I mean more so like other parts failing. I think i read people were having the charge tube cracking after a tune. Im trying to figure out what i should replace after doing a tune to get my sled to 180hp. i have pretty decent knowledge of turbo systems and getting an additional 20hp equates to roughly 2-3 psi of increased boost. increasing the pressure by 2-3psi should not cause that rubber charge tube to crack.Not tuning it right and starting over from scratch,,, there are lots and lots of things that can wrong...
I would guess that that an additional 2-3 psi is pushing the compressor near the edge of its efficiency and the extra heat + pressure is causing the crack.I mean more so like other parts failing. I think i read people were having the charge tube cracking after a tune. Im trying to figure out what i should replace after doing a tune to get my sled to 180hp. i have pretty decent knowledge of turbo systems and getting an additional 20hp equates to roughly 2-3 psi of increased boost. increasing the pressure by 2-3psi should not cause that rubber charge tube to crack.
My point of the question is, i know alot of people have tuned their factory turbos. if people list the failures they had, the more common ones between people would be where to start. I hear most people are having the best luck with Muptun
Thats fair. But, the new gen 5 is running all the same parts(turbo, intake and charge pipe) as the gen4. All the changes from gen 4 to 5 did not include anything engine/turbo related beside boost pressure and timing.I would guess that that an additional 2-3 psi is pushing the compressor near the edge of its efficiency and the extra heat + pressure is causing the crack.
That's interesting I didn't know that. I would have expected at least revised charge piping to fit the chassis.Thats fair. But, the new gen 5 is running all the same parts(turbo, intake and charge pipe) as the gen4. All the changes from gen 4 to 5 did not include anything engine/turbo related beside boost pressure and timing.
I am wrong. The charge pipe is different. After reading more into it, it says they charge tube is thinner then on the gen4. Thge intake tube is also different but that would be because the whole intake system is different.That's interesting I didn't know that. I would have expected at least revised charge piping to fit the chassis.
i couldn't find the vid but when brp did the gen5 turbo r release, one of the clips had all the chassis/engine changes and i remember something about the cylinder head. maybe it was increased cooling.
What are you tuning with?Having manually tuned mine there are a lot of function you can alter on the stock ECM. if you don’t really know what your changing or its effects then you’ll see posts like this. Furthermore the manufacture of the software constantly is evolving and keep providing updates. Last year there were 3 updates and new abilities for tuning.
So really you need to understand the big picture and be up to date with your software.
Simple cranking boost up without altering the target fueling table will work but not long term. A lot of ‘toons’ out there doing and selling a product like this.
Some change the rpm x acceleration table, bad idea this was really set in place for blowing belts
Timing is another quick one
Removing safeties pre-set
Changing oil consumption
Boost x elevation scaling factor
Bla bla bla, list can go on for a long time.
My advice, if you can afford to fix it, then dont modify it!
I'm curious the software, you are getting access to a lot of tables, scanner is critical.Having manually tuned mine there are a lot of function you can alter on the stock ECM. if you don’t really know what your changing or its effects then you’ll see posts like this. Furthermore the manufacture of the software constantly is evolving and keep providing updates. Last year there were 3 updates and new abilities for tuning.
So really you need to understand the big picture and be up to date with your software.
Simple cranking boost up without altering the target fueling table will work but not long term. A lot of ‘toons’ out there doing and selling a product like this.
Some change the rpm x acceleration table, bad idea this was really set in place for blowing belts
Timing is another quick one
Removing safeties pre-set
Changing oil consumption
Boost x elevation scaling factor
Bla bla bla, list can go on for a long time.
My advice, if you can afford to fix it, then dont modify it!
All I’m doing is taking the sled to Riderz and having the maptun stage 1 installed as well as Joey’s Ibackshift kit with his ramps.What are you tuning with?
That's the critical part that alot of people don't think about. Guys add power with pipes or tunes and have less than desirable results because they run the same clutching components as a stock sled. If that sled is actually making more power the clutching will need to be changed to get that power to the ground. Hopefully that clutching creates enough extra load to make use of the extra 20hp.All I’m doing is taking the sled to Riderz and having the maptun stage 1 installed as well as Joey’s Ibackshift kit with his ramps.