e tec hesitation

[bobsledder]

Took the wifes 600 etec for a rip today. Hard to explain but if you pin it from a dead stop vs. feathering it a bit it will stumble. If you feed the fuel to it to quickly it will hit 8000 rpm and pop/stumble/hesitate but if you accelerate a little easier it will pull good.
Is this a clutching issue or what? Doesn't seem to matter what elevation.

 

[Bnorth]

There is a software update for the 800's, might be one for the 600's too?

 

[bobsledder]

There is a software update for the 800's, might be one for the 600's too?

This thing is an 09 600 etec and it had a reflash back then at it's 500km check. I think it has always done this. My wife isn't quite as throttle happy as I am, I just never get on it. I was wondering if it is cutting the fuel so it won't over rev.

I have a 12 800 etec that doesn't do this

 

[finndoo]

My brothers 09 600 e-tech is doing a very similar thing, I talked to the dealer and they told me that until it's 500 km service to just put up with it. he only has 200 km on it now so it may be a while and I don't know if there is a reflash or what they will do for it at 500 km.

 

[bobsledder]

My brothers 09 600 e-tech is doing a very similar thing, I talked to the dealer and they told me that until it's 500 km service to just put up with it. he only has 200 km on it now so it may be a while and I don't know if there is a reflash or what they will do for it at 500 km.

This one has 2200 km on it. Had a reflash at the 500km service but still does it. When ya pin it from a dead stop it hits 8000 rpm on the tack instantly, gives a few farts but RPM's never fluctuate on the tach. If rolling with load on the engine and pin it it doesn't do it which is why I was thinking it may be clutching but I know little about that. It is on clicker 3 riding at 1900M elevation.

 

[ridehard]

Try just turning down the clicker by one number. Tach's don't respond well to quik bursts in RPM; it could be going over, and kicking off the rev limiter momentarily.
Easiest and first option.

 

[finndoo]

Yeah that description is exactly what my brothers is doing, I do not think that it is an over rev scenario but it seems to fart a little under heavy throttle and is very noticeable under load up hill. It farts, clears up and pulls hard right after. If you ease on the throttle it pulls clean right through. You can try clickering down just to see but my feeling is that there is an interruption in either spark or fuel due to ECU mapping. We ran the same clicker # on my brothers at 1500 ft and kept it right up to 7000 ft with the same thing still happening, but I can not remember what # he was on. I am sorry I can not be of more help but I my brother is going to wait until the service and hope that his will clear up.

This one has 2200 km on it. Had a reflash at the 500km service but still does it. When ya pin it from a dead stop it hits 8000 rpm on the tack instantly, gives a few farts but RPM's never fluctuate on the tach. If rolling with load on the engine and pin it it doesn't do it which is why I was thinking it may be clutching but I know little about that. It is on clicker 3 riding at 1900M elevation.

 

[bobsledder]

Yeah that description is exactly what my brothers is doing, I do not think that it is an over rev scenario but it seems to fart a little under heavy throttle and is very noticeable under load up hill. It farts, clears up and pulls hard right after. If you ease on the throttle it pulls clean right through. You can try clickering down just to see but my feeling is that there is an interruption in either spark or fuel due to ECU mapping. We ran the same clicker # on my brothers at 1500 ft and kept it right up to 7000 ft with the same thing still happening, but I can not remember what # he was on. I am sorry I can not be of more help but I my brother is going to wait until the service and hope that his will clear up.

It is on clicker 3. Dropped to 1 and it pulls 8000 rpm and falls to 7500. Clickered up to 2-same result. Put it back to 3 and it hits 8000 and holds. It does exactly what you describe, pin it the bar from a stopped position and it farts, cleans up and pulls hard. Feather the throttle on take off and pulss hard with no burbles/farts. I am convinced after playing with the clickers today it is not a clutching issue but more like what you are thinking with the ECU mapping cutting off spark or fuel.Guess I will have to give the dealer a call.

 

[takethebounce]

Has this sled ever had any air box mods done to it?

Also, 2200 km, have the plugs been changed? With the direct injection the plugs are likely in need of a change by now and could cause a misfire when you hammer the throttle.

Has the clutching been gone through and any worns parts replaced. I am sure the buttons/orings are worn heavily if not. The arms likely are full of belt dust, its also possible the cup bushing is worn beyond spec and the sliding half bushing needs to be replaced.

