CEMENT GUYS - Problem - Need Advise.

[TylerG]

Great idea Tyler..............NOT....lol


Tapatalk....well I'm happy with you now....thanks for the fix.

would you prefer curling rink?

 

[SLEDBUNNYRACING]

would you prefer curling rink?

N O T
......lol


Tapatalk....well I'm happy with you now....thanks for the fix.

 

[X-it]

The goofy drain tile, and radon gas crap in house's. I would like to see a complete house wrap that a house can sit in a lake and no water enter or gas infultrate, but that will never happen. I have ran drain tile around the perimeter and under the footing into a basement sump box. It worked really good and if the pump ever quit it was an easy access to it. Pump usually runs quite a bit in the spring of the year anyway. Ground sloping is more important than you think it would be. Make sure eves-troughs if you have them are diverted away. Make sure all surfaces water is draining away or diverted away from your house. Plastic under the slap and acoustic seal to the footing does stop water.

 

[snochuk]

what if you let it fill with water, drop the temps super low and create a skating rink?

A hah - secret hideout for the Oilers to pratice in! Lord knows the y need the proctice!!!

 

[gates559]

I would leave your existing sump alone, sounds like its working. Find the wet area and dig a new second sump in. Use a deep perforated sump tank. along with some new weeping tile with cloth, running into it and you should be good to go. Nothing $1500.00 and a solid days work wont fix.
Rent yourself a Hilti demo hammer with a clay spade and it wont be to bad.

 

[52weekbreak]

I've decided not to go with Aric's idea of a swimming pool.....lol
After much great input (thanks guys) and Internet reading I've decided to run inside perimeter weeping tile tied into the sump. I may also add a run in a semicircle through the middle to make sure I never have a problem in the future.
Again....THANKS everyone.

A little late to respond BUT you are absolutely correct. Take the time now and do the interior weeping tile. The house i live in (an acreage outside of Sherwood Park built 1981 purchased by us in 1990) started leaking water (squeezing up from the bottom along the basement wall) in 1998. No reason I could see. Jackhammered concrete and did interior weeping tile with a second sump. Runs every 15 minutes in early spring as does the other one. No water problems now but I have installed battery back-up on both of them because if the power goes out, I would be done.

Second house in Glen Alan in Sherwood Park. Built in 1972 & bought by me in 2011. In 2013 the water started coming in (same thing - around edges of the slab. I knew the drill and got the jackhammer. The only good news was both of my sons were old enough to haul out concrete and shovel gravel. Even helped pour the concrete.

I would never build anything without both interior and exterior weeping tile. If you think it is work digging up gravel, try chunks of concrete. BTW, lay filet cloth down under the weeping tile and use it as a barrier between your regular gravel fill and the washed rock. I will help prevent plugging up the washed rock with sand and help prevent voids under your slab.

OH YES! If you are hooked to municipal sewer system, install a sewer back up valve. If you are on a septic system, install a high level alarm...a very loud alarm that your wife could not possible miss when she is doing laundry.

If you need any other tales of woe and the eventual fix that worked, feel free to PM me - K

 

[SLEDBUNNYRACING]

I've decided not to go with Aric's idea of a swimming pool.....lol
After much great input (thanks guys) and Internet reading I've decided to run inside perimeter weeping tile tied into the sump. I may also add a run in a semicircle through the middle to make sure I never have a problem in the future.
Again....THANKS everyone.

A little late to respond BUT you are absolutely correct. Take the time now and do the interior weeping tile. The house i live in (an acreage outside of Sherwood Park built 1981 purchased by us in 1990) started leaking water (squeezing up from the bottom along the basement wall) in 1998. No reason I could see. Jackhammered concrete and did interior weeping tile with a second sump. Runs every 15 minutes in early spring as does the other one. No water problems now but I have installed battery back-up on both of them because if the power goes out, I would be done.

