Battery light flashing and engine light on 2013 pro 800.

[ABMax24]

Just had this battery indictator and CEL come on my sled....and my sled doesn’t even have a battery

Im running approx 75/25 av/94 (there was leftover 94 in tank)

Im also experiencing hard starting problems. I have to pull the rope 3-4 times rapidly to get it to fire. When I say rapidly I mean I don’t let it wind all the way back in and have to pull.

Mine is turbo’d, never had the starting issues pre-turbo

Start with this to read the trouble code:

 

[ABMax24]

I'm going to say its a voltage issue, bad voltage regulator, magneto, short to ground, but possibly even a bad fuel pump.

 

[gdhillon]

I'm going to say its a voltage issue, bad voltage regulator, magneto, short to ground, but possibly even a bad fuel pump.

Not really sure what it was but it’s gone now, we unplugged diode to check connection and tried a different VR. There is no lights now. Stator was at 13.6
The code we pulled was dc voltage

Not sure what the Oiler is at now but after reading about your crank I want to turn it up max as well. I’m guessing ‘max’ is just all the way right?

So that’s like a 250ml water bottle ves per tank that you are doing?

 

[ABMax24]

Not really sure what it was but it’s gone now, we unplugged diode to check connection and tried a different VR. There is no lights now. Stator was at 13.6
The code we pulled was dc voltage

Not sure what the Oiler is at now but after reading about your crank I want to turn it up max as well. I’m guessing ‘max’ is just all the way right?

So that’s like a 250ml water bottle ves per tank that you are doing?

Yeah pretty much, turn up the adjuster. There is a mark on the pump cam and pump housing that you line up when in stock form, mines adjusted just outside of that notch. I'm was running closer to 500mL per tank, but I found that my oil cap wasn't venting properly either, so once I replaced that and got more oil through the pump I'm running closer to 350mL per tank again. I am not running VES oil though, some claim it doesn't mix as well with fuel. I run Amsoil Dominator in the tank and for premix, it is also supposed to be compatible with leaded fuels like race fuel and avgas.

 

[gdhillon]

Yeah pretty much, turn up the adjuster. There is a mark on the pump cam and pump housing that you line up when in stock form, mines adjusted just outside of that notch. I'm was running closer to 500mL per tank, but I found that my oil cap wasn't venting properly either, so once I replaced that and got more oil through the pump I'm running closer to 350mL per tank again. I am not running VES oil though, some claim it doesn't mix as well with fuel. I run Amsoil Dominator in the tank and for premix, it is also supposed to be compatible with leaded fuels like race fuel and avgas.

I have a brp oil cap on mine, seems to use a decent amount of oil. But yea I’ll def crank the sucker up.
Interesting, do you run the AMsoil in the oil tank as well?

 

[ABMax24]

I have a brp oil cap on mine, seems to use a decent amount of oil. But yea I’ll def crank the sucker up.
Interesting, do you run the AMsoil in the oil tank as well?

Yes in the oil tank and pre-mixed. Not sure if for worse or better but haven't had an issue with it. The crank failure I had was clearly due to no oil, everything was dry, I also replaced the oil pump at that time because I suspect it was bad. Every other time I've been into the motor the red colored oil has been everywhere, and is doing it's job.

In my opinion though as long as the oil mixes well with the fuel I don't think it matters too much what brand you use as long as it's a name brand snowmobile oil.

 

[gdhillon]

Last year I figured my issue was a bad oil pump, I’m now running the sleds oil through the turbo to get rid of that extra pump and oil reservoir

I am now getting a 167-4 code (guage backlight is flashing on /off with cel and engine light)
-I opened up the wiring bundle by the clutch. Noticed when wii move the capacitor around my guage flickers and the cel/batt light comes on

currently looking up how to test that capacitor, can I split the black bag to check the connections on the cap itself?

 

[ABMax24]

Last year I figured my issue was a bad oil pump, I’m now running the sleds oil through the turbo to get rid of that extra pump and oil reservoir

I am now getting a 167-4 code (guage backlight is flashing on /off with cel and engine light)
-I opened up the wiring bundle by the clutch. Noticed when wii move the capacitor around my guage flickers and the cel/batt light comes on

currently looking up how to test that capacitor, can I split the black bag to check the connections on the cap itself?

All the black electrical bags on the pros have velcro on them, just find that and open it up. My guess is it's just a loose connection in one of the plugs.

 

[HotShotHarry]

If I remember correctly,that code is battery voltage low-chassis. When I had that issue, it turned out to be the O2 sensor for my AFR guage. I burn straight AV gas which can plug the sensor and cause it to draw too much power.

 

[gdhillon]

All the black electrical bags on the pros have velcro on them, just find that and open it up. My guess is it's just a loose connection in one of the plugs.

I have that bag open, there is a small rubber sort of bag that the capacitor is in. Can I cut that open to test the capacitor leads?....I’m thinking they may need to be resoldered on?

I am thinking that’s the case because when I move that rubber bag with the cap in it my guage blinks and the backlighting of the guage turns on and off...also the cel and battery light come on at the same time

 

[gdhillon]

If I remember correctly,that code is battery voltage low-chassis. When I had that issue, it turned out to be the O2 sensor for my AFR guage. I burn straight AV gas which can plug the sensor and cause it to draw too much power.

ah yes, that makes sense. I also have ran straight av, do you just pull it out and soak with brake clean sorta deal?

 

[HotShotHarry]

No. It will have to be replaced.Try unplugging the sensor and see if the cel goes out