 

[bobsledder]

Has this sled ever had any air box mods done to it?

Also, 2200 km, have the plugs been changed? With the direct injection the plugs are likely in need of a change by now and could cause a misfire when you hammer the throttle.

Has the clutching been gone through and any worns parts replaced. I am sure the buttons/orings are worn heavily if not. The arms likely are full of belt dust, its also possible the cup bushing is worn beyond spec and the sliding half bushing needs to be replaced.

No air box mods. Stocker with original plugs. I clean clutch of belt dust between rides. When I went thru clutch at end of last season (1900km) buttons and o rings were good and bushings were good. I will check them again and throw some new plugs in it. That mis fire has been there from day 1.
Have to take my 800 in for the 500km service so I guess I will drag this one in as well.

 

[mach123]

Try to go where there is snow, enough to load engine and I don't think it will do the same thing. Let me know after you test it this way. Good luck

 

[takethebounce]

yeah the plugs are indexed so if you replace yourself make sure you find out the proper torque spec so they line up properly.

 

[bobsledder]

Try to go where there is snow, enough to load engine and I don't think it will do the same thing. Let me know after you test it this way. Good luck

Riding in untracked snow running board deep and it does it. It is not consistent.

 

[bobsledder]

No one has any ideas?

 

[Caper11]

From what I seen thus far this is a etec issue. My 2011 did it often and was quite annoying, trying to reclutch a etec can be annoying because it can make this hesitation worse and if your find the right combo it can make the hesitation go away. Mine does not hesitate anymore since I found my clutching setup that I like.

 

[TurboTundraCole]

Took the wifes 600 etec for a rip today. Hard to explain but if you pin it from a dead stop vs. feathering it a bit it will stumble. If you feed the fuel to it to quickly it will hit 8000 rpm and pop/stumble/hesitate but if you accelerate a little easier it will pull good.
Is this a clutching issue or what? Doesn't seem to matter what elevation.

My 600 etec has 1000k when with stock muffler no problems at all, then i put MBRP can on at 700k no problems at all again. Today I just put on a can from specialty sleds and now I have the same thing going on that you have ,8000rpm and dies and then pulls back to 8000 again ?????????????? WHAT IS CAUSING THIS o2 sencer back pressure or ???????

 

[snotwister]

Here is the deal i had with my 2009 600 e-tech renegade.I bought it and put a can on it before ever running it with the stock can.The sled popped, backfired, missed and would cut in and out at high rpm.I took it to one dealer first with no problems found and then i updated the fuel pump screen in the tank to the newer 2010 version,did the plugs,cleaned my raves,dis-assembled the clutches, etc, etc and had it at martin equipment for over a month and had them stumped until they told me to bring in the stock can.Instantly the problem was gone and the sled ran perfect.The company that built my can did not believe it was there can that would do that but sent me another one to try.I continued to run it with the stock can and it ran perfectly until i received the replacement can.The replacement can had a completely different sound than the original at idle and full throttle and ran without any issues and is still on my sled right now.I believe it was a back pressure issue in the original can that caused all my problems and it cost me a lot of money to find this out.I will say though even with the GOOD can on the sled you can hear a little burble etc every once in a while but a 100% better than before and totally livable.The sled definatley runs the best with the stocker but its a little to quiet for me and i will live with a slight burble to have the sound.I hope this helps you with the issues your having and maybe it will save you some money and headaches that i had.

 

[bobsledder]

Had it in to my dealer yesterday and the technician put in new plugs and cleaned the rave valves. They were gummed up and sticky. Once he cleaned, reassembled, calibrated and test ran he wasn't happy with how slow they were opening and manually changed some parameters in the ECU until they were reacting how he wanted them to. We will see how that works. Running a MBRP can.

If it does it again I will throw the stock can on and see.

be a few days before we can get it on the snow.

 

[bobsledder]

Had it in to my dealer yesterday and the technician put in new plugs and cleaned the rave valves. They were gummed up and sticky. Once he cleaned, reassembled, calibrated and test ran he wasn't happy with how slow they were opening and manually changed some parameters in the ECU until they were reacting how he wanted them to. We will see how that works. Running a MBRP can.

If it does it again I will throw the stock can on and see.

be a few days before we can get it on the snow.

Update: Totally different sled now. Much more response from throttle, jumps up to full RPM and holds with no hesitation. This seems to have fixed the problem.