Counter steering doesn't work on m1000 - is there a fix?

[1badhusky]

My m1000 leans over much easier than my xp600 did, and once it does, it carves pretty good, but it seems counter steering while leaned over actually tends to prevent a sharp carve and straighten me out vs helping to make it sharper.

On the xp, counter steer would give you a nice hard turn.

Is this just the difference in how they handle due to 163 vs 146 and xp vs m or is my suspension possibly not set up correct? Steering does feel very heavy.

For the most part it handles well, but this counter steer thing is weird.

 

[scrfce]

Ya it does seem weird cause the m's are the easiest flickable machines out there, especially compared to the xp. Maybe you just need more saddle time to feel the different handling characteristics of each sled

 

[Dynacorkle]

Haha Spoken like a man who bleeds green! It's probably track length, you could try tightening the strap on the front of your rear suspension. To accomplish more ski weight. Maybe all that track is pushing through the counter steer.

 

[Destroyer]

The m's don't turn like the doo's. Try leaning the sled over underneath you more than leaning your whole body to start your turn. The 162 isn't helping either.

 

[1badhusky]

The m's don't turn like the doo's. Try leaning the sled over underneath you more than leaning your whole body to start your turn. The 162 isn't helping either.

I understand what you're saying w/ this - seems like every time I lean my body over like i had to on the xp, I fall right off cuz it tips so easily.

More seat time will help for sure.

Was thinking maybe it was the ski length - too long maybe, that's why the counter steer isn't working?

Definitely don't want it to be heavier up front - it already feels heavy to steer - the sled doesn't feel heavy, just the steering - totally thinking yamaha is on to something w/ their power steering thing.

 

[Destroyer]

If your steering is hard it's your suspension set-up. Try going around 55-65lbs in the front shock. Limiter straps all the way out. 120-140 psi in the rear. And see what it does.

I understand what you're saying w/ this - seems like every time I lean my body over like i had to on the xp, I fall right off cuz it tips so easily.

More seat time will help for sure.

Was thinking maybe it was the ski length - too long maybe, that's why the counter steer isn't working?

Definitely don't want it to be heavier up front - it already feels heavy to steer - the sled doesn't feel heavy, just the steering - totally thinking yamaha is on to something w/ their power steering thing.

 

[Rucky]

Definitely need less ski pressure. My steering is super light to the point where it's a pain to ride on trails because it doesn't steer well. However, when you're up in the sweet spots, it's ideal to ride.

 

[1badhusky]

If your steering is hard it's your suspension set-up. Try going around 55-65lbs in the front shock. Limiter straps all the way out. 120-140 psi in the rear. And see what it does.

Cool - thanks - Think I'll start w/ just one of those - that way I know what's changing what -does that make sense or is this such a standard set up that it's just gonna work?

I'm probably 240 lbs w/ gear. Sled's the snowpro but valves have been redone professionally by previous owner - who was 300 lbs and set it up.

Pretty noobish at setting up sleds myself. Thinking I'll start w/ reducing the air pressure - believe the front is set at 70 or so right now. Does it matter if you're setting up the pressure at different altitudes, before/during a ride, or at different temps?

 

[Rucky]

Cool - thanks - Think I'll start w/ just one of those - that way I know what's changing what -does that make sense or is this such a standard set up that it's just gonna work?

I'm probably 240 lbs w/ gear. Sled's the snowpro but valves have been redone professionally by previous owner - who was 300 lbs and set it up.

Pretty noobish at setting up sleds myself. Thinking I'll start w/ reducing the air pressure - believe the front is set at 70 or so right now. Does it matter if you're setting up the pressure at different altitudes, before/during a ride, or at different temps?

Try to setup your air pressure at approximately the temperature you'll be riding at. I found altitude didn't make a huge difference for me. But do make sure you have the weight off the sled while doing it..

 

[1badhusky]

Try to setup your air pressure at approximately the temperature you'll be riding at. I found altitude didn't make a huge difference for me. But do make sure you have the weight off the sled while doing it..

Weight off the sled? Like, tipped on its side? Haven't heard that before.

Looking over the notes he gave me, the guy had the fronts set at 50 lbs in the front and 120 in the back, so sounds like i'm right where you suggested. Would more pressure help?

Limiter strap isn't all the way out though, maybe I'll try that first.

 

[oly]

Ya tip it over! I found out the hard way when I was adjusting my rear and the track was on the ground... blew the hand pump seals and had to get a new one.

 

[1badhusky]

Ya tip it over! I found out the hard way when I was adjusting my rear and the track was on the ground... blew the hand pump seals and had to get a new one.

Well, thanks - glad I found out about that - that would suck to learn that lesson the way you did.

 

[Rucky]

Air pressures or a huge rider preference thing.... Don't expect to come on here and have recommended settings work wonders for you. You likely don't have the same riding style as Joe Blow on here. I think I'm running 60 on the right front shock, 65 on the left, and around 95 in the back... Running geo/elvis mod though so it totally changes the rear running pressure.

 

[1badhusky]

Lowering front shock pressure makes it easier to lay over, correct?

 

[Rucky]

Lowering front shock pressure makes it easier to lay over, correct?

I haven't experimented a huge amount, but I have two theories...

1. It does make it easier, because being softer on the front will promote a lean to whichever side of your choice.

2. It makes it more difficult because the sled does not actually tip for the first bit of travel of the shock, it just sags (both ski's still on the ground, but one shock compressed).

Personally, I go for the more stiff approach because I don't wanna be beat up on the trail, and am far to lazy to change shock pressures in the middle of the day. JMO.

 

[Mac Daddy]

One thing i had with my 2009 m8 is the steering tie rods were very hard to move even with the sled off the ground.Talked to dealer and got a new set.That made the difference for 300 miles,then the same thing.tie rods are seizing up.Talked to dealer and he said no more free sets for me.He sugested that i change them to the 2010 model tie rods and that should cure the problem. Have not changed them again as i have bought a new 2011 e-tec. The m8 is for buddies who want to come along for a ride,they are green and dont know any better.hahah will change next year or when someone has a complaint.It seemed the tie rods were good at the begining of day,But within a couple of hours steering was very hard.I dont think i was played out by then and had no strengh left.lol

 

[1badhusky]

Well, rode it again today, kindof getting the hang of it - it's all in the lean - the xp600 was much more about the countersteer - still straightens out a bit more than I'd prefer w/ countersteer, but I think I can manage - it does feel like the back of the skis are too long - why I think that, I don't know, I just do.

 

[summit1974]

just by a DOO!:d

 

[teamgreen]

just by a DOO!:d

so than he would be a real good mechanic?

 

[tmo1620]

Well, thanks - glad I found out about that - that would suck to learn that lesson the way you did.

You didn't know that? didn't your sled come with an owners manual says plain as day in there how to adjust shock pressure