Just put a secondary from a Nytro on my 18 sidewinder. I have a 47* straight helix, epi purple set at 1-0 and 2mm of end play in my setup. Is this a good starting point or is it out to lunch? I am running the Hurricane 270 tune. Thanks, been battling this thing since new so trying this clutch is my last attempt this season.
Button secondary on SW
- Thread starter old700
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M1ryguy
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I put a apex primary on for this season and am waiting for my nytro secondary in the mail, I have a cat white spring which is close to your epi purple, going to set it at 1-0 and 2-3mm of float. I could'nt decide if its the primary or the secondary causing the issues so I went with both. Have you checked your offset? Mine was out, pulled my stub shaft bearing and installed with loctite, set my offset at 58mm as per the hurricane alignment tool. Let me know how yours makes out with the new secondary, hopefully we get these things figured out.
M1ryguy
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What belt are you planning on running? I grabbed an xs825 but thinking I might try the 8DN as its supposed to be harder and with the big secondary spring might work better?
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I have a new 8DN set up right now so will try it just to see. I have got quite a few miles on some of the 8JP belts and have quite a few good spares so more than likely will use them also. I’ve always liked running OEM.
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- #5
I should probably set up the clutch offset based on the viper specs as well I’m assuming. The viper measurement is taken from the back of primary to the back of secondary, where the sidewinder is measured from the back of primary to front of secondary. Anybody have any insight on this?
M1ryguy
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I would think the hurricane alignment tool would be good for this as it sits in the middle of the secondary and references that off of the primary, if you want I have one you can borrow.
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- #7
So just put on 250km with the Oem primary and viper secondary. Zero complaints with the secondary setup but was running a bit too much weight in the primary as I was about 8200 in the deep wet heavy snow. However, the primary roller bushings that were brand new are beyond the service limit already. I took a few temp readings throughout the day after some hard riding and was typically 180ish primary sheave, 170ish secondary sheave, and 215ish belt. This is with an 8DN belt. Going to put the viper primary on I was using last season and check temps next ride. I’m not sure if these temps are good or not, but the motor runs at 175 all day so don’t think I can get temps down much more than that.
M1ryguy
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That’s awesome, I had good luck too with the new clutches, pulls like a freight train compared to a stocker
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M1ryguy
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Did you go 174? I'm wondering if I can just do spindles and keep my stock rails? Maybe move the rear suspension mounting hole down one like yours is setup.
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- #11
Mines still 162, I cut my tunnel last year. With the elevate rails you drill out the front skid mount lower and use the lowest rear hole. Not sure how just using spindles would work, but if your going 174 with Iceage rails, they may have a solution. Are you using the CR resonator as well?
M1ryguy
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Ya makes sense, I am not going 174. I have the CR straight pipe and intake.
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- #13
Ok. I’m going to build a straight pipe in the next couple nights and try it out. My sled kills primary roller bushings in under 200km. The apex primary and button secondary together will be a new combo for me next ride, but I’m at the point that maybe my clutch issues is a resonance thing. Lol! Buy a Yamaha they said! Lol
Lunch_Box
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I have a straight pipe from my sled sitting in the shop no longer being used if you dont feel like making one. Had to change the exhaust when I went with the Ascender plastics.
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M1ryguy
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Are you killing the roller bushings on the stock primary or the old style primary? How do you figure it could be from your exhaust? That would be a new one lol If your alignment is good check your center to center, mine was 264mm I believe, and are you running a belt adjuster?
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- #16
I put 700km on an apex primary last year with no roller failure then the clutch spider glide pieces failed and I destroyed the whole clutch. I’m not sure why it failed, I suspect heat. The exhaust idea stems from some harmonics/vibration issues I’ve had in past hot rods, but yes prob unlikely. I measured C to C this morning and it’s at 260mm. No I don’t run an adjuster, I use the shims and tighten belt to just before sled creeps
M1ryguy
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Ok right on, your center to center is just out of spec, not sure how a guy fixes that though as the motor mounts cant really be adjusted on the 998, maybe a couple mm of play. Only thing you could check is the clutch parallels I guess if you were really eager lol and go over your secondary buttons to make sure they are good as well. I can put my hands on both clutches after back to back pulls and they are hardly even warm when last year I could snap a belt at will and the clutches would be burning my hands just from the trail ride up. You are there I think, you have done all the stuff lol hopefully the old primary fixes your heat issues. I also set my float at 2mm in the secondary FYI.
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- #18
Do you know what Center to Center spec is? I have a service manual and I don’t think it says in there. Parallelism was something I’m going to check here as well, but I also looked and don’t really see a way to adjust that if needed.
M1ryguy
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CTC is 262-267mm
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