99 summitt 670 x pipes

Modman

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Gut it? I looked in there and there isn't much in it,just the HAC thing is plugged in and the carbs push in other then that it just has the top foam and then a screen. Maybe its been done already?

Crankshop says the pipes are for my altitude use so I should be ok.

On the side of the airbox there are little tabs, you have to split the airbox into two halves and remove the shelf that is inside or drill some holes like said above. I run my sled with pods and velocity tubes, by far the biggest increase in throttle response I saw.

Jaws pipes are one the best mods for this sled but are for 3000 ft and above.
 

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On the side of the airbox there are little tabs, you have to split the airbox into two halves and remove the shelf that is inside or drill some holes like said above. I run my sled with pods and velocity tubes, by far the biggest increase in throttle response I saw.

Jaws pipes are one the best mods for this sled but are for 3000 ft and above.

WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY "VELOCITY TUBES"???
 

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WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY "VELOCITY TUBES"???

See pics. carbs throats open to atmosphere (i.e. pods just stuck onto the air side of the carb) don't create enough air velocity to atomize the fuel properly (lower venturi velocities) and suck hot air from under the hood. I put stacks on mine made out of 2.5" turbo intake tubing (thin wall aluminum tubing) to get the air velocity as well as move the filters into the cold air stream. I don't run a headlight so I opened up the area where the head light used to be and put a screen in there. Sucks cold air all the time. In the deep snow I run a windshield with the headlight blocked out, but I don't run a speedo and leave the hole in the dash open, so it sucks cold air from the back without the snow ingestion but I lose a little bit of the "forced air" effect which is realistically only occuring at higher speeds on the trail anyway.

This effect was confirmed with EGT readings and plugs (but is really a marginal performance advantage when dealing with slow speeds during climbing or boondocking - the real benefit is getting the cold air to the carbs, regardless of whether you are forcing it into them or not). I do not run a vent to the airbox with this set up, which allows me to vent to atmosphere for more pressure compared to the low pressure system in a typical airbox. For comparison I am about 8 main jet sizes lower that what is spec'd for any given elevation by Ski Doo. Just my opinion, I don't profess to know everything, but this system on this sled works. I have tried the same system in other applications and it made little difference, this sled seems to really like it though.
 

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flabbajabba

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Ok I pulled it apart and now see the foam shelf thing do I just take it out?( and seal the box) I like the idea of drawing in cold air so I'm looking into saving the airbox if I can. What is better more holes or no shelf? And if you drill more holes do you pull off the foam? Pics will come as some as I get the pipes! They should be here this week.

My throat hurts looking at your bars Modman
 

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I Just Cut The Holes Bigger And Drilled Extra Holes.... I Think The Airbox Still Needs The Airhorn As A Spacer Between The 2 Halves... I Can't Remember For Sure, But That Is What I Did.;)
 

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Ya your right it is a spacer bettween the two halfs. I was just going to seal it with 1211 or something (duct tape). That way I can always go back if I needed. I'm good at cutting bigger just not good at cutting smaller LOL.

You left the foam there????
 
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Summitric

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Ya your right it is a spacer bettween the two halfs. I was just going to seal it with 1211 or something (duct tape). That way I can always go back if I needed. I'm good at cutting bigger just not good at cutting smaller LOL.

You left the foam there????

LEFT THE FOAM ON TOP... SOME GUYS TAKE THE LITTLE SQUARE FOAM OUT, AND JUST LEAVE THE FOAM ON THE HOOD SCOOP... I KEPT THE SQUARE 1 TOO.... EXTRA PROTECTION.
 

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My throat hurts looking at your bars Modman

LOL! :) I will take another pic tonight of the current setup I have. This was a set of bars that I made to try them out, I now have an 8 inch riser and Renthals. When I sit on it I feel like I'm riding a chopper with ape hangers, I made a new seat that is about 4 inches taller than stock (lighter too :)) and that helps. I ride standing about 80% of the time so I like the higher bars. The new setup is even higher than this but it makes such a huge difference OMG. I will never go back from it, the standing riding position is so much more comfortable, no hunching or bending over at all. I didn't think it could make that much difference in how I felt at the end of the day but it did.
 

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[ I made a new seat that is about 4 inches taller than stock (lighter too :))

I'd like to see your mod seat I liked the one KORE did I want to try to make one for mine too.

How has your steering post held up to the new height? We broke one off this year its a long ride back with no steering!

