Floating secondary

[Rotax_Kid]

Had a doodoctor in the past as well. Nicer build than the OEM piece. Worked well and could get close to 1500 miles out of a belt before it measured out of spec. Had a team tied before that and liked the doo floater better as parts were alot easier to come by and cheaper to tune with. Lost no top end compared to the tied. Prob lost 5-6 mph on my best tune with the tied compared to the floater.

 

[young-gun]

Had a doodoctor in the past as well. Nicer build than the OEM piece. Worked well and could get close to 1500 miles out of a belt before it measured out of spec. Had a team tied before that and liked the doo floater better as parts were alot easier to come by and cheaper to tune with. Lost no top end compared to the tied. Prob lost 5-6 mph on my best tune with the tied compared to the floater.

Ya I got 2300 km on 872 (original belt), never changed a belt on that sled.

 

[sick1]

I ran the floater on my 2011 for 2000km was great and took care of the belt issues, Tried it again last year on my 2013 two kits total both broke with in 1 hour, Sheave separated from the hub on both. No warranty from brp either. Now this kit is the crappiest one because you cant go back to stock, lost two separate weekend trips over it. At least with doo doctors kit the stock shaft can be put back in with out changing the brace, bearing and seal, still with both kits you are using the stock sheaves, I stopped the problems with the team tied kit. Cooler belt temps and higher track speeds too.

 

[young-gun]

I thinking doo dr or team. Just haven't heard of any turbo etecs running team, don't want to buy kit and then start buying helix and springs to make it work.

 

[mountainsledmania]

the guys at specialty are saying a team tied secondary is probably the best thing you can do for the summit. Not the rapid reaction one. I had a rapid reaction on my 872 last year and it was ok... but id like to try the other one to see if it true. The upshift and backshift is supposed to be instant due the sheaves not needing rotation to open. So the concept is defiantly there

 

[slededjr]

Have the Doo floater on mine. Problem free, Knock on wood. Even before i put the floater on i've never blown a belt. I'm constantly removing and cleaning the clutches too. over 7000 on the etec now. You'd be surprised how quick they can get dirty inside and start to bind up. Especially the lever pin. I've never blown a belt on any of my doos. Check alignment frequently and clean often. Even blow compressed air into the primary every couple of trips if you don't or can't remove to fully take apart and clean. Turn the primary clutch by hand slowly and you can hear the arms moving 1 by 1. If you hear 1 not clicking around it's sticking. Took apart a brand new summit last year with around 400 km's and two arms were sticking.

 

[sick1]

The team tied is the kit specialty pushes, mountain magic pushes the tss-04 standard Polaris. Be prepared to buy some helixes and springs to get it tuned, Finally seeing 60mph+ track speeds with the turbo.
If you wanna know how the brp floating kit fails just google brp floating secondary failure, theres a few pics on the topic on snow west.

 

[mur190]

While we are on this does anyone have a splined jack shaft? Hollow team preferred

 

[mountainsledmania]

The team tied is the kit specialty pushes, mountain magic pushes the tss-04 standard Polaris. Be prepared to buy some helixes and springs to get it tuned, Finally seeing 60mph+ track speeds with the turbo.
If you wanna know how the brp floating kit fails just google brp floating secondary failure, theres a few pics on the topic on snow west.

do you think its better off staying with the factory qrs and getting a kit like rooster or dynamo then? I know team clutches are expensive with helixes and springs. Also how can a guy check to make sure the alignment on the clutches is within spec?

 

[sick1]

I have the brp floating shaft kit lying around. It will accept the team clutches or the floating kit. I used the team shaft and ditched the brp stuff. If you want it let me know.

 

[sick1]

If your sled doesn't burn belts leave it alone. Just clutch it. Alignment is checked with a half inch by half inch piece of bar stock squished in the secondary sheaves then measured off the primary. 38-42mm is in spec I think.. Feel free to straighten me out if im wrong.

 

[mountainsledmania]

If your sled doesn't burn belts leave it alone. Just clutch it. Alignment is checked with a half inch by half inch piece of bar stock squished in the secondary sheaves then measured off the primary. 38-42mm is in spec I think.. Feel free to straighten me out if im wrong.

So you went with a team clutch, but why just to fix a belt eating problem? I was more looking to get one for the performance/efficiency. and when your talking alignment your referring to getting the team aligned properly correct? I don't think there's any sort of alignment on the factory tra and qrs.. other then maybe engine mounts but if that's an issue there's bigger problems.

 

[sick1]

I went with the team as a last resort, My sled has 7000+km its been around the block a few times. And a few trees lol. I couldn't keep a belt in it so checked alignment found it way off so went to the floater kit, wouldn't stay together under the torque so had no choice. The tied kit once tuned to the primary things improved greatly. More track speed less heat in the clutches, and 800 km from a belt. I can live with that. If I wasn't burning a belt every ride it would still be stock with the normal primary turbo clutching and a shockwave. After all the crap that went with it picked up 5mph track speed. So must be more efficient..

 

[mountainsledmania]

I went with the team as a last resort, My sled has 7000+km its been around the block a few times. And a few trees lol. I couldn't keep a belt in it so checked alignment found it way off so went to the floater kit, wouldn't stay together under the torque so had no choice. The tied kit once tuned to the primary things improved greatly. More track speed less heat in the clutches, and 800 km from a belt. I can live with that. If I wasn't burning a belt every ride it would still be stock with the normal primary turbo clutching and a shockwave. After all the crap that went with it picked up 5mph track speed. So must be more efficient..

Have you ever used a shackwave helix? I was looking at them and was interested but worried that it could fail? I like that you can also use It to get your rps in check and change angles on the fly

 

[sick1]

Yes used a straight angle shockwave. No issues at all. The thing that was nice about the shockwave is you get an idea what secondary angles your sled wants to run at. Then if you wanted to run a dual , quad, progressive, or reverse angle you know what your start and finish should for best performance. I used those angles as a guideline as a start with the team.

 

[skidooguy]

X2 on the dodoctor kit. I have had one on my last two sleds. First mod I make and never had a problem.

 

[chad006]

Just ordered my team tied setup for my aero turbo etec from ken at moutian Magic. Hoping his setup on it will be close to my liking. Had a wreck with my stock secondary otherwise I'd have just ordered doo Dr floating kit and tuned the qrs.

 

[chad006]

I went with the team as a last resort, My sled has 7000+km its been around the block a few times. And a few trees lol. I couldn't keep a belt in it so checked alignment found it way off so went to the floater kit, wouldn't stay together under the torque so had no choice. The tied kit once tuned to the primary things improved greatly. More track speed less heat in the clutches, and 800 km from a belt. I can live with that. If I wasn't burning a belt every ride it would still be stock with the normal primary turbo clutching and a shockwave. After all the crap that went with it picked up 5mph track speed. So must be more efficient..

What're you running for spring/helix setup in yours if you don't mind me asking? I just installed aerochargers spring and ramps into the primary haven't gotten allot of seat time on her yet for tuning purposes other than to setup turbo and fueling. Assuming I'll have to change up primary setup to work with team secondary.