3" or 2.5"

poon

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Ok what do you think I should do? A 162x3" or 174x2.5". I'm not a big hill climber, I prefer to play in the trees. Dollar for dollar what do you think is the best money spent?
 

Treedragon

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Ok what do you think I should do? A 162x3" or 174x2.5". I'm not a big hill climber, I prefer to play in the trees. Dollar for dollar what do you think is the best money spent?
No matter 162 or 174 go with the 3" this is by far the best bang for your buck. I rode with three 174 3" pro's with a little bit of work but mostly stock and they work well even in the trees, because you can dam near walk thru every thing and their like tractors. I just put a 162 3" on my turbo and Tested it in DEEEEEEP snow, all i can say is wow it helped me from getting stuck many of times.
 

underdog

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How are those big 3" tracks holding up? They did have the problems of blowing lugs.

My buddy has a 162 3" on his 2011 etec, only has 500 kilometres on it and he's blown a lug already. Camoplast claimed that since he did the 7 tooth drivers and not the drop and roll chain case, that it wouldn't be covered under warranty.

sent from a phone
 

maxwell

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My buddy has a 162 3" on his 2011 etec, only has 500 kilometres on it and he's blown a lug already. Camoplast claimed that since he did the 7 tooth drivers and not the drop and roll chain case, that it wouldn't be covered under warranty.

sent from a phone

not sure how they are going to tell that.......either way i would tell them my wheels at the rear of my skid are smaller than the 7 tooth drivers so they can fist themselves. havent blown a lug on any of ours yet with about 500km. keep in mind this is a mountain only track dont even consider pulling it out in the flatlands. its deffinetly a worthy mod but keep in mind you need an avid chaincase to install it on the pro and its a big expense. guys that are going to take lugs off this track will be people with high hp, go mach 1 down the trail, and that ride it in low snow conditions. hitting a stump or rock at full bore will also remove lugs from the 3" easier than the 2.5.
 
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Tyson.H

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i have a 174 3" pro and it is the funnest sled i have ever been on it is great in the trees and worth every penny i am riding with 3 of them and no problems so far and everyone is loving them. As far as the 3" holding up mine has almost 500miles on it with no problem at all. I don't ride anywhere but the mountains so i don't know how the track would hold up ditch bagging. As far as the 174 being harder to tree ride with the pro is such an easy sled to handle you don't even notice that 174. And i agree with maxwell how could they tell its wasn't a drop and roll and what what there reasoning for not warranting it was it because of the small radius or the fact that the snow is building up at the front top of the tunnel and putting to much pressure on the lugs. That i could see being a problem thats why i don't like the whole going with smaller drivers cause i think you do loose good power from not having a nice gap to clear the snow from the top.
 

underdog

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not sure how they are going to tell that.......either way i would tell them my wheels at the rear of my skid are smaller than the 7 tooth drivers so they can fist themselves. havent blown a lug on any of ours yet with about 500km. keep in mind this is a mountain only track dont even consider pulling it out in the flatlands. its deffinetly a worthy mod but keep in mind you need an avid chaincase to install it on the pro and its a big expense. guys that are going to take lugs off this track will be people with high hp, go mach 1 down the trail, and that ride it in low snow conditions. hitting a stump or rock at full bore will also remove lugs from the 3" easier than the 2.5.

I agree. It has only ever been run in the mountains, and a top speed of 70kmh on the trail.

sent from a phone
 

turboassault

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I got a 163 3 on my pro couldnt be happier with it. The original question was what was the better bang for the buck. The 163 3 is the better set up for sure but costs at least double compared to the 2.5. Depends what you want. Dont worry about handling the pro will take a 163 or 174 and still work awesome in the trees. Did i mention how much i love mine lol!!!
 

poon

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Ok thanks for everyone's input. For those of you who have done this mod what did it cost for the 162x3" and for the 174x2.5"? Thanks
 

Tyson.H

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for all the parts for a 174 your looking around 3500 to 4000 grand but i also sold my old rails for 300 my track for 500 and chain case for 350 so you get some back. lots of people think the 174 i a bunch more but you have to modify the rails or order shorter ones to run the 162 3" so the only extra cost it the tunnel extension.
 

Tyson.H

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sorry for a 174 2.5 it wouldn't be that much for parts just a track drivers rail and tunnel extension around 2000-2500 call parkland motorsports there in stony plain and he has done like 5 174 3" pro his number is 780-963-0080
 

jay

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My buddy has a 162 3" on his 2011 etec, only has 500 kilometres on it and he's blown a lug already. Camoplast claimed that since he did the 7 tooth drivers and not the drop and roll chain case, that it wouldn't be covered under warranty.

sent from a phone


thats weird my buddy blasted off about 20 paddles and they warrentied his (2011 etec 162)
 

Tyson.H

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thats weird my buddy blasted off about 20 paddles and they warrentied his (2011 etec 162)

probably cause 20 paddles would be a defect in the track but one or 2 could be a guy hitting a stump or rock
 

underdog

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thats weird my buddy blasted off about 20 paddles and they warrentied his (2011 etec 162)

Curtis from tracks Canada is fighting to get it fixed under warranty. Here's hoping.

sent from a phone
 

glassman

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I am not totaly sold on my 162 x 3" I think that the 174 x 2 1/2 would be pretty comparable performance wise and alot less expensive. I am just waiting for my buddy to give up on his peak track and buy the 174 so we can do some comparing. I do love the tractoring of my 162 though.
 
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