I have a 2016 M8000 Ltd 162 3” I bought last year. I rode it for the season but found it to be geared too low. I know d/r and 8 tooth drivers would be best but not interested in spending the cash. I have been looking at the bdx 21/49 set up. Just wondering if anyone has used this kit and if it works well? Quality? Is the 21/49 ratio the way to go? i know cat has changed the material the gears are made of year to year and want to make sure this is going to hold up.
2016 m8000 3” worth getting 21/49 gearing setup?
- Thread starter COLBEE
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mountianguy
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I am running the 21/49 ratio and it works good. I didn't use the BDX gears but I sure wouldn't hesitate to. With the 7 tooth drivers the final ratio is real close to the 19/50, 8 tooth. I did add a manual tensioner when I changed the gears but I was doing that with or without the change. You will find the bottom gear considerably heavier than the aluminum one currently in there. Overall a decent improvement but definitely no where close to the D/R 8T. If I had a do over the D/R 8T would be in my 16 LTD.
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Okay thanks for the info! So did cat change to an aluminum lower gear? I know on the 2013 I had, the lower gear seemed much heavier, this one damn near feels plastic lol. Also found on the 2016 I am changing my chaincase oil a lot more because the oil gets silvery way faster due to faster wear on that lower gear. Also what kind of manual tensioner did you go with? Is it a Yamaha thing or aftermarket?
skegpro
Active VIP Member
While changing your chain case oil isn't bad neither is the alluminum in the oil.
Extra lubricant.
What are you running for clutching in your 16? I'm doing the BDX 21/49 setup and trying to decide on a clutch setup for it. I've read on snowest that cat went to the 19/51 to reduce clutch speed and heat. Any belt issues?
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- #6
I’m also thinking about putting in 8t drivers with stock 19/50 gears without d/r. I’m told they are tight but they work and is a better way to go than 21/49 gears. Anyone have experience with this? And even if it does fit, does it cause any issues running that tight of tolerance?
AGGRESIVEZEBRA
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in heavier and deeper snow it can pack up and cause a lot of drag on the track. robbing power and putting more stress on your lugs.
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- #8
Good to know, always something no matter which way you go lol. D/r is the real fix, just not a cheap option. I was also going to swap out the stock 68g weights for 70g no matter which way I go as well. Very seldom I’m over 7000’, even where we ride in the mountains.
Allseasons
Active VIP Member
I’m about to start the D&R. Will be selling 21/49 gears. I can’t give you a comparison between stock 19/50 and 21/49, I changed gears before I ever rode it.
In Rocky, PM me if you wanna save some shipping/exchange
Also, ive run multiple clutching setups, too many to remember. The 18 roller clutch may be the best upgrade I’ve ever done period.
In Rocky, PM me if you wanna save some shipping/exchange
Also, ive run multiple clutching setups, too many to remember. The 18 roller clutch may be the best upgrade I’ve ever done period.
AGGRESIVEZEBRA
Active VIP Member
17 MC or 18 drop and roll chain case or rear half and belt drive and a template to cut the tunnel and where to mount everything.
AGGRESIVEZEBRA
Active VIP Member
its not the cheap option but if you have ever priced out a powerclaw track it makes it a lot easier to justify the cost. 2000+ for the 3 inch tracks.
mountianguy
Active VIP Member
My 14 had aluminum so that might be where it started not sure. The oil get silvery very quick, my concern was for the bearing on the drive shaft more than gear life.I used a manual tensioner off the 600 race sled but the Yamaha option is cheaper and the same thing.
mountianguy
Active VIP Member
My clutching is stock except for the primary spring, I have tried a couple different ones and still trying others, I have had no belt issues but i do run the vented side panels, really my sled works good and have no issues. I believe the 18 clutch setup with MDS weights is the way to go but pricey, if i spend any money on mine it will be MDS weights and spring. The Cat 19/50 with 8 tooth is very close to 21/49 7 tooth final ratio, so clutching will be the same.
Not sure how you guys justify spending that much money and time on updating an older sled when you never get the money back. Put that money into an 18 and at least you have a newer sled that is worth a little more.
Allseasons
Active VIP Member
I saved up to buy my sled cash, no financing. The way I justify it, every time you buy a new sled, it depreciates 4-5k instantly. Guys that finance that new sled, drop $1500-2500 just in interest. so as long as Cat doesn’t change the chassis, I don’t, but I could afford to spend up to 4K/year in maintenance and upgrades and still keep up to current sleds. Who cares what it’s worth at the end, when a sled is the worst anti-investment and one of the most expensive hobbies going.
With the used market as horrible as it is, I’d have to kick in at least 8k to get into an Alpha, then lose another 4K in depreciation. Forget it.
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neilsleder
Active VIP Member
I didn’t think a 2016 was an old sled?
It's not. I went from a 15 (that I rode for 3 full seasons) to a 16 this year. Just cause it still has two rails doesn't mean it's outdated lol
mountianguy
Active VIP Member
If you look at the cost of sledding and try to justify it you never do it. I sled because I love it, just like most of the guys out riding.Every year the sleds get better and that will continue. Allseason summed it up with the last line of his post.
tmo1620
Active VIP Member
Had a 14 HCR that I tried that on, ran the 3” with 8T drivers and 19/50 gearing, in heavy snow it was terrible for clearance and packed in too much and made a horrible rubbing sound pretty much steady. Changed to 7t with the 21/49 hyvo kit and manual tensioner and was way more better, also was running 70 gram weights with a stage 2 speedwerx kit and with all that set up it had lots of track speed and still lots on the bottom
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