Arctic Cat ATV Primary Machining

[CountryRider]

Hey, I might be reaching a bit, I'm not finding much local support in tackling my clutch mods.

Backstory
-2010 Mudpro 1000 H2 own since new
Mods
-HMF XL exhaust
-Rad relocate
-Swapped from stock mudzillas to 30x9 silverbacks
-3" highlifter bracket lift (near future potentially 4"15% portals)
-Half a speedwerx hypershift clutch kit non shimmed primary, speedwerx 4x20g and 4x25g weights from the 8xstock 33.25g upgraded #42 wet clutch springs 1800rpm engagement Secondary stock helix and spring clocked to B2

Rear headgasket went on it 2 years ago I hadn't touched it until a month ago.

It's back up and running now and I'm looking to attempt primary clutch machining. From there potentially play around with weights to gain back bottom end bite. I'm curious if there has been any other DIY/machinists/advanced tinkerers who have attempted a machining of their primary. I'm unaware of anybody local that does this. I was thinking of removing 1-1.5mm from the bottom of the sheeve in a slight straight cut/taper fashion to the mid-height of the sheeve to maintain top end profile. (Matched profile to both stationary and moving sheeve will be done).


Just looking for some fellow DIY/machinists/advanced tinkerers insight.

machining primary clutch

www.arcticchat.com

 

[ippielb]

I have a 2012 mudpro 1000, my clutches have been machined by airdam. The full kit. I have 29.5” outlaw 2’s. While I had it apart I wish I lightened the rollers. But with the clutch machining it doesn’t hesitate.

I have a larger diameter wet clutch and drum/shaft that I wanted to put in. But the 1000 case is different then the 700 and there’s not enough clearance in the case which is unfortunate. That would’ve made my mudpro completed.

2012 mudpro 1000
Rjwc exhaust
Billet diff covers
Rear diff brace
SLD welded
Airdam clutch machining and mods
29.5” outlaw 2’s

 

[CountryRider]

I have a 2012 mudpro 1000, my clutches have been machined by airdam. The full kit. I have 29.5” outlaw 2’s. While I had it apart I wish I lightened the rollers. But with the clutch machining it doesn’t hesitate.

I have a larger diameter wet clutch and drum/shaft that I wanted to put in. But the 1000 case is different then the 700 and there’s not enough clearance in the case which is unfortunate. That would’ve made my mudpro completed.

2012 mudpro 1000
Rjwc exhaust
Billet diff covers
Rear diff brace
SLD welded
Airdam clutch machining and mods
29.5” outlaw 2’s

Did u just get the primary machined, or did you get the ramp plate machined also to allow the belt to ride higher on top end? Would be pricey to ship primary and machine in the states now a days, wish there was something a little more local. I'm really tempted to just do it myself!

Curious about your bigger wet clutch and drum situation. What was your thoughts on executing that?

I've read alot of guys that shaved their clutch ran 30gr rollers and clocked secondary with stock helix to b2 up to 30" and anything above that to a2.

Did you have experience braking diffs with the SLD welded? I have a slug coming in and was curious what potential carnage is to come haha.

 

[ippielb]

Did u just get the primary machined, or did you get the ramp plate machined also to allow the belt to ride higher on top end? Would be pricey to ship primary and machine in the states now a days, wish there was something a little more local. I'm really tempted to just do it myself!

Curious about your bigger wet clutch and drum situation. What was your thoughts on executing that?

I've read alot of guys that shaved their clutch ran 30gr rollers and clocked secondary with stock helix to b2 up to 30" and anything above that to a2.

Did you have experience braking diffs with the SLD welded? I have a slug coming in and was curious what potential carnage is to come haha.

Got primary machined. The ramps cut and welded. And changed a couple things in secondary for the life of me I can’t remember. It’s been 9 years since I did it.

The bigger wet clutch and drum had the heavier springs. As well as 20% larger surface area. Eliminating even more slip from the drive line. But it never fit.

Never broke a diff with the SLD welded. All you had to do was cut some grooves in it and weld it up in the grove and grind it back down to fit. Saved myself money doing that.

I will recommend the diff brace in the rear and getting a billet rear cover at least. The covers are the weak point they push out and blow up. The billet cover is probably 2-3x thicker.

 

[Dawizman]

AMS balanced the team primary on my sleds. Not sure if they will do much for machining, but worth a call.

 

[CountryRider]

Got primary machined. The ramps cut and welded. And changed a couple things in secondary for the life of me I can’t remember. It’s been 9 years since I did it.

The bigger wet clutch and drum had the heavier springs. As well as 20% larger surface area. Eliminating even more slip from the drive line. But it never fit.

Never broke a diff with the SLD welded. All you had to do was cut some grooves in it and weld it up in the grove and grind it back down to fit. Saved myself money doing that.

I will recommend the diff brace in the rear and getting a billet rear cover at least. The covers are the weak point they push out and blow up. The billet cover is probably 2-3x thicker.

Got pics of ur diff cover and braces? What brand? I was also entertaining putting in 3.6 ratio diffs vs the 3.1s maybe if i end up grenading these 3.1

 

[ippielb]

Got pics of ur diff cover and braces? What brand? I was also entertaining putting in 3.6 ratio diffs vs the 3.1s maybe if i end up grenading these 3.1

Had them on photo bucket but they stopped all free image hosting. So I don’t have any on me quad is in storage for winter. Here is the place I bought them though. Discontinued in 2012 I believe, maybe he’s got a couple left.

rubberdown customs - Rad Re-Location Kits

rubberdown customs - ATV Handle bar extensions or bar ends gives more leverage in tight trail situations and easier steering when you need it most

www.rubberdowncustoms.ca

It’s been a long time since I messed with ATV stuff. But if memory serves me right, the rear diff wants to move in the mounts since they’re not very strong. So when it does it causes the case to flex and break, and then the pinion ring gear combination likes to push away from eachother, don’t recall if it’s taller or lower gears that make it happen.

The permanent fix was a diff brace, and billet cover. I never heard of anyone breaking a differential after having that done. I wrecked one rear end up because the rear axle popped out of the diff when a circlip broke. Wrecked some of the case, but the gears were fine. Ended up finding a new diff on eBay for cheap so bought it instead of fixing my old one.

 

[CountryRider]

UPDATE!!

Just waiting for some wet clutch seals and clutch cover bearings and ill be able to test er up! Took off 1mm inside of each sheave tapering out to stock outside being 0 on the primary, cleaned up good hopefully be an equivalent to a simular 2mm shim bottom bite! Seem to of changed sheave angle by 1 degree!

Secondary sheaves just got the lightest of clean

A guy would have to look a little more if he wants to go to 1.5mm as theres a circlip holding the split bushing just sitting on the outside by a groove!