nothing to do with the belt drives performance, I've been wanting to try 2.52 all season due to the heavy deep snow we have been getting. I like the 2.52 gearing better.

At the end of the day I'm on the fence about the belt drive A loss of over 3lbs of rotating mass makes it a pretty pricy mod for what you pay and get. I didn't expect much from the beltdrive to begin with


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