4.3l ENGINE CRACKED BLOCK.

[OVERKILL 19]

just threaded fuel lines eh? im just going off of what they showed us in school about the differences, i agree with you, some shops do just swap out parts till its fixed, gives the good shops a bad name, but im pretty sure that happens in every trade.. personally i like to think for myself AND get paid to do it, funny how that works lol, Just a couple diffeences,
:The marine carbs are designed to have any excess gas in the fuel bowls and vents, vented into the engine and not outside as in automotive carbs. It's a safety issue to prevent fires and explosions.
:the vent tubes are in the shape of a "J' which redirects purcolating fuel from spilling over into the boat and it just dumps it into the engine, the choke setups are usually ddifferent, no vacumn acctuated chokes, ( either hot-stove) ( or elect.)
coating is usually more corrosioan resistant also,
callibrated for marine use, ( due to marine engines being typically run at a high rpm constantly, instead of your car.. shifting, dropping rpm's)
found a couple of those straight off the holley website,
its not like the carb companies came up with the idea of the "marine Carb" that was the coast guard, jus thinkin they probably know what there doin... so theres a reason im guessing. hope this helps, not trying to be rude, just trying to help prevent some guy who sees this and goes and bolts a auto carb on an has something terrible happen, and good job workin on your own stuff, as much as i depend on people not fixing there stuff, i ts not too often people do that anymore.

Agreed, Like I said I made my own "Marine carb" My carb was identical to the marine grade, fuel lines,vent lines and choke. I know why this stuff is done, I understand the gas in a enclosed space. IMO my carb was safer due to the ratings on the fittings and fuel line. I also changed out all my vent lines to Russel fittings and braded hose, not cause I needed to but purly for looks. the factory lines were all rubber crimped fittings. I dont know the rating on a rubber crimped fuel hose. But I KNOW U dont see them under too many hoods at the track.....last time I was there anyway.

U should swing over to Eagel and look under the hood of some of there boats, GM create motors and they were not intended to be or calibrated to be in a boat.....But Dale has been doing quite well selling them for a long time, so I would geuss that if it did'nt work well he probaly would'nt be selling them any more. P.S the last time I was at Kipp Scott talking with my parts guru Jerry they just filled a seacan full of GM's finest to ship to New Zealand...to put in boats. Eh!

 

[xsyourride]

Did you get the lack of power figured out yet? That's something that can occur when a timing chain is out one tooth.... just a thought.

No still haven't got it figured out took it to Stealer and they put it on the dyno and said it pulled great pressures on the dyno but they couldn't tell the hp. Said it had great throttle respones. They said they couldn't set the timing as the computer does it all. It does start good and shuts down nice. But in my opinion low on bottom and mid range power. Put high five 19 pitch stainless prop on and still have hard time getting out of the hole. With tube behind i just about have to get the paddles out and assist it to get going.Now i'm starting to wonder if it is not my leg gear ratio as it is 1.60 and they say for higher altitudes should be 1.86 ratio. Going to try 17 pitch high five and see if that works.Looked online for dyno pressure chart spec's and i got the ball park of 243hp and i know stock it is 225hp and the engine shop said there would be about 19hp gain with flat top pistions. But to me it fells like 3L . Even when you're cruising at wide open and bring it back thousand rpm and then punch it, it is slow recovery.

 

[Summitric]

they said they couldn't set the timing as the computer does it all.

hmmmmmmmmmm, does the engine have a distributor? If so, they do have to be timed....... Let me know

 

[clutchy1]

Agreed, Like I said I made my own "Marine carb" My carb was identical to the marine grade, fuel lines,vent lines and choke. I know why this stuff is done, I understand the gas in a enclosed space. IMO my carb was safer due to the ratings on the fittings and fuel line. I also changed out all my vent lines to Russel fittings and braded hose, not cause I needed to but purly for looks. the factory lines were all rubber crimped fittings. I dont know the rating on a rubber crimped fuel hose. But I KNOW U dont see them under too many hoods at the track.....last time I was there anyway.

