Clutching by Powderlites Sicamous

[bobsledder]

I'm not really a fan of clutch "kits". There are great differences in rider preference, expectations, riding style, snow conditions, elevations, weight and even sled to sled differences. I don't feel tossing in a relatively generic kit is really is any better than brp's generic factory calibration. If the sled runs well and you're happy with it, I'd leave it be. I don't subscribe to the "there's lots left on the table" camp. However, if you have specific problems or preferences, then deal with that with the correct parts on a case by case basis.

The issues with my G4T were: 1) significant over revving, 2) buzzy, high rpm's on the trail, 3) higher than desired belt temps (not a belt blower tho)
After some frustration with trying to address the issues myself, and some positive feedback from others, I impulse bought their setup while at the shop one day.
The PL kit consisted of: 1)primary spring, 2) their own pivot bolt and washers 3) a BRP multi angle helix 4) a 22 tooth top gear (stock 21)
Their theory (as was roughly explained) that the turbo needed to be loaded more and the gearing and more aggressive shifting would address this.
Another well known shop in sic highly recommended slp's magnum weights as the solution.

It did nothing for the over revving. I had to add a bunch of pivot weight back on over what they said I would need, which I had already tried before their kit. They supplied a generic allen head bolt with a stack of Nord-lock waters for weight. This makes the bolt very difficult to loosen and the head was already beginning to strip. I put brp bolts and washers back on. The buzziness on the trail did improve greatly. I think it is a combination of the helix and gearing. Overall, I feel backshifting improved slightly from the helix. Lastly, my seat of the pants opinion is the belt temps went up slightly after the kit. Likely as a result of the gear up.

My G5T was over revving as well, but I liked the shifting characteristics. I've added several grams of pivot weight, which for the most part has addressed the problem, but back shifting has suffered a bit and I find it inconsistent.
I have ridden a friends G5T with ibackshift clutching. I didn't like it at all. Low engagement, but very 'lurchy' imo. His kits are very popular with good reviews. To each their own I guess.

Good to know. My sled works great and were I ride out here so I will save my money.

I was in there and they were trying to sell me on there clutch set up but I haven't had any issues or belt problems so leave it alone I guess.

 

[ctd]

My G5T was over revving as well, but I liked the shifting characteristics. I've added several grams of pivot weight, which for the most part has addressed the problem, but back shifting has suffered a bit and I find it inconsistent. I have ridden a friends G5T with ibackshift clutching. I didn't like it at all. Low engagement, but very 'lurchy' imo. His kits are very popular with good reviews. To each their own I guess.

Piling weight on the pivot to lower the peak RPM isn't a good idea for the reason you mentioned. It's to close to the pivot axle to be effective on the tip were you need it to control peak RPM. A very small amount of weight on the tip makes a big difference. Then it will not impact the back shift as dramatically as heavy pivot weight. Finding a lower finish rate spring leaving the engagement alone might help you. Then remove the excess pivot weight.

Low engagement springs rates really impact back shifting, not a good idea. Fixing the lurch as you describe is a very slight engagement bump on the ramp. Remove that bump, possibly add another shim to tighten the belt against the sheave in the primary..really helps.

Increasing the secondary spring rate will help improve engine braking downhill which will also improve backshift. Reverse angle helix works well with the turbos, not huge as you do not want to impede the backshift.

These new turbo's are a handful out of the box so the clutch calibration is not as critical as days gone by. The sled exceeds the ability of most riders.

The G5 engine mounting & a belt guard the moves some air have gone a long ways in solving belt issuer's. Calibrations can be improved if you want to hone in on specifics, understanding how solving one issue creates another is the difference.

 

[Bnorth]

I find clutching is usually a tradeoff. There are not gains to be had everywhere but you can fine tune what you like. The stock clutching usually has pretty poor engine braking and I find most kits greatly improve that.

 

[maxwell]

I find clutching is usually a tradeoff. There are not gains to be had everywhere but you can fine tune what you like. The stock clutching usually has pretty poor engine braking and I find most kits greatly improve that.

why does anyone care about engine braking i cant seem to figure that out, the brakes do the same thing if applied gently

 

[Bnorth]

why does anyone care about engine braking i cant seem to figure that out, the brakes do the same thing if applied gently

Maybe I'm not very good at threshold braking but I find the track locks up really easy on steep icy stuff. I feel way more in control using engine braking.

 

[highlander]

why does anyone care about engine braking i cant seem to figure that out, the brakes do the same thing if applied gently

Same idea as a diesel engine the brakes work but using the engine is better.


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[lilduke]

Ya i guess if youre towing polaris's out of the hills on the regular the jake brake could come in handy

 

[Caper11]

On hill decents, its nice to have constant engine braking, something that lacking on factory setup.
7mph at 3400rpm and the clutch stays engaged, when you need to get back into the throttle, the throttle response is there, instead of feathering the throttle and the brake. To each their own, I prefer to let the drive train do its thing without intervention.


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[snoflake]

Ya i guess if youre towing polaris's out of the hills on the regular the jake brake could come in handy

Good idea, if its a big hill tie the Polaris on front and use the ol jake brake. that would look weird as hell though. A Polaris in front of a doo????

 

[lilduke]

Good idea, if its a big hill tie the Polaris on front and use the ol jake brake. that would loke weird as hell though. A Polaris in front of a doo????

I think someone should design a solid 5th wheel hitch for towing polaris's.
Or maybe a tow truck style boom on the tunnel.

Get rid of the tow rope.

 

[Shredder]

Agree with you on the kits.
I’ve got a buddie. You tell him you’re set up. He will do the math and tell you word for word how it will work. I’ll never forget I bought a kit from Speed shop Inc. Sent him the recipe after I installed it. he told me it would be zippy, Rev lots and sound really powerful. Then he said it would have terrible upshift and do fawk all. lol December came and we went riding together with our new sleds and mine did what he said. I installed his exact parts after in my sled and kicked everyone’s ass with it lol
this is a man in the 60s with a lifetime of clutching since the 80’s.

Funny how guys that put in the time finding out how each component affects the next one seem to be able to know what to expect by reading specs.....those are the guys that are running pieces of "clutch kits"; with other components mixed in, and improving on the complete kit.