csharko
Active member
I would add oil to the tank, does messing with that screw with marking paint on it void warranty?
Got my 2014
- Thread starter Stamz92
- Start date
sledneck_03
Active VIP Member
if you got a ****ty dealer and some how polaris sees that the oil screw is turned in in the pictures they send. They are looking for stuff like chips or a really dirty motor but super clean factory pipe like they switched their aftermarket one out to bring it in, a friend of mine was denied warranty cause polaris seen in picture velcro on his airbox for his power commander even though he removed the chip, polaris knew exactly what it was.
summitbound
Active VIP Member
sledneck_03
Active VIP Member
I found a local dealer that sells that. Prairie rec out of prince albert
SavageCanuck
Active VIP Member
No OEM acc is ever worth msrp, but its a nice size bag with reasonable storage space.I hated the old Polaris shovel bag,just too small and everything always got wet.
Barry Barton
Active VIP Member
If I was u I would install a stainless steel one they only weigh 7 grams more but u don't have to worry about it breaking. just my 2 cents
sledneck_03
Active VIP Member
First silver ive seen. Looks great
Braddock54
Active VIP Member
Looks rad meens. Love the black rails.
minnow10
Active member
My 2014 retro LE w/ES
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one thing i didn't get yet.
I did talk to a dealer couple of days ago (Cycle works). of course he said ONLY GOLD VES and bla-bla-bla, all that BS, and stupidity we always hear from them
in Edmonton I had a chat with couple of guys from Millennium, Vossner, BikePerformance, etc
Most of them agreed that BRANDED OIL is the worst one. Some guys suggested to use mineral, others redline, no one said - use Polaris oil. I am not sure about RedLine, but using a mineral oil makes a lot of sense to me. Mineral oil is actually a real oil something we been using for years in our old sleds, the new syntetic **** -nobody really knows its contents.
Main argument- 10 years ago sleds were strong and running for 15k+ without any major issues. In our days 3k and dealer already suggest to change piston rings?
Dealer doesn't even understand that IF rings already worn out, then cylinder's walls also not in a perfect shape, because of the friction between rings and cylinder's walls.
Shovelking780
Active member
Somebody should actually take a sample from these oils and send them to an oil analysis lab then one could say which one was better or not. If I had the samples I could probably send them out through my work but I'm not investing in all the oils.
cnelson6
Active VIP Member
I agree there is no problem with mineral oil. But one thing that might be slightly overlooked is sleds of today are running a ton more power and getting loaded up more cause tracks are coming stock with what guys would have starched it to back in the day with their mod sleds. I'm sure they could get a ton more miles out of their sleds all they would need to do is knock back the power. But also the alloys and way things are made today are made to lighter specs to help increase the power and get rotating mass down. The reason synthetics are recommended is because they are more stable in their consistency at lower temps.
About Two Stroke Oils and Premix
here is a good article about which oil should be used in two-stroke engines, personally I've learnt something.....particularly i discovered that there is no synthetic or mineral oil exist in nature.
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Theres a lot more to the oil than you guys think. The better oils use a better base stock, amongst more detergents etc. Not sure I agree with statements about branded oil being the worst, you get what you pay for but a lot of them come from the same place, just are made differently. There is no "magic" potion in this stuff, its all starts out generically the same.
My experience has been that dealers will recommend what is covered for warranty. A lot of issues we see in motors today is because they are stressed. They are running at high output, with the minimal amount of oil required to operate and still meet emissions standards. The tolerances are tighter and the materials are thinner to promote faster heat transfer. The motors are running hotter than ever to compete with emissions standards (and save weight and costs to some degree I'm sure). It used to be when the jugs were iron and the pistons had more weight, it was more of a heat sink. In efforts to lighten the rotating mass in engines and build higher RPM motors, the need for pistons and rings to be able to transfer heat out faster is critical. Its not all bad, these changes have resulted in faster revving motors, etc, but oil has been reduced or stayed the same for emissions reasons. An oil needs to be selected to withstand these operating conditions and to be able to provide the same protection while being ever present in smaller amounts. That's what its all about, don't think for a minute that someone cares if you do a shortblock every 3000 kms, if they don't meet the emissions tests they won't be selling any sleds.
A well lubed motor is a happy motor. You want oil that sticks around on the parts and doesn't wash or burn away completely, from either the formulation or the fact there is very little of it there in the first place. If its not there....its not able to do its job. Saving $20 a season isn't worth it by cutting oil use. Always funny to see comments here about a smoky sled, when I know for a fact some of these same guys have no issues with rollin' the coal in their diesel all the way to the staging area. Who cares about a little 2 stroke smoke after that? Keep it well lubed and it will be happy happy. So long as the plugs aren't fouling, IMO its getting just enough.
I've always wanted to do a poll and see if there is a direct correlation to the guys that get 3000 kms out of a motor, and the guys that get 6,000, and who uses more oil. You need to understand what your motor is doing before messing with the oil. Some motors that burn hot will need more ash on the piston domes to keep cool and therefore should maybe run a mineral, others with tighter tolerances and clearances should maybe run a synthetic. Operating temp, RPM, type of fuel (some oils blend better with av gas/race fuel than others)....the list goes on. Cutting back or switching the oil in a motor that needs the oil to be around in certain conditions, spells disaster.
My experience has been that dealers will recommend what is covered for warranty. A lot of issues we see in motors today is because they are stressed. They are running at high output, with the minimal amount of oil required to operate and still meet emissions standards. The tolerances are tighter and the materials are thinner to promote faster heat transfer. The motors are running hotter than ever to compete with emissions standards (and save weight and costs to some degree I'm sure). It used to be when the jugs were iron and the pistons had more weight, it was more of a heat sink. In efforts to lighten the rotating mass in engines and build higher RPM motors, the need for pistons and rings to be able to transfer heat out faster is critical. Its not all bad, these changes have resulted in faster revving motors, etc, but oil has been reduced or stayed the same for emissions reasons. An oil needs to be selected to withstand these operating conditions and to be able to provide the same protection while being ever present in smaller amounts. That's what its all about, don't think for a minute that someone cares if you do a shortblock every 3000 kms, if they don't meet the emissions tests they won't be selling any sleds.
A well lubed motor is a happy motor. You want oil that sticks around on the parts and doesn't wash or burn away completely, from either the formulation or the fact there is very little of it there in the first place. If its not there....its not able to do its job. Saving $20 a season isn't worth it by cutting oil use. Always funny to see comments here about a smoky sled, when I know for a fact some of these same guys have no issues with rollin' the coal in their diesel all the way to the staging area. Who cares about a little 2 stroke smoke after that? Keep it well lubed and it will be happy happy. So long as the plugs aren't fouling, IMO its getting just enough.
I've always wanted to do a poll and see if there is a direct correlation to the guys that get 3000 kms out of a motor, and the guys that get 6,000, and who uses more oil. You need to understand what your motor is doing before messing with the oil. Some motors that burn hot will need more ash on the piston domes to keep cool and therefore should maybe run a mineral, others with tighter tolerances and clearances should maybe run a synthetic. Operating temp, RPM, type of fuel (some oils blend better with av gas/race fuel than others)....the list goes on. Cutting back or switching the oil in a motor that needs the oil to be around in certain conditions, spells disaster.
Cat401
Active VIP Member
Brought ours home today.......bring on the snow!
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