Banshee help

[numbnuts918]

Im going to look at a Banshee this weekend & need help in identifying the year it is. From the guy who has it told me he bought it from another guy stating it was a 2000. It was rattle can (flat black) sprayed & some of the chips coming off are revealing a purple plastic underneath. My thoughts are either its a 97 or it has diff plastics on it from past damage. Any ideas of what to look for on engine-frame codes to get the year? Its got a dual intake to single carb. Thanks for any help.

 

[intmid8or!]

vin gone?

 

[ASEMotorsportsTyler]

yup get the vin and then call a Yamaha dealership they should be able to tell ya the year from the vin!

 

[SAVAGE420]

Below is how to tell the year of your atv/bike going by the frame VIN, you want to look at the 10th digit on the frame and compare from there.

A 1980
B 1981
C 1982
D 1983
E 1984
F 1985
G 1986
H 1987
I not used
J 1988
K 1989
L 1990
M 1991
N 1992
O not used
P 1993
Q not used
R 1994
S 1995
T 1996
U not used
V 1997
W 1998
X 1999
Y 2000
Z not used

Beginning with 2001, numbers are used to designate the model year.

1 2001
2 2002
3 2003
4 2004
5 2005
6 2006
7 2007
8 2008
9 2009

Back to letters apparently:

A - 2010
B - 2011
C - 2012
D - 2013
etc.


Now this is how you tell what year your engine is.

87- 2GU-000101-030100
88- 2GU-030101- ON
89- 3GG-000101- ON
90- 3GG-010101-024100
90- 3GG-024101-025100
91- 3GG-025101- ON
92- 3GG-036101- ON
93- 3GG-049101- ON
94- 3GG-059101- ON
95- 3GG-069101- ON
96- 3GG-079101- ON
97- 3GG-089101- ON
98- 3GG-130101- ON
99- 3GG-150917- ON
...and so on.

If you need more Banshee engine #'s, RZ or RD #'s or help, just ask!

Here is a free VIN Decoder as well.

Another link to tell you what every number/letters means on any bikes vin. From where it came from , assembly plant ect ect and so on. http://www.atvstyle.com/atv-vin-number



~Savage420~

 

[numbnuts918]

Awesome. Thanks guys! I think the VIN is still on the frame at the yolk where the tree is attached, is the engine # on the right side casting of the bottom end? Very helpful info Savage! What year incorporated the dual intake single carb design? Or is that an aftermarket option? Is the single carb design a more reliable way to go? I was told this by another dealer/mechanic stating it was difficult to tune the duals to run efficiently? I plan on doing a compression test too, what should be the correct allowable compression on that twin? Thanks!

 

[ghglenn]

The two intake with one carb is aftermarket. Makes it easier for jetting, if you are having to do that much. People feel it does make it a little crisper in the response on the bottom, but makes the top end fall flat on it's face. Syncing the carbs isn't really that difficult (most "mechanics" better be able to do this). One thing that I would suggest if you leave the stockers is to replace the throttle cables... 10+ years of use on two carbs (and most are never changed)...makes for a sore thumb. Wouldn't be a bad idea to clean/rebuild the carbs, as well. Also, replace the clutch cable ASAP too, most are neglected.
If it has the factory air filter and intake (it shouldn't) get rid of it and get an after market with the billet adapter (i.e. ProDesign)... Let us know what you get....

Good luck with the hunt.

...also I have some YFZ A-arms for sale when you are ready to make it +2 inches wider...lol.

 

[numbnuts918]

I got one this weekend!! Looked at 4 of them & settled on a 98 model bone stock motor & exhaust. It has a widening kit on the front & 2 1/2" rear spacers. All the plastic is mint & the only visual defect is the front bumper thats dented. It runs out pretty good (seems a bit tired) & shifts great. 1 size smaller than stock tires (ITP) in nice shape as well. I almost bought a nice 01 that had a fresh .30 over bore that ran like a raped ape, but wanted a stock bore that I can work with if need be. Mines a little boggy in the bottom end but I have yet to do a compression test & in depth look over. Looking for a front bumper now. Any ideas of where to find one? (Aftermarket) What about an exhaust kit? I love Toomeys but FMF's sound great too. Im worried about getting nailed on the trails with too high of a DB rating. Any ideas of how to get a little more snap out of it without waking the dead?

 

[ghglenn]

The best pipes for more bottom grunt (trails), IMHO, are Paul Turner's from Duncan. I had a National motor from Duncan Racing with "Paul Turners" and my Banshee "barked" like a CR 500. Mind you, I didn't spend time drag racing with the straight-liners, I was all about MXing, hard duning, and serious trail riding. Another feature I liked about them was how the head pipes wrapped around each other, tucking them under the frame more. If you are into hang it out and sliding hard around turns, the other pipes stick out and can burn the leg...something to consider. It is all about how you plan to use it. If it is bone stock, a pipe, intake, and jetting to compensate will wake it up noticeably.

 

[numbnuts918]

Whats everybody running fuel mix wise for the Banshee? Mines bone stock....for now. What type of oil do you recommend & what octane?

 

[flying frenchman]

For a stock Banshee I would mix it 32:1 ratio, any 2 stroke oil and premium is fine. You could go 40:1 but using more oil is alot safer than blowing your motor because a Banshee doesn't turn at 6000-7500 rpms like other 2 strokes it loves revs. Make sure your fuel doesn't get to old or you'll have a poor running Banshee, like I mean it will bog alot on bottom end. Try to have fresh fuel most of the time.