2015 ram 3500 no left trailer turn signal

[JayT]

Cummins diesel is a great power plant. Rest of the truck is meh. Ask me how I know lol. Just put a transmission in my 2015.

You have the aisin?

 

[busted2x]

You have the aisin?

No, rfe. If you have the 68rfe make sure you drop the pan and locktite the accumulator plate. 7 little screws that they chose not to locktite back themselves out and make a dang mess.

 

[JayT]

No, rfe. If you have the 68rfe make sure you drop the pan and locktite the accumulator plate. 7 little screws that they chose not to locktite back themselves out and make a dang mess. View attachment 227101

That sucks man. I've got the aisin and was not crazy about the shifting at first. Just had it deleted at 103000 km and all I can say is Wow! The guy I had do my programming put a 75 hp tow tune in and turned up the pressure just a little bit in the transmission. Woke that truck right up and the fuel mileage is insanely better. Only downside is now I have to smell diesel exhaust, but definitely a worthwhile tradeoff

 

[busted2x]

That sucks man. I've got the aisin and was not crazy about the shifting at first. Just had it deleted at 103000 km and all I can say is Wow! The guy I had do my programming put a 75 hp tow tune in and turned up the pressure just a little bit in the transmission. Woke that truck right up and the fuel mileage is insanely better. Only downside is now I have to smell diesel exhaust, but definitely a worthwhile tradeoff

I just bought the bd diesel 68 kit, ups the clutch pressure to 220 from 160 and has a big ass accumulator plate. That’s going in in the next couple weeks before the fresh one has a chance to die

 

[Frankenytro]

I had an issue that was very similar and I believe it may even be your issue as well. At the back of your bumper 7 way socket there will be a “Y” harness that allows the wiring to be piggybacked and fed up to your fifth wheel socket. Due to the spare tire being so close quite often the wiring will be pulled tight and zip tied to clear the spare but this will also pull on the pins in the sockets and possibly even pull one of them out of their locks. My problem was with the left signal as well as the wires were pulled and tied from the socket towards the passenger side of the bumper to do away with all slack before it ran up into the drivers side bed side. By pulling towards the passenger side the furthest pin from the passenger side is actually your left turn signal and that pin had skipped past its lock and was no longer making contact. I would take that connection apart and test for signal on the first connection from the truck to a plug and then narrow it down as you go closer to each 7 was socket. Hopefully this will get you back in shape.

 

[JayT]

I had an issue that was very similar and I believe it may even be your issue as well. At the back of your bumper 7 way socket there will be a “Y” harness that allows the wiring to be piggybacked and fed up to your fifth wheel socket. Due to the spare tire being so close quite often the wiring will be pulled tight and zip tied to clear the spare but this will also pull on the pins in the sockets and possibly even pull one of them out of their locks. My problem was with the left signal as well as the wires were pulled and tied from the socket towards the passenger side of the bumper to do away with all slack before it ran up into the drivers side bed side. By pulling towards the passenger side the furthest pin from the passenger side is actually your left turn signal and that pin had skipped past its lock and was no longer making contact. I would take that connection apart and test for signal on the first connection from the truck to a plug and then narrow it down as you go closer to each 7 was socket. Hopefully this will get you back in shape.

I thought that may be the case, so I checked continuity between the Box plug and the bumper plug. If I put power to the bumper plug there was power in the Box plug, and vice versa. So I'm sure it's not the plug connections themselves. My brother has a device that checks continuity on wires to try and find where the break is using the magnetic field around the wire. so we used that and Back fed Power from the plug itself and we could not find a break in the line all the way up until it disappeared under the cab.

 

[Frankenytro]

where my problem was was not between upper and lower sockets, it was between the factory feed which should have been attached to the back of the bumper socket instead of into the new “Y” harness that was put in place to feed both sockets. If the truck is not making contact to the “Y” all of your diagnosis steps would have showed the same results with the back feeding of power as the upper and lower sockets would still be connected but would not be connected to the trucks wiring.

I thought that may be the case, so I checked continuity between the Box plug and the bumper plug. If I put power to the bumper plug there was power in the Box plug, and vice versa. So I'm sure it's not the plug connections themselves. My brother has a device that checks continuity on wires to try and find where the break is using the magnetic field around the wire. so we used that and Back fed Power from the plug itself and we could not find a break in the line all the way up until it disappeared under the cab.

 

[Pink-Inc]

That sucks man. I've got the aisin and was not crazy about the shifting at first. Just had it deleted at 103000 km and all I can say is Wow! The guy I had do my programming put a 75 hp tow tune in and turned up the pressure just a little bit in the transmission. Woke that truck right up and the fuel mileage is insanely better. Only downside is now I have to smell diesel exhaust, but definitely a worthwhile tradeoff

The aisin can't be tuned yet

 

[JayT]

The aisin can't be tuned yet

Interesting. Then I suppose it's possible he lied but I don't see how that would benefit him. Plus it shifts very different than before tuning.

 

[Pink-Inc]

He likely changed the defuels on shifts but as for upping line pressure it's not possible through tuning unfortunately.

 

[JayT]

where my problem was was not between upper and lower sockets, it was between the factory feed which should have been attached to the back of the bumper socket instead of into the new “Y” harness that was put in place to feed both sockets. If the truck is not making contact to the “Y” all of your diagnosis steps would have showed the same results with the back feeding of power as the upper and lower sockets would still be connected but would not be connected to the trucks wiring.

I don't think that would cause a short to ground, resulting in a blown fuse. Originally I had a blown fuse and now it just won't work at all and the fuse is not blown. It sounds like what you have is just a disconnect, similar to a bad ground. We did pull apart where the splice is and check it and jiggle it around still nothing worked.

 

[JayT]

It means a totally integrated power module. It’s essentially a computer controlled fuse box. It monitors resistance on circuits and shuts them down if the load isn’t correct in either direction. Chrysler does use a fuse for the trailer circuits, but the power to the relay is controlled by the tipm. A tipm also allows for multiple circuits to be triggered by a single wire on a can-bus, based on different trigger resistances.

So there are no codes set for this and we have power out the bottom of the tipm. The problem is somewhere between the tipm and the back of the truck

 

[busted2x]

So there are no codes set for this and we have power out the bottom of the tipm. The problem is somewhere between the tipm and the back of the truck

Tipm feeds thru relay and fuse on trailer side only, so start at the fuse and check at multiple points down the line. I usually just pick out like 4 increments of harness and probe till I find where there’s no power, then work back to your last good point. Not a fun job but not a hard job either. Just tedious. Verify the there is power at the fuse, and that it’s making it out of the fuse box. Sometimes the terminal in the box get calcified, And a good fuse still isn’t getting power thru.

 

[busted2x]

So there are no codes set for this and we have power out the bottom of the tipm. The problem is somewhere between the tipm and the back of the truck

And make sure you used the right fuse. Those stupid maxi mini fuses are different than the full height maxi

 

[JayT]

And make sure you used the right fuse. Those stupid maxi mini fuses are different than the full height maxi

We found it! The wires were zip tied tightly to the frame right underneath the front of the box and had rubbed right through. Left trailer signal wire was broken completely off, hence the blown fuse first and then no light. There was also a brake light wire almost rubbed through