Ford truck 4/4 problems

09 arctic cat m8

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Hey fellas well my 2011 ford 250 I think the 4/4 has quit working automatic when I switch it in the can with hubs in auto it says it's in 4/4 but it isn't when you drive it, so the questions are, is it a huge fix, a wrech did come up saying 4/4 problem, but now it goes into 4/4 but doesn't work, so my question is can I put in lock on the Hub as still drive in 2wd and switch it in the cab and have 4:4 with out hurting it driving at Hiway speeds in 2wd, I don't get why ford isn't like other trucks where you just turn it to 4:4 and your good to go
 

ABMax24

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You can just leave the hubs locked but fuel economy suffers because the front axle and driveshaft are still rotating, being the reason they unlock anyway. IIRC the hubs are controlled by a vacuum pump that locks the hubs in, so I would suggest looking for a vacuum leak or the pump might be faulty. Ford still does this because in the event that the hubs fail to lock automatically you can manually lock them and still have 4x4 as in your case, if it was a GM or Dodge you would be SOL. If the hubs are locked in manual mode and there is still no 4x4 then it is problem with the transfer case shifting, either way I would have it looked at.
 

77Crash77

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Have you had front end work done? If the hubs aren't put together properly, they won't have vacuum. And can't lock.


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Carrots

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Check for vacuum leaks, and on each hub look where the vacuum hose goes into the hub, if one side is pulled out it won't go into 4x4.
 

PS94

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Put the heater controls on dash or floor, with the blower on. Then attempt a 4x4 shift. If the air goes up to defrost, it's a vacuum loss issue...If your heater is stuck on defrost, it's probably a pump..
 

Summitric

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Put the heater controls on dash or floor, with the blower on. Then attempt a 4x4 shift. If the air goes up to defrost, it's a vacuum loss issue...If your heater is stuck on defrost, it's probably a pump..

Or a fuse or vacuum switch or wiring problem..... Good test to try


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cokecrazed007

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I always found that if the temp went below - 30 the auto hubs would not work and I would have to use the manual hubs. When it would warm up they would work fine.
 

Summitric

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I always found that if the temp went below - 30 the auto hubs would not work and I would have to use the manual hubs. When it would warm up they would work fine.

U need to replace the vacuum hub seals.... Very common problem when very cold


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09 arctic cat m8

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Thanks for all the replies fellas, how much to replace!? And will power train warranty cover it, cause I've got that till 120,000 and bumper to bumper till 55,000 but it's over now, power train is still good to go but is that included in power train!? Thanks guys
 

spuds

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Not covered by power train warranty


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sorry to hijack this thread, but could you replace the hub actuator with an electric solenoid similar to what we did with the 90's chevs Ric?
 

ZRrrr

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Listen to your vacuum pump. Turn on the key without starting and listen to the pump. It should build vacuum and shut off within about 45 seconds. If it keeps on pumping you likely have a leak. Or as another poster said, the heater will default to defrost if you have an air leak. Common leak points are the hoses at the hubs and the little plastic connectors at joints and 90's. If you do not have a noticeable leak, the most common issue is the PVH (pulse vacuum hub) solenoid that controls air to the locking hubs. Dealers keep the solenoids in stock for this very common issue. Takes about 5 minutes to change and costs somewhere around $140 list. It's located on top of the fan shroud, passenger side. Myself and couple neighbours been there, done that.
 

HotShotHarry

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Thanks ZRrrr- I have this same issue. Now I know what to look for. Thanks to the original poster also.
 

youngpolarisguy

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Thanks to everyone who replied!!!
just a heads up those seals in the front hubs are very common on the 2011 and up super duty's but if you own a diesel the seals are covered under warrenty till 160 000km and on gas jobs to 100 000km, both 5 years.
 
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