4.3l ENGINE CRACKED BLOCK.

[xsyourride]

Looking for some insight on 4.3L engine,Bought 2005 19' Campion boat with cracked block from not being winterized very low hours, ran the unit up with out water for few seconds ran perfect it would be sham not to use the internal engine parts that are good still . Has any one reused ther old internal parts with new block and heads,or knows good place to pick one up reman or new.
Thanks

 

[Longhorn]

Personal opinion, go with a new short block. I dont see why you couldnt re-use the internals, but you would likely have to have the crank checked over, by time you do that, new bearings, new rings, likely close to the price of a short block...

I could be wrong, as I am really only familiar with diesels, but there are some others here with some vast engine experience, and Im sure they will point you in the right direction!

 

[Summitric]

personal opinion, go with a new short block. I dont see why you couldnt re-use the internals, but you would likely have to have the crank checked over, by time you do that, new bearings, new rings, likely close to the price of a short block...

I could be wrong, as i am really only familiar with diesels, but there are some others here with some vast engine experience, and im sure they will point you in the right direction!

contact a good engine shop, because sometimes the block can be repaired without disassembling, as long as the coolant leak isn't internal?? Might try "the block shop", or "trac cylinder head rebuilders", or alberta engines........

 

[xsyourride]

pulled the top end apart last night both heads are cracked and block is cracked internally down by the cam shaft. Had some estimates of $2600 reman and $3200 for brand new GM marine drop in.Just sham to throw out good parts.

 

[slomo]

pulled the top end apart last night both heads are cracked and block is cracked internally down by the cam shaft. Had some estimates of $2600 reman and $3200 for brand new GM marine drop in.Just sham to throw out good parts.

just so you know the gm has a 3 yr 80000 km warrenty,and will repair any oil leaks as well under warrenty
ps just dont tell them it's going into a boat,i'll also see what i can get it for
for you,i have some connections at the stealership:d

 

[xsyourride]

just so you know the gm has a 3 yr 80000 km warrenty,and will repair any oil leaks as well under warrenty
ps just dont tell them it's going into a boat,i'll also see what i can get it for
for you,i have some connections at the stealership:d

thanks

 

[sledderdoc]

Just be sure everything you get is the marine and not automotive. There are small important differences. Also depending on how much room you have you may not want a single point drain system. "Blue knob on top of engine" they have been known not to drain completely if sand etc has settled in the drains. I have one but I also park in doors. I can't see why you couldn't use a lot of internal parts as lond as they're in good shape.

 

[Showtime]

Curious how this is coming along. Please post an update.

 

[xsyourride]

Got the rebuilt engine back dropped it in ran it up in the shop, starts good idles fine. Took it to Wabum lake on friday last week and got it out on the water and have no power. Doesn't ping or bog just extremely slow on building rpm. Now When I went to go out to the lake i did stop to fill it with gas but only got $10 in it as I had no idea how much was in it do to the fact that i was waiting for the new fuel gauge to come in. I thinking the fuel is rotten. Siphoned out the old fuel and removed the anti siphone valve . ( anti-siphone valves are bad for sticking and leaning out your engine. ) Was going to go out tomorrow and test again but old man winter decided to show up again.We reused all my old internals except pistons and bearings and seals The only thing thats got me really worried is the guy who built the engine for me put flat top pistons in and bumped the hp up 19hp, I asked him if the fuel injection system would mapp to that style of piston and they said shouldn't be problem. So Hopping its just rotten fuel holding the engine back.

 

[Showtime]

Well i'm glad to hear you got her all buttoned up but that's a real bummer with the HP, like you said hopefully its bad feul. Maybe try some Seafoam with it as well, i used it after Catpride suggested it in another topic and the stuff works awesome. I'm not much of a motorhead but it sounds like your on the right track, i know with mine the smallest thing like a sensor can really affect the performance of the motor. I was gonna say if you head out to Wab tommorrow i would join ya for a BS session but then i looked outside and saw the trees at a 45 degree angle. Friggin wind. All the luck on getting it tuned. Cheers.

 

[xsyourride]

No luck, Little better but not as good as it should be. Took it in today to Free Spirt Marine there going to dyno it and set up the lap top to test it out. Hope its minor. Boat is really starting to live up to its abbreviation .
B-Bring
O-Out
A-Another
T-Thousand.

 

[sledderdoc]

No luck, Little better but not as good as it should be. Took it in today to Free Spirt Marine there going to dyno it and set up the lap top to test it out. Hope its minor. Boat is really starting to live up to its abbreviation .
B-Bring
O-Out
A-Another
T-Thousand.

If you still have problems I've gotten great advise from MarineEngine.com
Just go to the Merc inboard section and post away. Got some real good peeps on there.

 

[clutchy1]

Did he just order you an new block and put your crank, con rods heads etc on it? marine engines are typically four bolt mains, built to withstand running at 5000 rpm for extended amounts of time(vs your truck being around 2-3k) also they are cam'd differtent, hopefully this could help ya out, good luck!

