Electrical troubles.

[Rucky]

The gauge on my Pro has been acting up for a while, going on and off and flashing the check engine light. It seems while idling it doesnt have enough juice to run the gauge as it comes on as soon as I rev up. It also shuts off every so often while riding. Also had the sled cut out a few times and die completely once yesterday. Was fine all day today as far as running goes. Anyone have an idea what's up?


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[007sevens]

your tps is out of adjustment. go to your dealer and get it set

 

[Assaulter]

This is interesting? Mine did that today twice as well. Would it be possible that the TPS is causing this issue, and my bogging issue at the same time Sevens? It also sounded like my sled was cutting in and out under steady low RPM.

 

[Rucky]

The TPS would cause the gauge to turn off and on?


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[Summiteer]

The TPS would cause the gauge to turn off and on?


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I can see the tps causing bogging and missing, but the gauge thing almost sounds like moisture in connectors somewhere. Or a stator issue

 

[Rucky]

The weird thing is, it only fell on its face about five times in an hour, then died once completely. That's it. Otherwise it ran like a top. Just with the gauge doing its own thing.


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[007sevens]

the Pro should idle at 1600 rpms if it is not doing this your tps is off. The engine at a low idle can not produce enough electricity to keep the tail light, your headlights and display working. The bogging issues can somewhat be contributed to the same issue but not ALL of them. Your Dealer will be able to fix this and ONLY the dealer as you need polaris software to fix and properly set your TPS. hope this helps.

 

[hecks]

Mine did this all weekend as well. Was cutting out on the trail with a single engine light flash (TPS Sensor) Eventually dropped into Monster bowl @ Boulder and sled would not move. Solid engine light. As soon as you hit the throttle it cuts out (had this happen last year a time or two and replaced the ECM). So I pulled the fuel filter off the throttle body and was so pressured up it sprayed fuel 2 ft out, then gurgled and drain fuel out of the motor for approx. 5 mins. Bolted everything back together and no issues and no engine light for the rest of the day. Quick fix for any others who run into this situation. Last year I had to do this twice the same day to get the sled to the truck.

 

[k-dawg77]

Mine is also doing the same thing a dirty bog cutting in and out just after clutch engages 4500 rmp Gage's started flasing on and off as soon as I give it full throttle good as gold

 

[Blueriversledz-Digger]

I had a bog at 6700 rpm's on one of my 800's. Dropped it off at the dealership hoping it was a TPS sensor, now they figure it's injector failure. Hope this cleans up the bog without any more down time...

 

[Chrisco]

On the left side of the sled in front of the oil tank were all the wires are. Find the 2 wire plug that plugs into the black box on the belt gard. That plug comes loose and causes this problem, use a set of pliers and crimp the female end a bit on both sides of the plug and push the plug back in hard. Try that let us know.

 

[High Velocity]

Dealer will be able to fix this and ONLY the dealer as you need polaris software to fix and properly set your TPS. hope this helps.

This statement is not totally correct. If you have a quality multi-meter and a TPS tester, you can test and adjust the TPS at home. I have a low cost tester I built when I had my 900 RMK and I just used my Fluke meter & home built tester to check the TPS on my Pro.

 

[007sevens]

This statement is not totally correct. If you have a quality multi-meter and a TPS tester, you can test and adjust the TPS at home. I have a low cost tester I built when I had my 900 RMK and I just used my Fluke meter & home built tester to check the TPS on my Pro.

alright, Never thought of it that way. If you had the specs you could adjust it that way. I was standing there when the dealer set it using Polaris software, never even considered using anything else. I stand corrected.

 

[bren3flames]

My 2011 Pro was doing the same thing it was bogging and it would quit occasionally, it also wouldnt idle at all and the dealer said it was the tps sensor out of adjustment so i took it in and it sure does run better now.

 

[braapin]

I have had the same idling problem on my 2012 pro. Have had my sled at the dealer 3 or 4 times. First they said it was just moisture in the tps. This time, my dealer just replaced the tps and sealed up the connection with some silicone I guess. I took it out yesterday and it still won't idle or go into reverse either. Was wondering if that was a related issue or not. Definitely getting frustrated.

 

[Rucky]

Sled is at the dealer as we speak, should know more later this week. Sounds like the TPS.


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[007sevens]

I spent another weekend tuning the fuel map on my sled and have noticed that if the fuel being delivered to mine at an idle to be to much by about 1-2%. To much and it brings the idle down far enough that the display flashes and it won't go into reverse. I think Polaris has the 2011's to rich at an idle.

 

[Rucky]

Well, got the sled back today, turns out the TPS was considerably out to lunch... Also got the oil line update while it was in. This was all covered under my warranty, which ended last November... Kudos to Polaris and/or Elk Island Sales for that! Sled idles properly and the gauge stayed on while loading. I guess the true test will be next weekend in Vale.

 

[OnlyPolaris]

When you set the TPS by yourself at home you have to remember that you can simply not just move to TPS to get the correct voltage. This will screw up the baseline setting. You must set your baseline setting and if done correctly your TPS voltage will end up where it needs to be.

 

[174mcx]

Our pro on the weekend started out with a rich spot at 5300rpm it would consistently miss on one cylinder not at 5000 or 5600 but right at 5300. If we ran it for a while at that rpm then stopped immediately one plug would be wet and the other would be fine.. Then it started to shut down at lower rpms. Then it started to idle but nOt rev up at all while the check engine light was on. Then it got over that and started with the cutting in and out again but it never offered to cut out at WOT only when trying to accelerate. The missing problem still existed during all of this. Any thoughts? Tried the throttle cable tension and safety switch on the throttle lever and seemed to be some where else also checked compression when we got home and they are even side to side