U should swing over to Eagel and look under the hood of some of there boats, GM create motors and they were not intended to be or calibrated to be in a boat.....But Dale has been doing quite well selling them for a long time, so I would geuss that if it did'nt work well he probaly would'nt be selling them any more. P.S the last time I was at Kipp Scott talking with my parts guru Jerry they just filled a seacan full of GM's finest to ship to New Zealand...to put in boats. Eh!

Gm makes marine spec short and long block crate motors, we order them all the time, 4 bolt main, and a different cam, brass frost plugs.. but back on topic.
Thats the rough thing about a dyno, you never know just how well it'll work until your on the lake, what year is this again? it should still have a dist. you can time those engines, you just need the computer to lock out the advance i believe, Can I ask what shop you have it at? do they have a computer to plug it into?

 

[OVERKILL 19]

No still haven't got it figured out took it to Stealer and they put it on the dyno and said it pulled great pressures on the dyno but they couldn't tell the hp. Said it had great throttle respones. They said they couldn't set the timing as the computer does it all. It does start good and shuts down nice. But in my opinion low on bottom and mid range power. Put high five 19 pitch stainless prop on and still have hard time getting out of the hole. With tube behind i just about have to get the paddles out and assist it to get going.Now i'm starting to wonder if it is not my leg gear ratio as it is 1.60 and they say for higher altitudes should be 1.86 ratio. Going to try 17 pitch high five and see if that works.Looked online for dyno pressure chart spec's and i got the ball park of 243hp and i know stock it is 225hp and the engine shop said there would be about 19hp gain with flat top pistions. But to me it fells like 3L . Even when you're cruising at wide open and bring it back thousand rpm and then punch it, it is slow recovery.

If U bumped HP U might be cavetating, I had to change props when I did mine. But I would'nt think 19 HP would do it! Just a thought! IMO U are on the right track with the Hi5, just need to find the right pitch. I think I tried 4 props back 2 back. It was good to have friends with boats!
we hung off the back and U could see the water cavetate with our origanal prop. Once U find the right one U can see the differance!...again IMO !

 

[xsyourride]

It's 2004 and it does run distributor,All the stuff i pulled off the internet tells me that you have to disable the advance timing and set base timing.I had it it Spirit Marine and they threw the screws to me on the bill and absolutely told me nothing.I have 2 years of marine back ground and they just billed me for what knowledge i gave them to look for,they said they had the computer on it but could not tell me the timing settings. So in the end i just pulled the boat out of there after setting there for 3 weeks. As for the cavetating only happens if it is building rpm so slow and the boat plows down so deep that the water moves away from the prop.

 

[OVERKILL 19]

It's 2004 and it does run distributor,All the stuff i pulled off the internet tells me that you have to disable the advance timing and set base timing.I had it it Spirit Marine and they threw the screws to me on the bill and absolutely told me nothing.I have 2 years of marine back ground and they just billed me for what knowledge i gave them to look for,they said they had the computer on it but could not tell me the timing settings. So in the end i just pulled the boat out of there after setting there for 3 weeks. As for the cavetating only happens if it is building rpm so slow and the boat plows down so deep that the water moves away from the prop.

your boat is dropping in the back end off the start? is it from the prop sucking it down or is it the leg not down all the way? Part 2 there I know is a shot in the dark!

Is the motor bogging down or sputtering, pinging ?
If U have the motor I think U do, cant U plug/cap off the vac lines while in the drive way with a leg water source, run the motor, find your base timing then hook it all back up and run her in the lake. Or is yours computer controled? No vac lines? If not check your vac lines also, if you have a leak or hose routed wrong could send U for a loop!

Is it the same carb U had before?
Is the fuel good?
Fuel filter plugged?
Air filter good/plugged?
Good spark? Plugs/wires look good...ran wires corect firing order?

These are all little dumb things that I was bit by once in my life, just throwing them out there..I'm sure you've checked!

 

[xsyourride]

your boat is dropping in the back end off the start? is it from the prop sucking it down or is it the leg not down all the way? Part 2 there I know is a shot in the dark!

Is the motor bogging down or sputtering, pinging ?
If U have the motor I think U do, cant U plug/cap off the vac lines while in the drive way with a leg water source, run the motor, find your base timing then hook it all back up and run her in the lake. Or is yours computer controled? No vac lines? If not check your vac lines also, if you have a leak or hose routed wrong could send U for a loop!