Second house in Glen Alan in Sherwood Park. Built in 1972 & bought by me in 2011. In 2013 the water started coming in (same thing - around edges of the slab. I knew the drill and got the jackhammer. The only good news was both of my sons were old enough to haul out concrete and shovel gravel. Even helped pour the concrete.

I would never build anything without both interior and exterior weeping tile. If you think it is work digging up gravel, try chunks of concrete. BTW, lay filet cloth down under the weeping tile and use it as a barrier between your regular gravel fill and the washed rock. I will help prevent plugging up the washed rock with sand and help prevent voids under your slab.

OH YES! If you are hooked to municipal sewer system, install a sewer back up valve. If you are on a septic system, install a high level alarm...a very loud alarm that your wife could not possible miss when she is doing laundry.

If you need any other tales of woe and the eventual fix that worked, feel free to PM me - K

Thanks for the insight, and mans.....that sucks.....
We are in the process of looking for a HydroVac truck to cut the path for the weeping tile. We will be installing 4" with protective sock and tying it into the existing sump pump.
I agree, more work now an no problems later.

CheerZ


Tapatalk....well I'm happy with you now....thanks for the fix.

 

[imdoo'n]

bêtter get cyles approval first before anymore work is done, you will never hear the end of it!!!!!!!

 

[SLEDBUNNYRACING]

bêtter get cyles approval first before anymore work is done, you will never hear the end of it!!!!!!!

Tapatalk....well I'm happy with you now....thanks for the fix.

 

[sled-fiend]

How deep is your current exterior perimeter drain system installed at? At its highest point the top of pipe should be a minimum 4" below top of slab height and sloped from there. If your exterior system is installed well below slab, and gravity fed to a municipal storm main or engineered rock pit you may consider running your interior drainage into the existing system at its lowest point, eliminate the pump. I noticed you said 4" pipe with the sock, do yourself a favor and do not use the corrugated black big o accordion looking pipe. That stuff comes from the manufacture in big rolls, right from the get go the pipe has a contour which creates low spots which holds water and instead of moving it, allows it to leach out, visualize a half circle. Use a 4" perforated PVC pipe with the holes placed on the bottom side of the pipe, ensure the pipe is installed correct creating a channel between the holes which will allow the water to pass through the pipe and not leech out. I've water tested new drain systems where the pipe is slightly crooked, all the water will leech out the holes before making its way to the lateral line. Try and make sure you use a proper drain rock, 3/4" for example. Also be sure to cover your drain rock with an industrial grade filter cloth, not the Home Depot landscape fabric.

 

[SLEDBUNNYRACING]

How deep is your current exterior perimeter drain system installed at? At its highest point the top of pipe should be a minimum 4" below top of slab height and sloped from there. If your exterior system is installed well below slab, and gravity fed to a municipal storm main or engineered rock pit you may consider running your interior drainage into the existing system at its lowest point, eliminate the pump. I noticed you said 4" pipe with the sock, do yourself a favor and do not use the corrugated black big o accordion looking pipe. That stuff comes from the manufacture in big rolls, right from the get go the pipe has a contour which creates low spots which holds water and instead of moving it, allows it to leach out, visualize a half circle. Use a 4" perforated PVC pipe with the holes placed on the bottom side of the pipe, ensure the pipe is installed correct creating a channel between the holes which will allow the water to pass through the pipe and not leech out. I've water tested new drain systems where the pipe is slightly crooked, all the water will leech out the holes before making its way to the lateral line. Try and make sure you use a proper drain rock, 3/4" for example. Also be sure to cover your drain rock with an industrial grade filter cloth, not the Home Depot landscape fabric.

Thanks for the feedback. I haven't looked at PVC pipe but will now.
Where does a guy get the industrial filter cloth?


Tapatalk....well I'm happy with you now....thanks for the fix.

 

[sled-fiend]

Thanks for the feedback. I haven't looked at PVC pipe but will now.
Where does a guy get the industrial filter cloth?


Tapatalk....well I'm happy with you now....thanks for the fix.

No problem. Corix water products is who I buy it from here in BC, a Google search shows one in Edmonton as well.