drop and roll

Maverick800XRS

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this would nice to know for sure, thinking about this for a summer project when i change track, if you already have the gearbox aparts and the track out why not right !?! Mine would be for an 07 DOO. They seem pretty straight forward, might get the kit from specialty sleds in edmonton. Just drill new holes, rivet plates on and reinstall...

Got any info for us modman ? :p
 

Modman

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this would nice to know for sure, thinking about this for a summer project when i change track, if you already have the gearbox aparts and the track out why not right !?! Mine would be for an 07 DOO. They seem pretty straight forward, might get the kit from specialty sleds in edmonton. Just drill new holes, rivet plates on and reinstall...

Got any info for us modman ? :p

Not quite as easy as some places make you think it is. A D&R is a full off frame job, you will probably have to take out your motor, rear susp, all supporting structure, seat, hood, bellypan, coolers etc. Front skis and springs can be left on (in theory - not recommended) but may have to come off to facilitate flipping the sled on its side, upside down, etc and to get the bellypan off. The critical component is shaft alignment. If your shafts aren't true, then it only causes serious issues with alignment in the chaincase for the bearings and can prematurely wear. If a good kit is available, then usually it is not that bad, you can just rivet the templates in place and then drill the holes. Measuring is still critical to ensure the templates are aligned and you will still have to disassemble the sled. Expect that you might find something wrong with some parts as well while you have the sled apart (bearings in rear susp, sliders, etc). The nun's in the newer Doo's can tweak and alignment will suffer unless it is sqaure to start with. No point in building on a crooked foundation right?

This is something that can be done, but requires attention to detail and good tools. Having a proper square, diversified measuring tools and knowing how to do things like cross measure, etc to determine exact alignment is important. The other thing about a template is you are limited to how much drop and roll is in the kit. Not using a template, the amount you can drop and roll is pretty much endless (within the limitations of materials and clearances and the longest clutch belt). Kits are obviously nicer though since everything should line up once the templates are bolted in.
Here's a link to another thread.
https://www.snowandmud.com/forum/f55/drop-roll-6677.html
 

Longhairfreak

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this would nice to know for sure, thinking about this for a summer project when i change track, if you already have the gearbox aparts and the track out why not right !?! Mine would be for an 07 DOO. They seem pretty straight forward, might get the kit from specialty sleds in edmonton. Just drill new holes, rivet plates on and reinstall...

Got any info for us modman ? :p

Specialty does the cheesy drop and roll.
 

CrankShop910

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Is this a M7 cat? If so I never see one from the factory with a chain case.
With the gear box you will have to fill the hole before rolling the chain case back and down.. Then the foot well will have to be cut out to clear the case..
 

steve8

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I have done one on my 06 rev. Got the kit from specialty. When i decided to do mine, was when i had a bare chassis sitting on the stand. I mean bare too. The kit was pretty straight forward to install. Had some problems after with bearing preload, but thats it. I dont know if i would want to go with more of a d and r then what they doo. Right now as my sled sits, just about half the drivers and sitting out under the belly pan. Have to be super carefull when going over things. Anyways, if you do decide to do it, if worth it.
 

Maverick800XRS

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When i was talking to Specialty yesterday they told me that it takes them about 16 hours in the shop to do a D&R...

I knew it was alot of work but DAM !!! i don't have the space/shop to do that, i thought this would be a fun summer project but hell... and then theres the issues of not getting everything just right and preloading your bearings.

Not for me, id rather tear the sled down all the way and replace the tunnel. Something to think about later in the future is a Crazy Mountain Extreme drive system, would a great mod once you ran outta things to do haha. They also act like a D&R chaincase and they have different lengths !
 

Longhairfreak

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When i was talking to Specialty yesterday they told me that it takes them about 16 hours in the shop to do a D&R...

I knew it was alot of work but DAM !!! i don't have the space/shop to do that, i thought this would be a fun summer project but hell... and then theres the issues of not getting everything just right and preloading your bearings.

Not for me, id rather tear the sled down all the way and replace the tunnel. Something to think about later in the future is a Crazy Mountain Extreme drive system, would a great mod once you ran outta things to do haha. They also act like a D&R chaincase and they have different lengths !

The CMX belt drive is far from efficient. Stick with a chaincase.
 

Modman

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:rolleyes:
The CMX belt drive is far from efficient. Stick with a chaincase.

If Mountain Magic installed belt drives - I'd bet you have a different opinion.

LMAO

It seems funny that the actual manufacturer of the product makes the opposite claim to your statement ....

but hey....You just happen to have a chassis dyno lying around and have actually tested both setups, so of course you would know that chaincase is more efficient, and have some actual numbers to back up that statement, right? And surely you have some on the hill testing to verify your claim that a lightweight, flexible belt running on larger diameter pulley without being pulled through oil(i.e. LESS friction) is more efficient than a heavy chain with a rough surface and links that is pulled around smaller diameter sprockets?

Please post all your data and real world testing that you have, we are all looking forward to hearing your extremely vast knowledge on this technical subject.
 

HagmanMod1

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No its a cheesy one.1/2" down and 3/4" back. Thats cheesy.
i dont know what your smoking but mine was done by specialty and its like 2.5inches down and 3 back or vise verse so maby you should look into things alittle more before you flap your gums and its on an 07 rev well worth the money could run the new 3inch with room to spare
 
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