SHREK1...not sure what you are referring to, but I build trucks like this for a living - and most people aren't willing to spend the money to do it right (clocking ring on the t-case, dual CV drive shafts, re-fabricated tranny crossmember to allow clearance of front driveshaft, larger brake rotors, stainless braided brake lines, x-over steering...and the list goes on) Buying a 10" FabCrap and bolting it on doesn't mean that the truck is safe and still within geometrical specs. You need to do a lot to a tuck lifted with this much height to make it work safely and properly...and most aren't aware, nor are they willing to spend the $$. At my shop if someone doesn't want to do it right...I don't do it at all.
For sure, but there is a fine line of what people "think" is needed and what really is. I never touched my t-case or driveshafts. Rear is perfectly fine with tapered block, front is pretty steep, clocking is a good idea. But i'd rather have free spin hubs instead of clocking it. Mile of clearance to tranny-crossmember. If it's a auto, a brake upgrade is a good idea but the stock brakes are a joke to begin with. Brake lines are a nice "bling" factor but that's it, not needed at 8".
Problem is, to many shops just try to sell you more stuff. But I do get where your coming from and some people try to cheap out on essentials.
My biggest issue at that height was an alignment and clearance issues, takes a LOT of work to get everything working right. But I learned a regular alignment shop shouldn't go near a lifted truck, they have NO idea what they are doing.