buying renegade

[dragn]

Hey so I'm going to be buying a used renegade 800 what should I be looking out for as I would hate to buy a lemon

 

[rknight111]

what year.

I have a 2007 renegade, great quad they can take a beating. I can certainly tell you most of the issues and fixes

 

[Brute Force Boy]

I had a 2010 xxc renegade for about a year, the only issues I had were electrical that may have been caused by myself blasting through every water whole I could find, be sure to grease all your electrical connections! Oh, and buy a good rain suit cause you'll be covered in mud after about the first five minutes of every ride

 

[dragn]

Ok but what things should I look out for like in your opinion what are things to check to see if it was.actually well mantained or not

 

[DaveB]

-Check the spar frame for straightness underneath. Look for kinks in the frame where the lower A-arms attach, indicating a possible hard contact by a front tire.
-Look for loose trailing arms on the rear...easy fix, but the bearing is pricy.
-Listen to the motor...should fire up INSTANTLY. Valves should be adjusted periodically. A light "thok thok thok" fro the primary clutch at idle is normal. It's louder if it has snorkels.
-Look in the airbox for evidence of it being swamped...if you see mud and crud in there, RUN. V-twins do not respond well to being sunk....I don't care how many times the oil got changed...the motor 99 times out of 100 will be done very soon.
-check usual stuff like wheel bearings, tie rod ends and ball joints...have a bud lift each corner while you shake the wheels. This is easy fix-maintenance stuff, but you'll want to offer less if you need to do these repairs.
-Grab both driveshafts and give 'em a shake. U-joints need regular greasing on Can Ams or they are done. Aftermarket u-joints don't last...BRP ones do but they are spendy.
-go for a spin...verify smooth clutch engagement. Verify low, high, and reverse....listen for noises.
-look for leaks on the diffs and the motor. Valve covers often leak. BRP upgraded to a harder material for 2010 and the new valve covers are only 18 bucks or something...cheap-cheap. Good negotiating tactic that you have to fix leaks...maybe dump a couple hun off the price for something you can fix in an hour for 40 bucks.

Pecos and I looked at 3 Outtys yesterday for his son...walked away from them. One was a decent buy, but when presented with the fact that it would need about 1000 bucks in work, he wouldn't dump his price, so Pecos walked.

good luck.

 

[SammyTson]

-Check the spar frame for straightness underneath. Look for kinks in the frame where the lower A-arms attach, indicating a possible hard contact by a front tire.
-Look for loose trailing arms on the rear...easy fix, but the bearing is pricy.
-Listen to the motor...should fire up INSTANTLY. Valves should be adjusted periodically. A light "thok thok thok" fro the primary clutch at idle is normal. It's louder if it has snorkels.
-Look in the airbox for evidence of it being swamped...if you see mud and crud in there, RUN. V-twins do not respond well to being sunk....I don't care how many times the oil got changed...the motor 99 times out of 100 will be done very soon.
-check usual stuff like wheel bearings, tie rod ends and ball joints...have a bud lift each corner while you shake the wheels. This is easy fix-maintenance stuff, but you'll want to offer less if you need to do these repairs.
-Grab both driveshafts and give 'em a shake. U-joints need regular greasing on Can Ams or they are done. Aftermarket u-joints don't last...BRP ones do but they are spendy.
-go for a spin...verify smooth clutch engagement. Verify low, high, and reverse....listen for noises.
-look for leaks on the diffs and the motor. Valve covers often leak. BRP upgraded to a harder material for 2010 and the new valve covers are only 18 bucks or something...cheap-cheap. Good negotiating tactic that you have to fix leaks...maybe dump a couple hun off the price for something you can fix in an hour for 40 bucks.

Pecos and I looked at 3 Outtys yesterday for his son...walked away from them. One was a decent buy, but when presented with the fact that it would need about 1000 bucks in work, he wouldn't dump his price, so Pecos walked.

good luck.

Thanks for mentioning the airbox, I probably wouldn't have remembered to check there. And just to clarify for my own personal reference, what noises exactly should I be listening for when I take it for a spin outside of the thok thok from the primary clutch?

