Grizz Rear Diff

[jazzman]

Hey guys I have a 09 700 grizz the rear diff seems to be tilted to the right and the left side has been eating up cv joints. I picked up some turner axles and the size increase made it look even more tilted. The boot on the left is almost touching the upper a arm. All bolts are tight and I can not see anything bent or out of place. Any one see anything like this.

 

[AreWeThereYet]

Hey guys I have a 09 700 grizz the rear diff seems to be tilted to the right and the left side has been eating up cv joints. I picked up some turner axles and the size increase made it look even more tilted. The boot on the left is almost touching the upper a arm. All bolts are tight and I can not see anything bent or out of place. Any one see anything like this.

Can you post a picture cause it almost sounds like the mounting plate is bent.

 

[jazzman]

Here are a few picks of the diff and parts I found a bent bottom of the plate like you said and the bolt hole is oblong I can move the diff up and down about 3/4's of an inch when the bolt is backed off. But it was tight. I removed the diff and built up the holes so the bolt was level. The base is double plated, and made it near impossible to straighten the plate. But it looks better now.

 

[Gunny]

This is probably too late, but maybe something to think about if you get your rear diff squared up.

A while back I made an "Upper Diff Support" becasue I didn't like the way the diff was bolted in. Here's some pics ... sorry, they're the best I have.

I know it may not be pretty, but it works.

 

[jazzman]

thanks man that looks better, there is not a whole bunch holding that rear diff square. After some heating and beating and fixing the holes up were good to go. I will get fabing soon.

 

[Gunny]

thanks man that looks better, there is not a whole bunch holding that rear diff square. After some heating and beating and fixing the holes up were good to go. I will get fabing soon.

Here's few things I did to make sure the support was "tight" & and wasn't pulling the diff inboard.

The piece of angle bolted to the diff - I had to round the "Angle Edge" so it would rotate in & down, snug against the diff.

Then as I added the angles bolted to the frame cross-members - I first drilled the holes for the ubolts, I then bolted the angle to the diff, I then put the two angle supports up against the diff piece & tack welded those inplace.

Then I took those parts out & welded them up.

I then got the two angle iron supports on the left side drilled up for the ubolts, then the flat piece I laid across the top of the frame, moved the angle iron supports up against the flat piece. I then cut an angle piece of angle iron to go between the two pieces with the ubolts, up tight against the flat piece, & up against the frame. I then tack welded those pieces together. (it wasn't easy)

I then put the diff support parts back in & bolted it up. Then the left side parts back in, making sure the flat piece was laying on the crossmember above the diff bolts. Bolted up the ubolts.

I know this is maybe not the best looking, but then I cut a piece to fill the space between the diff support angle & the flat piece. Tack welded that up & then carefully "pried" everything back out.

I then welded everything up, finished all the rough edges, etc. ... added some paint, & pried it back into place & bolted it up.

Anyway, hope you can sorta understand what I did & it should give you an idea should you decide to go another route.

Good Luck ....

 

[grizzlydave]

I had a similar problem on my 660, kept snapping axles shaft and finally a rear drive shaft, all the tabs that held the diff onto the frame tore off and the diffs was moving around. I re-centered the diff, welded the brackets back on and built a axillary bracket very similar to the one in the picture's above and have had no problems since.