Engine TECH thermostat
- Thread starter ONETON
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oler1234
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I am running one. In my case there was a difference. Most stokeirs just beconsistent with power. As the engine heats up it retatds timing. Sled will run cooler. No re jetting required.
maxwell
Active VIP Member
Thanks always wondered if they worked just had a hard time justifying big bucks on a tiny aluminum block.
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deaner
Active VIP Member
Definitely worth doing. I noticed a big difference when I put mine on. Sled runs WAY more consistent. Used to overheat on the trails before putting it on, not after though.
Edit.......If you keep your eye out you will find the odd used one. I picked mine up for $100 with the thermostat in it.
Edit.......If you keep your eye out you will find the odd used one. I picked mine up for $100 with the thermostat in it.
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takethebounce
Active VIP Member
I have ridden sleds that have the engine tech block. I wouldn't say it pulled any harder for any longer of a time. The heat fade felt in the 800R is felt more in the mid range due to lean jetting than it is a WOT issue and having a large thick single piston ring. On WOT pulls the thermostat is open due to operating temps on almost every pull regardless if it is a HO thermostat or the R thermostat.
Yes the 800R retards performance above 140 degrees, so even with an engine tech thermostat block with the 120 degree thermostat it will continue to get hot the more you ride it at extended WOT pulls.
The system is designed to protect itself. All you are doing is cheating the system a few more degrees. On a trail the thermostat may keep it from running hot, but with a proper snow flap and not runing on hard pack it shouldn't over heat either.
So, does it make a difference? It may, I wouldn't say its a huge improvement, and riding someones sled who is modded that has it is a tough way to judge as their other mods may benefit more from it.
Yes the 800R retards performance above 140 degrees, so even with an engine tech thermostat block with the 120 degree thermostat it will continue to get hot the more you ride it at extended WOT pulls.
The system is designed to protect itself. All you are doing is cheating the system a few more degrees. On a trail the thermostat may keep it from running hot, but with a proper snow flap and not runing on hard pack it shouldn't over heat either.
So, does it make a difference? It may, I wouldn't say its a huge improvement, and riding someones sled who is modded that has it is a tough way to judge as their other mods may benefit more from it.
JoHNI_T
Active VIP Member
what year's? all the R's? I did the engine tech on my 08 but I never tried it before hand. I was told good upgrade for the money and did that with the clucth and track.
Oneton is on a 2010 right? what Track Mark? I cant remember? if its ported ditch that first but I think you have non ported. or heck just buy my etec freeride and dont worry about T stat hahaha
we better ride this winter where u been hiding?
- Thread starter
- #7
Ok, getting mixed opinions on this subject both here and other fellow sledders, I just dont want my sled to over heat or bog down in deep snow!!!!!
So, to spend 500 to 800 bucks on upgrades, what should a guy spend it on ? My biggest problem with xp's is engine bog due to air filter being plugged, pisses me off. what a chitty design by BRP !!!!!!!!!!!
Anyways mr.johni_t, was a chitty year last year, only made it out l think 5 five times. did some what of a career change, still mechanics just dumped the chitty dealer life. l have a ported track, but heard not much of a difference for a $1000 upgrade.........l will give you 5g for that beat up freeride, lol.........
So, to spend 500 to 800 bucks on upgrades, what should a guy spend it on ? My biggest problem with xp's is engine bog due to air filter being plugged, pisses me off. what a chitty design by BRP !!!!!!!!!!!
Anyways mr.johni_t, was a chitty year last year, only made it out l think 5 five times. did some what of a career change, still mechanics just dumped the chitty dealer life. l have a ported track, but heard not much of a difference for a $1000 upgrade.........l will give you 5g for that beat up freeride, lol.........
takethebounce
Active VIP Member
don't worry about any engine upgrades until you dump the stock ported track on that sled. Best money under a grand you can spend besides clutching/gearing.
For sure, you will get mixed opinions. Everyone's thumb dyno will give a varied result. Its not like it is a patend product. (as far as I know it isn't) typically if its such a vast improvement other aftermarket companies would jump on it and make it cheaper. At $150 plus the thermostat, You might be getting one more pull on the hill with a stock motor. Motors with other mods, heads, exhaust combos, whatever else may see an improvement.
You dont want your sled to over heat, run a proper length snow flap and scratchers on the trail. Every once in awhile on real hard packed, get off in the soft stuff. Don't want it to bog down in deep snow, clutch it and gear it.