Is it the same carb U had before?
Is the fuel good?
Fuel filter plugged?
Air filter good/plugged?
Good spark? Plugs/wires look good...ran wires corect firing order?

These are all little dumb things that I was bit by once in my life, just throwing them out there..I'm sure you've checked!

No carb , its MPI. Has no vac lines and yes the leg is down all the way.We've sucked all the fuel out change filters. Air filter is the open metal style.Plugs where new but i'm going to replace them with some high end plugs. I've spent hours running it in the driveway,with no load on the engine throttle responds is so fast it tacks out faster than i can pull the throttle back.on the lake its just extremely slow to build rpm.

 

[Summitric]

no carb , its mpi. Has no vac lines and yes the leg is down all the way.we've sucked all the fuel out change filters. Air filter is the open metal style.plugs where new but i'm going to replace them with some high end plugs. I've spent hours running it in the driveway,with no load on the engine throttle responds is so fast it tacks out faster than i can pull the throttle back.on the lake its just extremely slow to build rpm.

you need to get the base timing set, before you go any farther. Doesn't sound like they knew what they were doing at the previous place...... You need to bypass the computer advance system to get base timing set, otherwise, you're just shooting stuff at it.......you must do the base timing before goin' any farther. Jus' sayin'

 

[xsyourride]

you need to get the base timing set, before you go any farther. Doesn't sound like they knew what they were doing at the previous place...... You need to bypass the computer advance system to get base timing set, otherwise, you're just shooting stuff at it.......you must do the base timing before goin' any farther. Jus' sayin'

Totally agree with you. Haven't ever built engine that you drop distributor and don't set timing. Now this is shot in the dark is that something your computers can do at your shop?

 

[Summitric]

totally agree with you. Haven't ever built engine that you drop distributor and don't set timing. Now this is shot in the dark is that something your computers can do at your shop?

i'm not sure....... Does it have an obdii adaptor anywhere?

 

[Summitric]

I bet if you google it, you could find info on the system if there isn't a dll connector somewhere........

 

[OVERKILL 19]

Did U drop the distributer in? R U TDC, not 180 out?
Is your knock senser toast,or "not sending a signal" if I remember right it will advance your timing as far as it can go!

 

[Summitric]

did u drop the distributer in? R u tdc, not 180 out?

it can't run, 180 out...... Jus' sayin'

it would be popping and backfiring badly

 

[briguy99]

if it is 04 mercruiser will likely be mefi4 fuel management just cross terminal a and b on the aldc plug and you are then in timing mode. set engine to manufacturers specs (most likely 10 btdc) engine idles at 1000 rpm and timing mark should be steady hope this helps

 

[OVERKILL 19]

it can't run, 180 out...... Jus' sayin'

it would be popping and backfiring badly

Sorry, U are right. I said 180 but was thinking one cogg's off.

 

[xsyourride]

I agree it is timing thing runs to good until it needs power under load to be out a tooth. Its Volvo Penta 4.3 GXI-G 2004 model. It has some weird round connector for the computer hook up. I think i found on line a hand held code reader and timing set tool. for about $120. Lots good Mercury dealers around but can't find Volvo dealer. Wizard lake is my next place to try they seem to have there stuff together and they have pit to test the boat in.

 

[xsyourride]

I think this the little tool i'll need.

CodeMate
Volvo Penta
Part Number 3851088
EFI Code Reader



This pocket size tester serves as both an EFI Problem Indicator and a Spark Timing service tool. It is the perfect tool for low volume marine repair shops that troubleshoot a small number of EFI systems a year. This tool is the minimum required service tool needed to perform GM marine EFI diagnostic procedures. CodeMate allows fault codes to be read and allows base spark advance to be set when used with a timing light

 

[clutchy1]

take it to recreational powersports, 14980 114 ave, real good guys to deal with, thats the shop i work at, im not there next week but they should be able to getr you fixed up.

 

[clutchy1]

another quick thing, volvo is super easy to lock out the timing on, there should be two wires coming out of the dist,just jump between them and it locks it out, not too sure on colur though,