4700km XM Clutch Update

Shermanator

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Well my season has been done for a bit now but, before putting the sled to bed I figured some clutch maintenance was in order. My first debockle occurred trying to get the primary off with my removal tool from my Rev . That's right, the Rev tool fits the newer XM's, or at least it did for 3 prior clutch removals on the XM but on the 4th it failed miserably, tearing the threads on the primary! Needless to say that was a pricey mistake. As you can see from the pic the newer XM tool on the right is a bit different, most importantly the threads engage more of the clutch than the older Rev bolt, who knew!!
The primary was still in pretty good shape after 4700km and no repairs! However, as you can see from the wear pattern on the ramp, there was the start of roller wear and/or pin wear so, the cheapest route to do the primary is just to buy the clutch kit and get the new bushing/clip for the outer sheave. I included a pic of the belt wear on the outer sheave simply to show that it is time for a new belt, still have the original on, only adjusted the secondary twice over 4700km! The belt actually looks in primo shape but, I'm guessing that heat has taken its toll on it and its starting to break down so new one for next season.
The secondary turned into a bit of a gong show. I made a puller for taking the fixed secondary off, still like the old secondary design better. It was all pretty much pristine but there was wear showing on the helix bushing as seen in the pic, so figured I should swap that out. Here's the weird part, you can order a new bushing and clip, but the shop won't put it in for you, because the BRP manual says to replace the entire helix. Bushing, $28, new helix, $145 ?????????????? Well, being the cheaptard that I am I of course went for the bushing. The shop "tried" to get the old bushing out, to no avail. There is no "lip" on the inside of the helix to be able to pound or push the old bushing out. So, I cut the bushing in several spots in an attempt to merely pop out the pieces of cut bushing and then press the new one in. No go, would appear the bushing was also glued in at the factory, because it would not budge. Well, at least until the point a chunk of aluminum broke off with the bushing attached, ya, need a new helix!! Also put a pic in of the secondary spring, the new one is nearly a 1/4" longer, definitely time to replace that.
All in all I am very impressed with the clutch and the performance of it over 3 seasons, so I guess a couple bucks into it at this stage is warranted. Clutch parts and a new set of plugs (originals again, was hard starting near the end of this season but the new plugs fixed that!). Still cheaper than a new 2018 !
 

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Shermanator

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I don't know anyone still using a clutch puller. The water trick works way better.


Ya, had the puller so why not use it, right? Its only money!!:(
 

tex78

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I told bill that when I heard you broke you tool off in there

Must have been a older tool, the point to threads are shorter lol

Guess I was right


I always use the water-bolt-threadsealant trick, works way better

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tex78

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Now that your fixed up, time to sled still, good snow still eh

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vodoo103

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Thanks for the info. I had used my Rev puller quite a few times on XP & XM sleds. Guess I was lucky.
Been using the water method for a few years now too.
 

Diamondledinc

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Thanks for the info. I had used my Rev puller quite a few times on XP & XM sleds. Guess I was lucky.
Been using the water method for a few years now too.

One night we had to replace a primary on an m1000 in the sugar bowl. We brought up a water bottle full of oil to use instead of water.. Worked great. Until i unpacked my bag back at the house and in the middle of the night grabbed the water bottle full of oil instead of water for a drink.
 

revbyu

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Gee sherm - since clutch rebuilding in fresh on ur mind maybe Ill bring mine over ! Lol

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Shermanator

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I told bill that when I heard you broke you tool off in there

Must have been a older tool, the point to threads are shorter lol

Guess I was right


I always use the water-bolt-threadsealant trick, works way better

Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk

Ya, the water trick will work but how do you get the sheaves apart when they are "welded" together, still need the tool for that! If you've seen some of the videos on You Tube on the subject they've sometimes even pounded the thing on the cement floor to split them apart, yikes! Revbyu, sure, bring it over, I haven't wrecked anything for a couple days now!! Billdozer, the Mrs. said "no", again, to the 2018, how you making out!!!:rant:
 

tex78

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After I get clutch off, the I use the puller threaded in and yes bash puller bolt head on ground, or I have a big anvil that works slick

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Shermanator

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Like tex said -use ur clutch retaining bolt - i just bash it on the cement - it it doesnt come apart - bash it harder!

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You guys are way to aggressive for me! I just take my little 5lb sledge and sorta "tap tap" the bolt! The removal tool has 3 times the threads on it compared to the primary bolt so less chance of buggering something up. Found out something else about that helix bushing, supposedly a "non wear " item and that's why the bushing can't be replaced, never has! No idea why they'd even sell the bushing separately. I've got the old parts for your if you need any paper weights!
 

Bnorth

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Like tex said -use ur clutch retaining bolt - i just bash it on the cement - it it doesnt come apart - bash it harder!

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I do this but put a couple layers of cardboard down first.
 

Dmf

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Nice work, while your doing maintenance replace your fuel filter on top of the oil tank. Go to napa auto parts and get the exact filter for the quater of the price. If you look at your stock filter it actually says wix on it. When you take it apart see if you can blow through it, and also tap it on your bench on a clean papaw towel, interesting what colour comes out. I did mine today and I also pulled the fuel pump out and split the bottom there's a filter there that you can brake clean and blow out ( mine had crap on there too)
 
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