POWDERSLUT
Active VIP Member
mine has never overheated with no snowflap,and a 2.5 non ported track..get the head and the thermostat ull be very pleased,,,
- Thread starter
- #10
POWDERSLUT
Active VIP Member
i went with arts engine tech head(13.5) domes..I never changed my jetting,i also run a timbersled intake .it is jetted perfect plugs look like cinnamon..
deaner
Active VIP Member
I would definitely recommend Arts head as well. I added an honest 3.1 grams per arm after putting my 14:1 on. I had to jet WAY up though. I think Im running a 510 and 500.
For your intake issue.........what I did is add 2 flowrites to the back of the airbox that attaches to the carbs, then drill a bunch of holes in the side panel so it can pull cool air from there. My sled NEVER bogs down when the snow is super deep and the intake is plugging off. I also put some foam weather stripping on the back side of the side panel to seal it off so it only pulls air from the holes, and not from the clutch area. I tried the timbersled kit and my sled ran like a dog. Might have been better if I jetted down a bit for the warm air it was breathing. I ended up just putting the stock intake with the flowrites back in after one ride.
For your intake issue.........what I did is add 2 flowrites to the back of the airbox that attaches to the carbs, then drill a bunch of holes in the side panel so it can pull cool air from there. My sled NEVER bogs down when the snow is super deep and the intake is plugging off. I also put some foam weather stripping on the back side of the side panel to seal it off so it only pulls air from the holes, and not from the clutch area. I tried the timbersled kit and my sled ran like a dog. Might have been better if I jetted down a bit for the warm air it was breathing. I ended up just putting the stock intake with the flowrites back in after one ride.
takethebounce
Active VIP Member
If you are adding florites to the lower air box you would deffinetly want to richen up the mid range. The needle shims are easy to change.
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POWDERSLUT
Active VIP Member
deaner does your exhaust leak at any of the joints? i no when my exhaust bushings wore out she'd bog a little in the deep pow..
deaner
Active VIP Member
No, mine doesnt bog at all after the flow rites in the back of the airbox. Exhaust seals still seem good. Just changed my pipe and y pipe out for an SPI setup so we'll see how that works when the snow flys. Head likes it at 7900, and supposedly the pipe does too so they should work good together.
deaner
Active VIP Member
Ive thought about this. I have a couple of seasons now with the flowrites in. I watched my plugs like a hawk for the first couple of rides. Changed the pistons out last year and they still look like new. I should do this anyways to see what kind of difference it makes. Maybe Ive just been lucky up until now. Do I have to change over to 07 needles? Or can I just shim the ones I have in my 10?
takethebounce
Active VIP Member
It is the midrange that suffers so if you are checking you plugs at wot it wouldnt always show up.
I would have to look at my notes but I want to say we went up 10 thousand on the shims. Replaced the stock 20 thou shim with two 15's to get 30.
Florites deffinetly help with the off idle bog as the lower airbox is too small and the neck from the main airbox is too narrow.
It's all for noise compliance.
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I would have to look at my notes but I want to say we went up 10 thousand on the shims. Replaced the stock 20 thou shim with two 15's to get 30.
Florites deffinetly help with the off idle bog as the lower airbox is too small and the neck from the main airbox is too narrow.
It's all for noise compliance.
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deaner
Active VIP Member
Yeah I know. Checked my plugs in different throttle positions to get a sense of what was happening in the mid range too. Should quit being so cheap and just throw a set of pyros on probably.
oler1234
Active VIP Member
back to the thermostat, the biggest point everyone is missing is that it flows more coolant than the stocker. This may or may not change your opinion, but i know what mine is.
As for flow rites in the back.... WHY!!!. so your motor likes hot air and clutch dust?? hot air to fix a bog, makes sense i guess
. Slp intake and bondi box or c3 box is my opinion.
As for flow rites in the back.... WHY!!!. so your motor likes hot air and clutch dust?? hot air to fix a bog, makes sense i guess
. Slp intake and bondi box or c3 box is my opinion.
deaner
Active VIP Member
back to the thermostat, the biggest point everyone is missing is that it flows more coolant than the stocker. This may or may not change your opinion, but i know what mine is.
As for flow rites in the back.... WHY!!!. so your motor likes hot air and clutch dust?? hot air to fix a bog, makes sense i guess
I was skeptical as well, but heard a lot of good feedback from people before doing it. I have seen no negative side effects. Only positive. Like I said, I changed my pistons out for preventative maintainence and everything still looked like new. No build up or marking at all from anything getting through. I dont think it is sucking any hot air the way I have the other areas dammed off with weather stripping, and having the holes in my side panel. I dont think that flowrite material breathes that easily, especially with the thin coat of oil it tends to accumulate because of me pre-mixing. I think it only pulls air from there when the main intake is plugged off.
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