I'll have pics of mine when I get back from Mcbride this weekend! Braaaap
 

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[ I made a new seat that is about 4 inches taller than stock (lighter too :))

I'd like to see your mod seat I liked the one KORE did I want to try to make one for mine too.

How has your steering post held up to the new height? We broke one off this year its a long ride back with no steering!

I'll have pics of mine when I get back from Mcbride this weekend! Braaaap

Steering post has been good so far (not sure if you just jinxed me by asking that :D) but I will be monitoring more closely now, so thank you. You can see my sled in the pics below. I scrapped the stock wood, got some thinner lighter stuff, drilled 1" holes in the bottom all over the place to allow it to dry better and breath easier and I changed how it mounts on the tunnel.

Also, I cut some foam from the inside to lighten it up. Not sure how KORE did his, you can just add pink insulation foam to the bottom side and then shave the top of the factory seat to whatever style you like (build it higher from the bottom up, not adding to the top). The pink insulation stuff is cheap, really light and makes the bottom of your seat stiffer and is very easy to shape (I use an electric carving knife - cuts like its going through water). I had my wife make the seat cover.

It needs a little TLC after a hard season but has held up well, I might have a pro redo the stitching with some heavy duty thread this summer, just to beef them up. The front was a challenge, getting to wrap it around and match to the tank, I really didn't have much of an option but to pull it tight and staple it. The S-chassis seat/tank transitions are low and if I wanted to blend the raised seat into the tank, I would have almost been wrapping it around the filler neck. I did get a little tear in it (about 1/3 the size of a fingernail) from my boot (I think) but other than that it held up well. It would last another season easily if I wasn't such a perfectionist.

I would give the back of the seat more angle next time too. I recently saw a home jobbie where some shmuck just chainsawed the back of his seat straight off and just wrapped the vinyl over it again, looked terrible, do a good job right the first time IMO. I'm still working with the new mesh hood so its still a work in progress, I just have to tighten the fabric a little more. I love the S-chassis which is why I built one. She may not be brand new, but she ain't slow....... :)

p.s. forgive my messy garage in the background, I'm slowly finishing the wiring on it and so its in a state of dis-repair but the sled comes first..... :)
 

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Summitric

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I Have The Similar Steering Post Set-up And Its Been Good For A Few Years Now... It Did Originally Crack The Weld, And Welded And Gusseted It Post Where The Handlebar Pad Sits, And It Has Been Fine Since.... That Is Known Weak Spot On The S-chassis Summits.
 

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Steering post has been good so far (not sure if you just jinxed me by asking that :D) QUOTE]

Sorry I hope I didn't. I fixed my buddies steering post by adding a pipe to the inside as far up and down as I could,then I drilled a couple of holes in it so I could weld it to the outer post and then welded the broke seam back together. I don't think it will break again the only down side it has to be broke first to add the pipe! Mine will be fixed the same way if/when it breaks.

Thanks for the info on the seat I would have never thought of the hard pink foam. I'm thinking now to just take my stock seat and take out some foam from the bottom and add pink. I'm hoping if it is a little stiffer I won't have to add height? And I'll just put the stock seat cover back on. Now its a lazy boy I sink in the seat 5-6" If it was stiffer it would feel higher? (I hope) Oh yah it would lose some weight too.
 

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flabbajabba, I left you a response to this on the s-chassis seat thread.
 

SLEDBUNNYRACING

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steering post - 01 RMK
I bent mine a couple of years ago and bought a chromemoly steering post
from Kurt @ WildChild.
This is an awesome upgrade.
One thing I recomend is a riser so that if you go into the handlebars that they will bend as compared to breaking your ribs.
 

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One thing I recomend is a riser so that if you go into the handlebars that they will bend as compared to breaking your ribs.

LOL - Fox Rockstar soft core chest protector - $72 from Royal Distributing. Can be worn under your shirt or under the jacket, doesn't really bunch up your clothing and fits nicely, doesn't restrict movement at all like the plastic roost deflectors. It will pay for itself the first time you hit the bars IMO. Trust me.... LOL :)
 

SLEDBUNNYRACING

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SLEDBUNNYRACING

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Bars only brake loose went I hit them...no lightweight here though.
Mine have never given out while riding.
Wear a vest....any vest is better than "not"

Cheerz.


LOL right on. I don't like it when my bars move so they are as tight as can be. climbing the really steep stuff if you are hanging onto them just to keep on the sled, I have pulled back so hard on mine they tilted back in mid climb, makes for an interesting ride and turn out with the bars at 45 degrees backwards :)
 
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