 

[storm1972]

-Check the spar frame for straightness underneath. Look for kinks in the frame where the lower A-arms attach, indicating a possible hard contact by a front tire.
-Look for loose trailing arms on the rear...easy fix, but the bearing is pricy.
-Listen to the motor...should fire up INSTANTLY. Valves should be adjusted periodically. A light "thok thok thok" fro the primary clutch at idle is normal. It's louder if it has snorkels.
-Look in the airbox for evidence of it being swamped...if you see mud and crud in there, RUN. V-twins do not respond well to being sunk....I don't care how many times the oil got changed...the motor 99 times out of 100 will be done very soon.
-check usual stuff like wheel bearings, tie rod ends and ball joints...have a bud lift each corner while you shake the wheels. This is easy fix-maintenance stuff, but you'll want to offer less if you need to do these repairs.
-Grab both driveshafts and give 'em a shake. U-joints need regular greasing on Can Ams or they are done. Aftermarket u-joints don't last...BRP ones do but they are spendy.
-go for a spin...verify smooth clutch engagement. Verify low, high, and reverse....listen for noises.
-look for leaks on the diffs and the motor. Valve covers often leak. BRP upgraded to a harder material for 2010 and the new valve covers are only 18 bucks or something...cheap-cheap. Good negotiating tactic that you have to fix leaks...maybe dump a couple hun off the price for something you can fix in an hour for 40 bucks.

Pecos and I looked at 3 Outtys yesterday for his son...walked away from them. One was a decent buy, but when presented with the fact that it would need about 1000 bucks in work, he wouldn't dump his price, so Pecos walked.

good luck.

are you set on an outty Dave? I have a friend in town that is thinking about selling his rene , ill post a pic for you

 

[DaveB]

Thanks for mentioning the airbox, I probably wouldn't have remembered to check there. And just to clarify for my own personal reference, what noises exactly should I be listening for when I take it for a spin outside of the thok thok from the primary clutch?

Listen for valve noise or piston slap...generally the V-twins run real smooth, so there shouldn't be too much for "bad" noises.

Storm: it's for a 12 year old (who's been riding since he was 5) so Pecos wants a 400 or 500. If that is a 500 Renny he might be interested.

 

[Carrots]

Yep make sure the air box doesn't look like this. Also Check the gas tank too cause if the vent gets plugged the whole gas tank will suck itself in on it's self


Sent from a iPhone

 

[the450kid]

Dave,

I have a 09 rene 500 that i bought for the gf last year. its for sale, actually Good and Grubby has it listed on kijji for me as i am away at work. Check the ad#365538760
I am willing to move on the price and there have been a few recent developments that require this gone asap. Pm me if you more questions.

Thanks
Dave

 

[storm1972]

Listen for valve noise or piston slap...generally the V-twins run real smooth, so there shouldn't be too much for "bad" noises.

Storm: it's for a 12 year old (who's been riding since he was 5) so Pecos wants a 400 or 500. If that is a 500 Renny he might be interested.

sadly no its an 800 Dave, helluvah nice machine though, didnt realize the boy was only 12

 

[DaveB]

Dave,

I have a 09 rene 500 that i bought for the gf last year. its for sale, actually Good and Grubby has it listed on kijji for me as i am away at work. Check the ad#365538760
I am willing to move on the price and there have been a few recent developments that require this gone asap. Pm me if you more questions.

Thanks
Dave

Pecos knows Grubby....I'll pass this along dude.

 

[dragn]

just another question when shifting the quad from neutral the high whas the best way the couple i have went to sort of just clicked in am i doing somthing wrong

 

[kovs]

another good thing to ask about is the transmission, did they change the oil in it regularly? if they say ya it had regular engine oil changes i would be shy of it, its suprising how many people dont know its seperate on them and should be changed more than the engine oil especially if you mud.

 

[dragn]

ok thanks, but how u shift them

 

[DaveB]

ok thanks, but how u shift them

Stop, hold brake, place lever in P, R, N, L, or H....what are you missing? The transmission is a CVT like a snowmobile.

 

[dragn]

well on the wolverine if u held the brake it shifted in smoothing no sounds or anything with the renegade 800 it clicks. guess just more horse power and bigger engine can do it

 

[SlowKrawl]

well on the wolverine if u held the brake it shifted in smoothing no sounds or anything with the renegade 800 it clicks. guess just more horse power and bigger engine can do it

If you are trying to pull it into another gear and it won't go, either rock the machine back and forth a bit or burp the throttle. And by burp the throttle I don't mean put it to the bar lol. My old mans 07 400 does it quite a bit, havn't noticed it on my quad though.