2016 m8000 best upgrades?

[PNWsledman]

cancel the GGB order and run the Jaws with an extra spring or something to hold it in position. Jaws quality far exceeds GGB.

I already tried screwing around with the springs, the only way it can go on it still rubs the chain case when i hit something hard. I like the design of the ggb better. Ill see how the fit and finish is and return it if it is unacceptable.

 

[niner]

ggb (gay guys banging)

 

[Jorgy]

If you have $1000 to spend do a 21/49 gear down, clutch kit with adjustable weights ( Dalton or SSI) and y pipe. This definitely makes a big differnece on these sleds when paired together. I had a 2016 M8000 162 and it was great, put 3000 miles on these mods with zero issues (I blew up a clutch but that was arctic cats fault)

You would probably want to change the helix in the secondary so that it shifts slower with the gear down. I cant remember what the angle is from stock but it is a straight cut. The aftermarket ones have multiple angles to better align to the power curve. Then you want to have adjustable weights too.

This is why clutching really is a science. If you dont know what you are doing leave it stock or buy a complete clutch kit from Seien Racing will be best results.

 

[tmo1620]

Everyone keeps saying gear down, it’s a gear up technically, higher gearing to make more track speed and load the engine better, did it to all my pro climb cats that didn’t get the belt drive. Gonna build a bit more belt temp with the higher gearing so some clutching helps, ran speedwerx stuff but for the life of me can’t remember what I was running as far as spring color and helix. Y pipe as said works well, I always did speedwerx exhaust parts, great quality and fit. Protect air is a good idea as well as modifying intake to pull more air. I really liked the slp Mohawks or Polaris gripper skis on these sleds as well, handling is night and day difference. Handlebars suck, bend them constantly so that’s a must for me. CFR riser and bars and Canada sled parts upper and lower bushing replacement to rid the slop. Never had any issues running those sleds, worked very good


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[PNWsledman]

Everyone keeps saying gear down, it’s a gear up technically, higher gearing to make more track speed and load the engine better, did it to all my pro climb cats that didn’t get the belt drive. Gonna build a bit more belt temp with the higher gearing so some clutching helps, ran speedwerx stuff but for the life of me can’t remember what I was running as far as spring color and helix. Y pipe as said works well, I always did speedwerx exhaust parts, great quality and fit. Protect air is a good idea as well as modifying intake to pull more air. I really liked the slp Mohawks or Polaris gripper skis on these sleds as well, handling is night and day difference. Handlebars suck, bend them constantly so that’s a must for me. CFR riser and bars and Canada sled parts upper and lower bushing replacement to rid the slop. Never had any issues running those sleds, worked very good


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Good info, did you ever go up to 8t drivers on the 3” track sleds or just stick with gearing or belt drive for them and good enough? Hoping not to have to do a driver/track swap and don’t like the idea of squeezing 3” paddles too close to the cooler. Also, what did you prefer for intake mods to pull more air? Was looking at some vents down near the nose/front bumper but figured they would be covered in snow and just risk being stabbed by branches etc..

 

[niner]

Not to start an internet battle,but you don’t want to gear up a mountain sled. You want to try and achieve a 1:1 ratio. If you gear up to a 140 km/h you will have hot clutches as the primary won’t shift out. Gear down as low as you can and clutch from there. Will be more efficient. Ben at Seinen Racing Products can explain it better if you are serious about making changes.

 

[PNWsledman]

Not to start an internet battle,but you don’t want to gear up a mountain sled. You want to try and achieve a 1:1 ratio. If you gear up to a 140 km/h you will have hot clutches as the primary won’t shift out. Gear down as low as you can and clutch from there. Will be more efficient. Ben at Seinen Racing Products can explain it better if you are serious about making changes.

I see, thanks. I did send Ben a message on here but haven’t heard anything. @dragonweld28

 

[lilduke]

Clutching isnt going to do chit. Get a turbo if you want it to be faster. Lol

 

[lilduke]

Its like putting a cold air intake on your car. Is it faster? Sure its 500$ faster, i wanted it to be 20g faster though. Lol

 

[PNWsledman]

Clutching isnt going to do chit. Get a turbo if you want it to be faster. Lol

If I had a money tree in the backyard I would go to town! Or probably just buy a new turbo sled. Im balling on a budget and sled is paid for so I’ll make it as fast as I can without sinking much money into it

 

[lilduke]

If I had a money tree in the backyard I would go to town! Or probably just buy a new turbo sled. Im balling on a budget and sled is paid for so I’ll make it as fast as I can without sinking much money into it

If youre on a buget leave it alone.

If i had a choice between a clutch.kit and an extra day in Revy. Im going for the extra day every time.


The guy selling you a clutch.kit isnt going to tell you that though.



Im here for you with the bitter truth.

 

[tmo1620]

Not to start an internet battle,but you don’t want to gear up a mountain sled. You want to try and achieve a 1:1 ratio. If you gear up to a 140 km/h you will have hot clutches as the primary won’t shift out. Gear down as low as you can and clutch from there. Will be more efficient. Ben at Seinen Racing Products can explain it better if you are serious about making changes.

Those proclimbs are geared to low at 19/50, had 2 14’s a 15 and a 16, all the same. Doesn’t load the motor properly and track speed suffers. I had a couple I just did the 21/49 with hyvo setup, no clutching other than adjustable weights and they worked much better than stock and I’ve never blown a belt. I also had a couple that got the gearing change and clutching with adjustables and they worked even better. The only difference with the 16’s vs 14 and 15 is team clutches which were an improvement as well. It’s not a huge gear up but it’s just enough I think. Riding 6000-7000’ in Valemount with that gearing works very well


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[tmo1620]

Good info, did you ever go up to 8t drivers on the 3” track sleds or just stick with gearing or belt drive for them and good enough? Hoping not to have to do a driver/track swap and don’t like the idea of squeezing 3” paddles too close to the cooler. Also, what did you prefer for intake mods to pull more air? Was looking at some vents down near the nose/front bumper but figured they would be covered in snow and just risk being stabbed by branches etc..

I tried the stock 8 tooth on my 14 HCR when I swapped the stock 2.6” with a 3” challenger extreme. It worked ok but was a lot of vibration as the track rubbed on Ice build up pretty bad so I put in 7 tooths. My 16 was a limited like yours and I left drivers stock


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[PNWsledman]

I tried the stock 8 tooth on my 14 HCR when I swapped the stock 2.6” with a 3” challenger extreme. It worked ok but was a lot of vibration as the track rubbed on Ice build up pretty bad so I put in 7 tooths. My 16 was a limited like yours and I left drivers stock


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Stock chain tensioner or did you go to a manual tensioner?

 

[niner]

I see, thanks. I did send Ben a message on here but haven’t heard anything. @dragonweld28

Benjamin Seinen (@seinenracingproducts) • Instagram photos and videos

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He’s on holidays but send him a message on his Facebook or Instagram and should respond quicker than on here.

 

[tmo1620]

Stock chain tensioner or did you go to a manual tensioner?

Manual tensioner


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