hey guys just installed a slp pipe kit on my sled, took it for a ride this morning and the pipe is touching the plastic air intake on the in side of the hood got it so hot it was starting to melt, is a whack load of heat tape gonna be enough to prevent any further issues or do i have to do something else thanks shawn
heat tape
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steven2120
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im curious about this as well, the same thing happened to me yesterday...i already put on heat tape to cover it up, but that didnt work for long...just too hot
HiLlClImB911
Active VIP Member
My brother has heat tape on his M8 hood air intake where the pipes touch, one layer wasnt enough (was making a mark but not melting) so last trip we added a few extra layers of it and seemed good after the day of riding.
This simple, yet effective, item addresses MANY different concerns/issues with the M Series Sleds.
First, a simple, but commonly over-looked, fact... HEAT RISES!! Try entering your attic in the Summer.. while your A/C is busy keeping your living area nice and cool, your attic is 115+ degrees... WHY.. Because head ALWAYS rises..
Same with your sled's engine compartment... You can vent the sides and lower hood until you have little hood left but the heat will always rise to the highest point. In order to RID your engine compartment of the deadly, Horse-Power robbing heat, you MUST provide an outlet at the HIGH point of your engine area. This lift provides just that.
By installing this lift, your hood will be propped up a few inches under the instrument gauge and allow the engine compartment's hot air to escape. This keeps your clutches cooler and also your entire engine.
BONUSES features are also associated with this little item. We have found that with this lift installed, that the streaming hot air will GREATLY aid in keeping your goggles from icing up, as well as, your instrument gauge. Another added bonus is that it actually keeps your hands and body warmer as well.. It all makes sense when you feel the heat pouring out from under your hood.
Another bonus is that it adds some much needed clearances to accommodate some of the aftermarket pipes that like to run and melt your hood vents and other under-hood items.
So, all in all, this little deal will provide a number of services and keep you more comfortable in the process..
Cost is $40.00 U.S. from Kelsey @ RK Teck
I put one of these on my 2010 CF8 LE. The hood insulation was contacting the pipe. It primarly vents heat. When mounted on the firewall, it gives you 2 height adjustments. The highest opens your hood about 1". I find I can feel the heat of the engine hitting me and my goggles rarely fog!
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scrapmaster
Active member
just wondering where you guys are findin your tape? bought a pipe 2nd hand so it didnt come with any
Bartle & Gibson
QMAO
Active VIP Member
Home hardware has some stick on heat insulation. it is 1/8 " thick and comes in a roll about 12" wide. It is a solid foam rubber with foil on one side.
I used it on the inside of my quad plastics where the exhaust was within 1" of the plastic and it worked very well.
Hope this helps.
I used it on the inside of my quad plastics where the exhaust was within 1" of the plastic and it worked very well.
Hope this helps.
Shredder
Active VIP Member
You can heat up the plastic intake with a heat gun and push it in to give it clearance for the pipe. Then heat tape it.
markoo
Active VIP Member
I don't think the pipe should melt any thing. Is your y pipe on upside down?
glengine
Active VIP Member
You must have the y-pipe on upside down. it has a slight angle to it. It should angle down. I just looked at one in the shop that has had an slp exhaust system on it for 2.5 years and there is no extra heat tape on the stock air intake and it hasn't melted anywhere or been touchin it at all. And he hasn't done anything to raise the hood or anything either.
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glengine
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Yah it's normal to have to bend the heat sheild down. But it's strange why some seem to rub on the intake.
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steven2120
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You can heat up the plastic intake with a heat gun and push it in to give it clearance for the pipe. Then heat tape it.
Thanks for the tip Shredder, ill have to give that a try before i go for my next ride
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glengine
Active VIP Member
A good tip for yah is to take your whole air intake system off and heat tape the whole thing anyways. I do this so that it stays as cool as possible and wont heat up air intake charge nearly as much, if you look the headlights are like 1/2" from intake and even they heat it up. Little things can make a good difference. The colder the air goin in the more power you make.
Shredder
Active VIP Member
Make sure you use an oven mitt, or something with alot of heat protection when you are molding the intake. It needs to be fawkin' HOT to get it shaped properly. Then after you get it reformed quickly get a cloth soaked in cold water on it so it holds it's new shape.
Bulldog Racing
Active member
In your pictures, it looks like the weld-on tag / serial number is visible on your "Y" pipe. If it's the same as a 1000, you have your "Y" pipe upside down. Know this from experience...pipe was just touching the hood. Took it all apart and switched it, now lots of clearance. The little notch on the doughnut has to be facing down on the 1000 to make things fit properly.
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the y pipe is correctly installed the notch on the y pipe and the pipe line up if the y pipe was up side down they would not line up, i put a whack load of heat tape on it today and took it for a good long rip tonite and everything looks good so far thanks shawn
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