CEMENT GUYS - Problem - Need Advise.

[SLEDBUNNYRACING]

Projects and me just don't work well together sometimes.
LOOK'N FOR SOME ADVISE
Have a cabin with 600 sq ft basement and we have never poured the floor (take pages to explain why).
Last fall we contacted a cement guy to do the work, we want to save by investing in sweat equity.
Ric, Hart, Cj, Diane and myself have leveled and tamped the gravel in preparation for pouring cement in a few weeks.
PROBLEM: there was about 1/2" of water in areas this spring, I vac'd it out and some water is still returning.
CEMENT GUY: says not good, could force water up around edges in future and may cause other problems.
SOLUTION: add weeping tile and gravel from those wet areas back to the sump pump to stop it from causing problems in the future. That means a ton of work hauling out gravel that is already tamped and then haul in correct rock for weeping time.
MT THOUGHTS:
Is my current weeping tile around building not working right?
Is my tie in to the sump bucket not right?

SUGGESTIONS: would be very welcomed. I don't want to dig up the work I've done to install 3 runs of 20' of weeping tile to fix this.

IDEAS?


Tapatalk....well I'm happy with you now....thanks for the fix.

 

[pipes]

Projects and me just don't work well together sometimes.
LOOK'N FOR SOME ADVISE
Have a cabin with 600 sq ft basement and we have never poured the floor (take pages to explain why).
Last fall we contacted a cement guy to do the work, we want to save by investing in sweat equity.
Ric, Hart, Cj, Diane and myself have leveled and tamped the gravel in preparation for pouring cement in a few weeks.
PROBLEM: there was about 1/2" of water in areas this spring, I vac'd it out and some water is still returning.
CEMENT GUY: says not good, could force water up around edges in future and may cause other problems.
SOLUTION: add weeping tile and gravel from those wet areas back to the sump pump to stop it from causing problems in the future. That means a ton of work hauling out gravel that is already tamped and then haul in correct rock for weeping time.
MT THOUGHTS:
Is my current weeping tile around building not working right?
Is my tie in to the sump bucket not right?

SUGGESTIONS: would be very welcomed. I don't want to dig up the work I've done to install 3 runs of 20' of weeping tile to fix this.

IDEAS?


Tapatalk....well I'm happy with you now....thanks for the fix.

Sell .

 

[falconsledder]

Check out the perimeter french drain, a little less work.
Basement Waterproofing Information and Estimates | Wet Basement Contractors at Basement Systems

 

[Puba]

Where's Cycle when you need him

 

[gates559]

no offense but Sweat equity should only be done when you fully understand what your doing. Otherwise just put in some overtime at your full time job and hire a professional cause its cheaper in the long run.


Did you run the weeping tile? Is it around the exterior perimeter or interior?
how deep is your sump?
is your pump running at all?

Dont try to sell it and pawn your problems on someone else... burn it and collect the insurance.

 

[gates559]

is the water in one area or several spots?

 

[SLEDBUNNYRACING]

Sell .

.....lol.....
Thanks




Tapatalk....well I'm happy with you now....thanks for the fix.

 

[SLEDBUNNYRACING]

Check out the perimeter french drain, a little less work.
Basement Waterproofing Information and Estimates | Wet Basement Contractors at Basement Systems

Thanks.


Tapatalk....well I'm happy with you now....thanks for the fix.

 

[SLEDBUNNYRACING]

Where's Cycle when you need him

Ohhhh....so true
......lol.......


Tapatalk....well I'm happy with you now....thanks for the fix.

 

[SLEDBUNNYRACING]

no offense but Sweat equity should only be done when you fully understand what your doing. Otherwise just put in some overtime at your full time job and hire a professional cause its cheaper in the long run.


Did you run the weeping tile? Is it around the exterior perimeter or interior?
how deep is your sump?
is your pump running at all?

Dont try to sell it and pawn your problems on someone else... burn it and collect the insurance.

.....lol....burn and insurance.
Into this for the long haul.
Weeping installed by a professional company after walls poured.
Sump runs every 15 minutes in spring.

Basement walls poured 10ish years ago.
Only had water seep in the last two years.
Did tamping last year.


Tapatalk....well I'm happy with you now....thanks for the fix.

 

[SLEDBUNNYRACING]

Oh, sump is about 30" below weeping tile.


Tapatalk....well I'm happy with you now....thanks for the fix.

