Anyone using AmSteel Winch Rope for Starter Rope?

[Joelk]

I am going to replace the Starter Rope on my 2001 Polaris XCSP 800 and have ordered some 3/16" AmSteel Winch Rope to use. It has 5400 Pound Average, 4900 Pound Minimum Break Strength.

I have heard of a few (but only a few) If are using it, know anyone using it, or know anything about it, please post what you know.

Thanks, Joel

 

[imdoo'n]

works great, stronger than steel, lighter etc. can wear on rub points but the plus far outweighs the minus. no steel slivers is the biggest plus. i have the blue steel cable and very happy with it.

 

[overkill131313]

where do you buy this from?

 

[megatron customs]

Four wheel parts in edmonton sells it give them a call

 

[Joelk]

I'm getting mine off of E-bay.

I ordered 50' of winch rope which will be more than I need, but I have several sleds so I will probably use a good bit of it.

The guy I ordered if from was very good to deal with. I am away from home, but when I get back next week, if it installs and works good, I will contact him to see if he is interested in offering it in lengths more suitable for recoil starter rope.

What length do you think would be appropriate for fitting a large variety of sleds?

 

[Joelk]

Sorry, I meant to include "AmSteel Blue SYNTHETIC Winch Rope" in the title, but realize now that I left a couple words out.

This is "rope", has no steel or metal in it (at least none that I am aware of) but it is claimed to be STRONGER than steel cable of the same diameter.

If you Google a...ved=0CFcQ1QIoAg - Google Search, you can read more about it.

 

[rmk800]

I use it in my sled, it is not amsteel rope but warn rope. You don't have to worry about breaking it, it least for a few years. Any new sled I will change to this style of rope.

 

[Stocky]

I'm not sure if this applies to the synthetic rope, but SS Badaz had a super strength cable in his '05 900 Polaris. The knot slipped thru the handle in the morning, used the crank to start after that, by the end of the day the rope had frayed so badly the motor had to be taken apart to get all the threads out. Looked like a nasty ol' hairball in the crankcase. I realize the lesson that was learned, but just thought I'd throw in a little food for thought while considering what cord to buy. :d

 

[geelak900]

I am using the Amsteel Blue on mine. Used it on my 05 900 and now have it on my 09 Dragon. Works excellent, very hard to cut. I purchased mine from West Marine in Vancouver, $20 for 14' (enough for two sleds)

 

[Joelk]

geelak900 Is it hard to tie a knot in it? If so, any recommendations on how to get a good secure knot?

The guy I ordered it from is sending me "splicing instructions" with it. Not sure if that will be something I need to do, or if can just tie a normal knot?

 

[geelak900]

No special info required, this rope is a soft and flexible as the normal rope, maybe more. I just tied the same basic knots as the factory rope. What I found is that this rope is extremely hard to cut, you can't cut it with a knife, or a side cutter, or a large pair of snips. Nothing like that even had a chance. What did work very well was a pair of scissors I had with a serrated blade, they worked very well. A knife with a serrated blade would work as well but a smooth blade knife like a utility knife, no chance. I would normally melt the end with a lighter and this stuff is fairly resistent to the heat as well, does not melt like normal rope but it does work well enough to clean up the end.
The stuff is really quite amazing and a very good solution in my opinion, I would highly recommend it.

 

[taalow]

It is not correct geelak.
Generally a knot tied on will reduce the strength by a half. You should "splice" it as the sales guy said. A correct splicing will reduce the strength by 5-15%.
Regards.

 

[geelak900]

I will not argue with that one bit, however, in my application this was not a concern for me. Even with a derate from 5000lbs to 2500lbs it is substantially stronger than required and I would doubt anyone will have any failures on a recoil rope due to this reduced strength
If you are using this for a winching application I would absolutely agree and would not recommend a knot in your winch line......

 

[Joelk]

I got mine and installed it yesterday.

I installed it before reading the last 3 posts and used "normal knots"

Even if I had wanted to splice it, I don't think I could have, as there is very limited space to work with inside the starter housing. At least on my sled there is no room for much more than a basic knot.

Might have been able to use a splice on the handle end, but not much excess room there either.

I think you would have to redesign the "starter spool" and/or handle to be able to effectively use splices.

Agree with geelak, that even if knots reduces the strength by 1/2 it is still pleanty strong. Probably still over 2x as strong as OEM starter rope.

On the engine end, I do not think this is much of an issue as the knot will never see the full force of the pull. There will always (at least on my sled/install) be some rope still on the spool keeping the full force from reaching the knot.

Install was pretty much just like installing OEM rope except for cutting it and threading it through holes. I was able to cut it with a Craftsman Handicutter. Did not cut easily, but I was able to cut it. Does not "thread" through holes as easily as OEM because it is a looser braid. Took some extra time, but no problem.

 

[sirzones]

I carry a 50 ft roll in my back pack,very light and works well to tow sled out or to rescue someone if stuck in deep S&%T :d

 

[Joelk]

The AmSteel should make a great tow/rescue rope, but is kind of expensive.

For that, I use "Mule Tape", also light and strong, and I get it for free.

Used in construction, to pull cables etc through pipes. Many companies discard it after a single use. I have a buddy that does this type of work and keeps me stocked up with slightly used pieces.

Even if you had to buy it, I think it would be much less expensive than AmSteel.

 

[Pappillion]

geelak900 Is it hard to tie a knot in it? If so, any recommendations on how to get a good secure knot?

The guy I ordered it from is sending me "splicing instructions" with it. Not sure if that will be something I need to do, or if can just tie a normal knot?

Tie the knot you want then soak it in super glue (just the knot). I hadn't had a problem with the knots coming undone but was paranoid. Worked just fine for me. I haven't tried this with the rope you are using but it works on other ropes.

 

[Joelk]

Never considered the Super Glue, but that sounds like a good idea. I may try that on any other installs I do.

So far I have done 2 installs using the AmSteel Rope. Seemed to accept normal knots, pretty much just like OEM Starter Rope. IT IS NOT like nylon rope which seems very much inclined not to hold a knot.

OEM had something like silicon sealer in the little compartment on the starter spool where the knot goes in. I put silicon sealer in when I installed.

Can't see what is going on inside the starter, but the knots on the handle end still look very secure.

geelak900 mentioned melting the ends. I tried a match (which works on nylon rope) and it seemed to have little effect. I then tried a propane torch. This worked better and reduced the amount of fraying.

 

[geelak900]

Ditto to ^^^^^. Knots were no problem and haven't had any issues. This rope is very easy to work with. I too siliconed the chamber where the knot is inside the recoil just like the OEM, and yes you need some real heat to get this stuff to melt. I ran this rope all season last year in my sled and it looked as good as new at the end of the year.