Break in period 14 m8000

[Cat401]

This is also right from the 2015 owners manual......

Drive Belt Break-In
Drive belts require a break-in period of approx. 25 miles. Drive the snowmobile for 25 miles at 3/4 throttle or less. By revving the engine up and down (but not exceeding 60 mph), the exposed cord on the side of a new belt will be worn down. This will allow the drive belt to gain its optimum flexibility and will extend drive belt life.

 

[TROLLCAT]

Ok so all things I can do myself. So if i don't bring it in will this void warranty in any way?

no should not void warranty

 

[drift_devil69]

This is also right from the 2015 owners manual......

Drive Belt Break-In
Drive belts require a break-in period of approx. 25 miles. Drive the snowmobile for 25 miles at 3/4 throttle or less. By revving the engine up and down (but not exceeding 60 mph), the exposed cord on the side of a new belt will be worn down. This will allow the drive belt to gain its optimum flexibility and will extend drive belt life.

good to no tks guy i need to break in my sled 14 m8000 just meed more snow now

 

[X-Treme]

So, for this "heat cycle", do you just let it idle up to full temp, or do you ride it around the yard, or what?

 

[TROLLCAT]

So, for this "heat cycle", do you just let it idle up to full temp, or do you ride it around the yard, or what?

idle ...

 

[Mike270412]

As some of the dealers already mentioned;this is done during PDI. Your dealer may already have done this for you.

 

[X-Treme]

I'm kinda guessing that my dealer didn't. Lol. Good thing I got a screamin deal. Skis weren't even aligned properly. Won't hurt to do it myself anyway, and I'll get to smell the sweet scent of 2 stroke love.

 

[moyiesledhead]

This is also right from the 2015 owners manual......

Drive Belt Break-In
Drive belts require a break-in period of approx. 25 miles. Drive the snowmobile for 25 miles at 3/4 throttle or less. By revving the engine up and down (but not exceeding 60 mph), the exposed cord on the side of a new belt will be worn down. This will allow the drive belt to gain its optimum flexibility and will extend drive belt life.

Should also wash the mold release wax off of them before you use them. Hard to find that one written down anywhere.

 

[mountianguy]

Should also wash the mold release wax off of them before you use them. Hard to find that one written down anywhere.

Good point i always do it but forget to tell everyone. Dish soap and warm water for me.

 

[McGrath]

There sure are a lot of opinions on this one. I will be heat cycling my engine the first day and breaking in both belts after that short bursts until the first 100/1 tank is done .Then ride the way you like. These engines take about 500 miles to reach full power and there really is no way to shorten that. I dont buy the mineral oil theory as i have broken in many gas and diesel engines on full syn with no issues.The heat cycle is more important to me than oil or how you drive. But thats just me.

I have to agree most important part is a few heat cycles. I have to say this before going on here is I do work a Alberta Cycle. When we do the PDI this is part of the set up along with oil added to the tank. Most people probably don't realize this is just part of the job. I'm pretty sure Terry also does this for his customers. The belt break in? Hmmm when I was a decent hill climb guy I never broke no belts, but my clutches were always inline and serviced cleaned weekly. Cracks, roollers, and engine mounts are the biggest cause for belt problems, service the **** out of these things. Never seen full blown funny cars break in a belt!

Thx Mike

 

[McGrath]

need to keep the belt adjusted, and greased

Grease, oil, or any lubricant will ruin your rollers and helix, attracting belt dust therefor gumming them up. Stay away from this old wives tail. Keep them clean and tarp sleds on open decks. Salt is a big killer.

 

[TROLLCAT]

Grease, oil, or any lubricant will ruin your rollers and helix, attracting belt dust therefor gumming them up. Stay away from this old wives tail. Keep them clean and tarp sleds on open decks. Salt is a big killer.

oops my bad I did mean the suspension in the track for the grease :d

 

[Cat401]

oops my bad I did mean the suspension in the track for the grease :d

damn...........after reading your post I went out and greased my belt......lol

 

[marcel.]

damn...........after reading your post I went out and greased my belt......lol

You must hook up real well now haha

 

[Highfly]

I just had my 800 rebuilt by Indy Specialty, I went with him becasue of his reputation and three year engine warranty. He sent a break in procedure that I will share with you. It includes heat soaking....

"Very Important! Start motor and warm up to operating temp then let it completely cool. Repeat this operation a few times. Your motor is now ready to ride. Please Note Heat soaking is the single most important thing you can do to prolong the life of your motor. The colder the temp is the more important and longer this will take. Start the motor and let warm up a little. (no need to get it to operating temp yet). Shut off and let heat soak at least 10 minutes, then start and bring to operating temp. To protect belt from prolonged idling you may wish to pull the belt down into the driven a little so it is not pulling on the drive clutch. Extended idling will over heat the belt if it is shimmed correctly. Make sure the track is not frozen to the ground. You will increase belt life from these procedures. Also track warm up on a stand is the best way to get all drive components ready to ride. Remember, pound for pound your sled motor is close to the same power to weight as a Nascar motor and they are not started or used in sub zero weather and treated like royalty.
The crank case and crankshaft tolerances have been changed over the past few years. Please take the time to break your bottom end in. After heat cycling give your motor short full throttle runs only and do not do any extended full throttle pulls in deep snow. Do not do any long hill full throttle climbs for 300 miles. After these steps have been taken RIDE IT LIKE A RENTAL and enjoy your new torquemaster and many years of trouble free riding."

 

[suzuki_ryder]

I have to agree most important part is a few heat cycles. I have to say this before going on here is I do work a Alberta Cycle. When we do the PDI this is part of the set up along with oil added to the tank. Most people probably don't realize this is just part of the job. I'm pretty sure Terry also does this for his customers. The belt break in? Hmmm when I was a decent hill climb guy I never broke no belts, but my clutches were always inline and serviced cleaned weekly. Cracks, roollers, and engine mounts are the biggest cause for belt problems, service the **** out of these things. Never seen full blown funny cars break in a belt!

Thx Mike

You work at Alberta cycle? Or own Alberta cycle? Just putting your signature and forum name together.


Sent from my iPhone

 

[devildogg]

I broke mine in on sat, had about 15km easy with start and stops to cool it off but then there was this big hill to get here



so it was to the bar ......I Like the way this sled runs

 

[killerrf]

When I had my 09 m1000 I had cat instructions to heat soak motor 3 times. It said to let eng warm up then on a track stand rev eng between idle to no more than 6000 rpm and to do that until eng temp light starts flashing. Keep going until eng temp light stays on. Then shut down and let fully cool off and repeat 2 more times. My 1000 had almost 3000 miles and pulled strong like from day one. Never did this to my 13 proclimb but I was thinking of maybe soaking the 15 proclimb I picked up.
forgot to mention that u will have to spray sliders with some water. Loosen track a bit.