 

[Summitric]

We can put a swimming pool down there...... Lol ..... Could the water level risen, and or possibly a new spring?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[snochuk]

If your sump is running every 15 minutes your perimeter weeping tile is not plugged. The water coming up is from rising water table/ground pressure. The incoming water will make it's own route in the ground which can bypass your perimeter weeping tile. For the situation you have now the easy fix I would suggest is an under slab wheeping tile to your sump - what you had planned to do. Yes a lot of work but a perminate fix. Don't be cheap - put at least three logtitudinal rows of wheeping tile tying into a line leaing to your sump. You don't get a redo once slab is poured.
Another route is a layer of washed rock about 6" below your slab that drains toward your sump that is about 4" thick, filter cloth the entire area then 6" of road csh gravel compacted before you pour your slab. This makes your entire basement a french drain. The filter cloth layer is needed to stop the fines from the 6" of road crush from leeching down into the washed rock and plugging the french dain and also creating voids. This is a hell of a lot of sweat equity (top of slab to bottom of washed rock 14-16") but if the cabin is staying in the family for the next generation and not becomng an insurance burn.......this would be the cadilac fix.
Didnt read the article suggested - there may be other ideas on the interweb but you now have my 2 cents.
Sorry for killing your swimming pool Ric.

 

[ferniesnow]

I look after an Alberta house and have been looking after it for quite a few years. When the basement was dug there was a "creek" flowing through over the bed rock. Contractor at the time said, "no problem once the floor is down". It has been a head ache ever since with water coming up between the floor and the wall. The spring still flows, it has changed direction resulting in another sump install, and every spring the basement is wet even with two sumps installed.

Do it right Curtis!

IMO, Snochuk has sage advise. A lot of work but you will not be happy with a wet basement every spring.

 

[SLEDBUNNYRACING]

I've decided not to go with Aric's idea of a swimming pool.....lol
After much great input (thanks guys) and Internet reading I've decided to run inside perimeter weeping tile tied into the sump. I may also add a run in a semicircle through the middle to make sure I never have a problem in the future.
Again....THANKS everyone.


Tapatalk....well I'm happy with you now....thanks for the fix.

 

[TylerG]

I've decided not to go with Aric's idea of a swimming pool.....lol
After much great input (thanks guys) and Internet reading I've decided to run inside perimeter weeping tile tied into the sump. I may also add a run in a semicircle through the middle to make sure I never have a problem in the future.
Again....THANKS everyone.


Tapatalk....well I'm happy with you now....thanks for the fix.

what if you let it fill with water, drop the temps super low and create a skating rink?

 

[Lund]

Projects and me just don't work well together sometimes.
LOOK'N FOR SOME ADVISE
Have a cabin with 600 sq ft basement and we have never poured the floor (take pages to explain why).
Last fall we contacted a cement guy to do the work, we want to save by investing in sweat equity.
Ric, Hart, Cj, Diane and myself have leveled and tamped the gravel in preparation for pouring cement in a few weeks.
PROBLEM: there was about 1/2" of water in areas this spring, I vac'd it out and some water is still returning.
CEMENT GUY: says not good, could force water up around edges in future and may cause other problems.
SOLUTION: add weeping tile and gravel from those wet areas back to the sump pump to stop it from causing problems in the future. That means a ton of work hauling out gravel that is already tamped and then haul in correct rock for weeping time.
MT THOUGHTS:
Is my current weeping tile around building not working right?
Is my tie in to the sump bucket not right?

SUGGESTIONS: would be very welcomed. I don't want to dig up the work I've done to install 3 runs of 20' of weeping tile to fix this.

IDEAS?


Tapatalk....well I'm happy with you now....thanks for the fix.

You will need to make sure the water has a way to get out, so yes a good drainage is a must in your situation. My father owned and operated a foundation company in the 70s in Vancouver and pretty much built a large portion of Surrey at the time. Water drainage and hydraulic's was always an issue there as most of this area is on solid rock or clay. I worked with him as a young guy and have experience your situation several times.
My advise is also make sure you put steel into your floor and not the mesh but rebar and pour atleast 6" thick.

 

[SLEDBUNNYRACING]

what if you let it fill with water, drop the temps super low and create a skating rink?

Great idea Tyler..............NOT....lol


Tapatalk....well I'm happy with you now....thanks for the fix.

 

[Bnorth]

what if you let it fill with water, drop the temps super low and create a skating rink?

Ok Ricky.

 

[SLEDBUNNYRACING]

You will need to make sure the water has a way to get out, so yes a good drainage is a must in your situation. My father owned and operated a foundation company in the 70s in Vancouver and pretty much built a large portion of Surrey at the time. Water drainage and hydraulic's was always an issue there as most of this area is on solid rock or clay. I worked with him as a young guy and have experience your situation several times.
My advise is also make sure you put steel into your floor and not the mesh but rebar and pour atleast 6" thick.

We are laying Poly and rebar tied.
Cement guy has said 4" will be fine as long as the water issue is addressed.....and addressed it will be.
Thanks.


Tapatalk....well I'm happy with you now....thanks for the fix.