Help: Riding Style for breaking in Engine?

[Modman]

After a motor rebuild it is good to heat "cycle" your engine to ensure that all air bubbles etc are worked out of the oil/cooling systems, there are no leaks, etc - this I could see doing a couple times but realistically probably needs to done for about 5-10 mins. You will "heat cycle" metal components in your engine folks, not idling in the garage though! Aluminum alloys begin to melt at 1340 degrees F - anyone know how hot a 2 stroke runs? Not uncommon to see 1350 on my EGT on a steady pull, not very far off the melting point. Those temps go up and down like that all day - this is heat cycling. Once you get them above a certain temp, the molecular structure will change somewhat - same premise as cryogenically treating your pistons. You are not "heat strengthening" them, but you are "conditioning" them in a sense. I don't think its a good idea to warm it up for 3 hrs, but a little bit more warm up in garage for 10-15 mins, then a good warm up in the parking lot and a normal trail ride with lots of throttle variation has never hurt for a break-in on any motor I have built, need some good load on it to seat the rings - usually not an issue with mountains trails climbing the hill right from the parking lot. As many have said - After that, ride it like you stole it!

 

[imdoo'n]

After a motor rebuild it is good to heat "cycle" your engine to ensure that all air bubbles etc are worked out of the oil/cooling systems, there are no leaks, etc - this I could see doing a couple times but realistically probably needs to done for about 5-10 mins. You will "heat cycle" metal components in your engine folks, not idling in the garage though! Aluminum alloys begin to melt at 1340 degrees F - anyone know how hot a 2 stroke runs? Not uncommon to see 1350 on my EGT on a steady pull, not very far off the melting point. Those temps go up and down like that all day - this is heat cycling. Once you get them above a certain temp, the molecular structure will change somewhat - same premise as cryogenically treating your pistons. You are not "heat strengthening" them, but you are "conditioning" them in a sense. I don't think its a good idea to warm it up for 3 hrs, but a little bit more warm up in garage for 10-15 mins, then a good warm up in the parking lot and a normal trail ride with lots of throttle variation has never hurt for a break-in on any motor I have built, need some good load on it to seat the rings - usually not an issue with mountains trails climbing the hill right from the parking lot. As many have said - After that, ride it like you stole it!

now bart, you shittin me? aluminum alloys melt at 1340 and your running 1350 hmme i think i'm smellin melt down, sorry very few motors run in that heat range, i ran 1250 in my mxz and that was white. close to bad day. mod motors may see these temps but very few stock motors, and should have the parts to put up with these temps. didn't think that old cat could get that hot

 

[Pwdrh0r]

i havent read these recent posts but ive had numerous dirtbikes and quads as a child till now and about 4 sleds.. Every time i get something new a dont hold back. Ride it the way you would on the average day. I never do anything with oil as you said before, i feel that your motor should get used to the way its going to be ridden. Never had problems with motors ever..

 

[Modman]

now bart, you shittin me? aluminum alloys melt at 1340 and your running 1350 hmme i think i'm smellin melt down, sorry very few motors run in that heat range, i ran 1250 in my mxz and that was white. close to bad day. mod motors may see these temps but very few stock motors, and should have the parts to put up with these temps. didn't think that old cat could get that hot

Actually the Doo runs leaner than the Cat, can run it leaner because of the Av gas helping keep the combustion temps down...... 1250 is not even hot yet, don't be such a pussy. "close" only counts in horseshoes and hand grenades. The reason I can run 1350 is because that is the probe temp, piston temp is lower than that as the flame is hotter in the pipe, piston temp is probably 1200ish? maybe.. so not that close to melting yet. Yes, stock motors can handle the heat, nothing different in pistons and cylinders from Mod to stock unless they are coated pistons, otherwise they are just bigger. Often times the bigger bores in mod motors have harder times cooling the pistons because the contact patch on the piston wall where the combustion heat dissipates to the cylinder is farther away, meaning the heat dissipation may not work as well on larger bores compared to smaller (similar piston designs presumed). Bigger pistons mean more force on the crank. These are the usual suspects in a mod motor for breakage where the stocker was not designed to handle it IMO.

 

[kenvb]

my Late old friend Gundy ( Dale Gunderson) would start his sleds with the rad cap off,when the antifreeze was warm,it was ready to ride.Warm em up first..I have done that since Dale started it.

 

[QuintinG]

I read my owners manual for my etec before I took it out and under the "break in procedure" section it said nothing about premixing the first tank. Is this not needed on these sleds or is it one of those old tricks that the manufacturer doesn't tell you about?

 

[Pwdrh0r]

Just ride the bitch like you stole it!

 

[Brap]

I read my owners manual for my etec before I took it out and under the "break in procedure" section it said nothing about premixing the first tank. Is this not needed on these sleds or is it one of those old tricks that the manufacturer doesn't tell you about?

not required because the oil pump actually works on a skidoo from the factory unlike the new proclimb. also on the etec motor the computer automatically adjusts the oil ratio for breakin. it will adjust it again once its broken in. you will notice it will use much less oil after 3 or 4 tanks of fuel