 

[OVERKILL 19]

I would think flat top would not make much differance...mapping wise. I'm not sure if you can even get the old non senser safe silocon anymore but I have been bit by that before, the guy had a old tube in his tool box not realizing that it toasted a couple sensors. Trowing darts as I think UI said U have fuel injection.

As far as the whole auto marine debate. I did the same thing to a searay 10 years ago. stock was a 305, so I bought the GM 350 350hp, with a new edelbrock carb. Buddy had the same carb in a marine grade. The only differance was the fuel lines were tapped and threaded instead of hose bungs. pulled the bung off and tapped it. You cant tell the diff. most marine stuff is just that fuel related. Our boat has been this way for ten years and it stratrs runs better than it did new with the 305!

 

[clutchy1]

I would think flat top would not make much differance...mapping wise. I'm not sure if you can even get the old non senser safe silocon anymore but I have been bit by that before, the guy had a old tube in his tool box not realizing that it toasted a couple sensors. Trowing darts as I think UI said U have fuel injection.

As far as the whole auto marine debate. I did the same thing to a searay 10 years ago. stock was a 305, so I bought the GM 350 350hp, with a new edelbrock carb. Buddy had the same carb in a marine grade. The only differance was the fuel lines were tapped and threaded instead of hose bungs. pulled the bung off and tapped it. You cant tell the diff. most marine stuff is just that fuel related. Our boat has been this way for ten years and it stratrs runs better than it did new with the 305!

I feel bad for the poor guy workin on your boat when it happens to have a stray spark in the bilge, If i see anything on a bat non marine i shut the hood and put it in the yard, not worth it to me to be blown up, but its your boat...

 

[Summiteer]

just so you know the gm has a 3 yr 80000 km warrenty,and will repair any oil leaks as well under warrenty
ps just dont tell them it's going into a boat,i'll also see what i can get it for
for you,i have some connections at the stealership:d

Won't they get a little suspicious if you take it in for warrantee work in the back of a pickup?

 

[teeroy]

Won't they get a little suspicious if you take it in for warrantee work in the back of a pickup?

naah.....lol

 

[OVERKILL 19]

I feel bad for the poor guy workin on your boat when it happens to have a stray spark in the bilge, If i see anything on a bat non marine i shut the hood and put it in the yard, not worth it to me to be blown up, but its your boat...

I guess I'm the "poor guy" alright did'nt pay some boat mechanic to not think for himself and just swap parts like a monkey! Then pay out the aZZZ!

Please fill me in on how its wrong then...I just did'nt pay double $$$ for a "Marine" carb! Instead I made my own.

I had both marine and auto carbs apart the only differance was the threaded fuel lines. I used Russel racing fuel lines and fittings....the same stuff my buddy use's when he builds and sells jet boats for a living? Factory was crimped rubber hose's

 

[clutchy1]

just threaded fuel lines eh? im just going off of what they showed us in school about the differences, i agree with you, some shops do just swap out parts till its fixed, gives the good shops a bad name, but im pretty sure that happens in every trade.. personally i like to think for myself AND get paid to do it, funny how that works lol, Just a couple diffeences,
:The marine carbs are designed to have any excess gas in the fuel bowls and vents, vented into the engine and not outside as in automotive carbs. It's a safety issue to prevent fires and explosions.
:the vent tubes are in the shape of a "J' which redirects purcolating fuel from spilling over into the boat and it just dumps it into the engine, the choke setups are usually ddifferent, no vacumn acctuated chokes, ( either hot-stove) ( or elect.)
coating is usually more corrosioan resistant also,
callibrated for marine use, ( due to marine engines being typically run at a high rpm constantly, instead of your car.. shifting, dropping rpm's)
found a couple of those straight off the holley website,
its not like the carb companies came up with the idea of the "marine Carb" that was the coast guard, jus thinkin they probably know what there doin... so theres a reason im guessing. hope this helps, not trying to be rude, just trying to help prevent some guy who sees this and goes and bolts a auto carb on an has something terrible happen, and good job workin on your own stuff, as much as i depend on people not fixing there stuff, i ts not too often people do that anymore.

 

[ardypol]

Got the rebuilt engine back dropped it in ran it up in the shop, starts good idles fine. Took it to Wabum lake on friday last week and got it out on the water and have no power. Doesn't ping or bog just extremely slow on building rpm. Now When I went to go out to the lake i did stop to fill it with gas but only got $10 in it as I had no idea how much was in it do to the fact that i was waiting for the new fuel gauge to come in. I thinking the fuel is rotten. Siphoned out the old fuel and removed the anti siphone valve . ( anti-siphone valves are bad for sticking and leaning out your engine. ) Was going to go out tomorrow and test again but old man winter decided to show up again.We reused all my old internals except pistons and bearings and seals The only thing thats got me really worried is the guy who built the engine for me put flat top pistons in and bumped the hp up 19hp, I asked him if the fuel injection system would mapp to that style of piston and they said shouldn't be problem. So Hopping its just rotten fuel holding the engine back.

Did you get the lack of power figured out yet? That's something that can occur when a timing chain is out one tooth.... just a thought.