Any welders, or body guys looking for extra cash this summer?

RXN

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I'm going to finally fix up that old bondo'd up rust bucket farm truck of mine. It's a 65 chevy C20, and its rough. but I've got too much into it so might as well finish it.

so far these are the parts that have come in:
- Floor pans
- Rocker panels
- Inner rocker panels
- Cab support.

Today I've ordered:
- Front fenders (inner and outer)
- Fender supports
- Fender seals
- Seals and braces for front fenders.

Still need to order:
- Door skins
- Rear fenders
- Steps

What needs doing:
mainly looking for some one that can cut out the old floor pans, rockers, fender supports, and weld in the new stuff. the rest of the fenders should be un bolt the bolt bolt in the new. (hopefully). The hood has a few small rust holes in it, thinking they can be patched over. and the drivers side kick panel needs some patch work.

Won't be needed to attempt this until late summer early fall. (no point in doing it until all the parts are in so it can be painted after)

I can't weld worth ch!t, and my auto body knowledge sucks.

Let me know if interested.

Thank you
- Ryan

:chevy:
 

boots

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What do you have for a welding machine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Deano670

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I will make a couple calls for you, have a very good friend who is a welding instructor at nait and another who builds race cars. Will let you know sir.

Deano
 
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RXN

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Hope the pictures loaded, all I got is pictures of the out side, never really took any of what needs to be done. Truck is my daily driver, ran her all winter. put on 100 miles a day. fun to drive.
 

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d mills

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well we know it can make it to vegreville and mundare from sherwood park....haha....nice truck man...always loved that body style...definitely worth restoring
 

Pinner

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You can learn to weld with a mig before then. A panel cutter attachment on an air chisel will cut out the rotten spots and the floor if you can't get a plasma cutter. Just remember not to get any body patches hot when welding them in. Slowly join spot welds to get a seal or you will warp the panel.

If you want a good finished look, and no rust coming back you'll need an experienced body man/refinisher for the rest of it.
 

d mills

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You can learn to weld with a mig before then. A panel cutter attachment on an air chisel will cut out the rotten spots and the floor if you can't get a plasma cutter. Just remember not to get any body patches hot when welding them in. Slowly join spot welds to get a seal or you will warp the panel.

If you want a good finished look, and no rust coming back you'll need an experienced body man/refinisher for the rest of it.

Good call...your either a good welder or a good grinder.....haha
 

RXN

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Good call...your either a good welder or a good grinder.....haha

You can learn to weld with a mig before then. A panel cutter attachment on an air chisel will cut out the rotten spots and the floor if you can't get a plasma cutter. Just remember not to get any body patches hot when welding them in. Slowly join spot welds to get a seal or you will warp the panel.

If you want a good finished look, and no rust coming back you'll need an experienced body man/refinisher for the rest of it.


Thanks for the tips, tho, be an interesting learning curve, lol.
 

RXN

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well we know it can make it to vegreville and mundare from sherwood park....haha....nice truck man...always loved that body style...definitely worth restoring


ha ha ha, it dose, Ministik to Red Water every day, summer and winter. (only hit the ditch once) Winter of 2010 the 283 that it had finally kicked the bucket, #6 piston let go. I found a block laying in one of dads sheds, got it running, but because I re-used all bearings, rings, and stuff I should have changed, it didn't run so well, took her stop a shop near the West end, and over paid for a 350. then spent the next couple months after going though their mistakes. All vacuum lines/fuel lines wrong size. distributor was sticking, bolts were left out. I got hosed, lesson learnt. December I swaped diffs, changed out the 4:57 floating rear end to a 2000 Chev 3/4" 3:73 rear end. She goes good, now just need to get the body looking good.


I'm wanting to do her up, find a truck camper from that time, do it up, then I can tow my 58 oldsmobile behind her to shows, That would look good.
 

d mills

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ha ha ha, it dose, Ministik to Red Water every day, summer and winter. (only hit the ditch once) Winter of 2010 the 283 that it had finally kicked the bucket, #6 piston let go. I found a block laying in one of dads sheds, got it running, but because I re-used all bearings, rings, and stuff I should have changed, it didn't run so well, took her stop a shop near the West end, and over paid for a 350. then spent the next couple months after going though their mistakes. All vacuum lines/fuel lines wrong size. distributor was sticking, bolts were left out. I got hosed, lesson learnt. December I swaped diffs, changed out the 4:57 floating rear end to a 2000 Chev 3/4" 3:73 rear end. She goes good, now just need to get the body looking good.


I'm wanting to do her up, find a truck camper from that time, do it up, then I can tow my 58 oldsmobile behind her to shows, That would look good.

Have a 350 out of a 70 chevy half ton i could let go pretty cheap if your interested, Stock, was my old mans. He bought it new and changed the oil every 1000 miles. Take the valve covers off and its spick and span. Its now just covered and gonna rot. We could prob just share a case of beer for it if you wanted it.
 
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