pfi572
Active VIP Member
I thought they upped it to .055” currently?
.0055
I thought they upped it to .055” currently?
Hahah, I thought it was going to be much worse after all the backfiring it did at 7000 rpm for a couple of seasons. Still coming in at 140 psi on both sides too.Put a fork in it. It's done.
Hahah, I thought it was going to be much worse after all the backfiring it did at 7000 rpm for a couple of seasons. Still coming in at 140 psi on both sides too.
Going ride the bag off it this year, then decide what the next step is going to be....
Well, those that know these gauges better than I do, is it .0020 or .020?
I used the indexing mark on the crank as a start and stop point, and if I remember correctly 180° from that point was the high side.Every tic mark is 0.001 so it looks like you are more than 20 thou. BTW you don't need to zero it. Just mount it up so you are somewhere in the pins free travel and watch the sweep of the needle as you rotate. I like to put a sharpie mark, on the crank, at either the high or low point and watch to make sure it's always at the same point and same amount through several rotations. This prevents poor readings due to setup errors.
0.020 at the crank snout is a lot more out at the end of the clutch.
In a full rotation of the crank, the need goes no lower than zero, and no higher than the picture you see there.
.0055
I was getting .024 turning it with the clutch bolt while the sled was laying on its side, and I'm pretty sure I was getting .023 on its skis with the clutch bolt.What did you get turning it over with the recoil instead of the clutch bolt?