Chainsaw Recomendations

X-it

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imdoo'n.. I rented a 33 foot trailered man lift, it reached just as high as those 40 feet drive ones. I topped 10 trees of mine 60-80 foot and 3 for the neighbors, it needed my 24 inch bar to buck it. It did not take a lot of time or gas to get this done though. Rental was around 200 for 4 hours, the neighbors payed half.
 

imdoo'n

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imdoo'n.. I rented a 33 foot trailered man lift, it reached just as high as those 40 feet drive ones. I topped 10 trees of mine 60-80 foot and 3 for the neighbors, it needed my 24 inch bar to buck it. It did not take a lot of time or gas to get this done though. Rental was around 200 for 4 hours, the neighbors payed half.

hey thanks!
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i have been thinking on doing that. not even entertaining the idea of climbing and limbing, 25 yrs ago maybe. i think these poplars are the northwestern varitey? no idea. trunks are 2-4 ft in diameter. and the branches are in the 12 to 18 inch range? very dangerous indeed. in any kind of wind i stay out of the trees. once we get the already downed trees cleaned up, i will be looking into the manlift.
thanks for the good info!
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imdoo'n

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yup that will work, :beer:

oh crap! i can see getting launched into Saskatchewan, haha. :D not sure if i'm ready for outer-space yet though, as i can see a log hitting the hitch and the next thing, it is launch time.
 

X-it

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6 of mine were Birch , the lift just reached high enough to get to where it branches, branched all off, nothing seemed to bother the lift machine though some of the stuff landed on it. Take the rakers down and put more angle on the chain and you can cut that stuff way better... if your saw has the power to do that.
 
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imdoo'n

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yes i take a file and take the rakers down on new chain install, and about every second, third chain sharp will take another file stroke to the rakers, no saw dust just flyin chips from then on. most who run a saw have no idea what rakers are or what they do. or will ever grease the bar end either.
 
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TylerG

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yes i take a file and take the rakers down on new chain install, and about every second, third chain sharp will takse another file stroke to the rakers, no saw dust just flyin chips from then on. most who run a saw have no idea what rakers are or what they do. or will ever grease the bar end either.

I'm 100% guilty of this! guess I've got some research to do!
 

imdoo'n

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yes if the saw teeth seem to just slide over the wood, or you see very fine sawdust, you need to file a few strokes off the rakers. keep the teeth sharp also. biggest thing you can do is keep the gas and oil mix as close to the same as you can. none of that 100 to 1 miracle oil either. leave that to the pinners. lol.
 
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ferniesnow

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yes if the saw teeth seem to just slide over he wood, or you see very fine sawdust, you need to file a few strokes off the rakers. keep the teeth sharp also. biggest thing you can do is keep the gas and oil mix as close to the same as you can. none of that 100 to 1 miracle oil either. leave that to the pinners. lol.

Yes, if there is sawdust in the pile while cutting, the teeth need a sharpening. Should only be chips in the discard pile! Every tank of gas (minimum), I touch up the teeth.
 

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Only use my saws for camping and trail repairs.

Chain takes a beating cutting some dirty or muddy logs. Aspen fuel is great 1 container lasts 2 years. Perfect for my use.
 

X-it

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That should be a breeze, just cut those overhanging the sheds half way every 6 or 8 feet and it will act like a hinge and will not fall to the ground. I will have to say this arff, when putting aspen fuel in an old motor, **** is coming out of the carbs and off of the pistons.. probably fouling the plugs and de-varnishing the carbs. It runs like **** for a bit, hard starting. My 1984 Honda atc which is my baby ran like crap for a bit. Now it starts and runs better than it every did. Same with the leaf blower and weed eater. Man I have lots of small engines 12 of the bastards 10 I run aspen fuel in. The 15hp evenrude as not been started in 7 years, I bet it will start and run no problems.
 

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