2015 Ram 6.7 Cummins turbo

[Stg2Suby]

Well code free was short lived. Lol. Made it about 15 kms. Had 30psi boost when accelerating on to the highway. Exhaust brake worked every time. Then check eng light came on and wouldn’t make boost.

So I’m definitely not going the reman turbo route. Seems like a waste of money unless your planning on a new truck in the future.


Thinking of taking the actuator off to see where I’m at. If the turbo feels good I’ll just order the city diesel actuator then I don’t need to worry about calibration.

If turbo is pooch im either going to order one of the bd screamer / fleece vgt turbo

Or take my turbo off and get Alamo to repair it and install the city actuator.


Talked to a few mechanic buddies and think I can tackle the turbo swap myself. Typical do all my own maintenance anyway.


I’m going to check wiring prior to removing anything

Have you considered doing a 2nd or 3rd gen manifold swap with conventional turbo and remote exhaust brake?

 

[Turblue]

Have you considered doing a 2nd or 3rd gen manifold swap with conventional turbo and remote exhaust brake?

I looked into it but I believe that would require a deleted truck also?

 

[Turblue]

There is nothing wrong with rebuilding turbo and a new actuator, provided you haven't overheated it or anything. If you go rebuilt option getting yours rebuilt is best as you know it's history. In some cases it can be beneficial as they will have insight as to what the issue was or even look it over and tell you it's fine and just do actuator. Being that it's out of the truck and professionals looking at it they know if a turbo is fine or not (no offence but a mechanic looking at the turbo in the truck is guessing at best).

That's one of the issues of doing actuator, parts are not returnable and it's a bit of a gamble removing actuator and putting it back while you wait on them, you got to make sure you don't move actuator position if you can't calibrate it.

Nothing really hard about the turbo it's just a real c*nt of a job that you can find someone to do on the side for pretty reasonable, like $700 including coolant and oil change. Time you take off the fluid costs I know it's not worth it to me to swear for hours doing it.

I drove mine for a few months with it, found it really didn't like the cold. Parked in heated garage helped a lot, but if it sat outside a bit it would take a bit of driving to open and got to just feather the throttle until it happens. But driving like that is not good for the turbo at all, hence reason to not just do the actuator especially if you drive with it like that for awhile.

My thoughts on the city actuator it’s way better than stock and it I got my turbo redone be the best outcome from a stock turbo rebuild. Trucks been babied so doubt it’s been overheated.

But that all being said if I do it myself the 4100 new bd or fleece turbo pre calibrated might be right way.

 

[Stg2Suby]

I looked into it but I believe that would require a deleted truck also?

Yes your EGR is gone if you do this

 

[Turblue]

Well I think Bendy was correct. I believe it’s the actuator. Pulled the actuator off and the variable vanes feel fine. I’m going to order the city actuator….self calibrating.

 

[Turblue]

 

[SUMMIT TREE]

Have you tried pricing anything directly from cummins? Not sure if better or worse, but they are OEM.

 

[Tchetek]

Well I think Bendy was correct. I believe it’s the actuator. Pulled the actuator off and the variable vanes feel fine. I’m going to order the city actuator….self calibrating.

Wow. Your gonna trust him over cyle?…

 

[Turblue]

Have you tried pricing anything directly from cummins? Not sure if better or worse, but they are OEM.

I never did, I figured probably be the same quality as what’s on there. Taber diesel and the dealer said can’t get them on back order.

 

[Turblue]

Wow. Your gonna trust him over cyle?…

I typically don’t trust anyone….take their advice and see for yourself. Lol.

 

[Turblue]

This is the procedure City Diesel recommended.

https://www.citydiesel.net/index.php?action=viewitem&itemid=29012&cat=0

Checking the Vanes:
It is important to check the vanes before installing the actuator. A new actuator cannot fix your turbo for you and replacing the actuator is not a substitute for replacing the turbo if your turbo has a problem. Installing a new actuator on a bad turbo can kill the actuator so its important not to skip this. To check the vanes you should move the gear from one end to the other. At each extreme end you should hear a nice metallic clunk. The movement should be nice and smooth both directions with no tight spots. The gear will have some friction but it should be easy to move with your finger fully extended pushing on the vanes with the side of the finger. Its important to note that a small problem when not at temperature can indicate completely locking up and binding when at temperature. You should test the vanes with the gear in the neutral position (where it naturally rests) as well as pushing the gear towards the turbo and pulling the gear towards you while testing. Remember to go nice and smooth the object is not to slam it but to make sure it is nice and smooth. If that checks out you need to push it to both extreme ends of travel with as much force as you can generate with your hand. If after doing that its more difficult to move off of that stop you likely need a turbo. If you have any questions about if what you are seeing is correct please email or call us at tech@citydiesel.net or 800-950-2489.

 

[2kDoo]

Sounds like it time for twins with stacks . Let us know how it goes, I got a 2012 so I am assuming I’ll be going down this road at some point to.

I'll sell ya my setup cheap when you decide. Even take your vgt as partial trade haha

 

[2kDoo]

I typically don’t trust anyone….take their advice and see for yourself. Lol.

Dodge diesel truck world is about 1600 for turbos I think, outta lacombe.
Too bad you werent clsoer to EDM. GCL diesel is the bomb for turbos

 

[brianm]

I'll sell ya my setup cheap when you decide. Even take your vgt as partial trade haha

Haha twins aren’t in my future for that truck. Just maintenance, and towing my trailer till it’s dead.

 

[bendy]

Wow. Your gonna trust him over cyle?…

I won’t take any offence over that since I don’t know Clye… lol.

 

[bendy]

Dodge diesel truck world is about 1600 for turbos I think, outta lacombe.
Too bad you werent clsoer to EDM. GCL diesel is the bomb for turbos

I use GCL for injectors and pumps. They’ve been great to deal with the last 12 years.

 

[bendy]

I absolutely think you should buy a turbo! Just trying to help a Brother possibly save some cash. Take my advice with a grain of salt.

 

[Turblue]

Time will tell

 

[bendy]

Time will tell

Did you end up replacing the actuator?

 

[Turblue]

Did you end up replacing the actuator?

I ordered one but hasn’t shown up yet. If it turns out to be the turbo I’ll just swap the turbo with the new actuator.

What I’m feeling with the turbo vanes and the mileage on the truck I doubt it’s the turbo. I only use the truck for pulling it’s not a daily driver…so it can sit.