2014 Summit XM 800 154" - Have $2000 available for upgrades

pistonbroke800

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The Cory Micku steep and deep clutch kit works awesome just get that instead of the rooster built.... first take the 2g down to the casino. put it on black. Do that twice then go get a turbo.
I agree the Cory Micku stuff works good too. My buddy ran it on his '12 XP and was a very close calibration, preformed very well
 

BeachSled

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From the people I have talked to Dean at Mad Motor Sports has a clutch kit dialed in for the XM and a thermostat kit that takes heat fade completely out if the equation. I will be trying these two kits when I get my XM. Guys I have talked to have rave reviews on this stuff.

I have the Grip N Rip braces sitting here in a box ready to go and will be getting a skid plate and an HPS can.
 

maxwell

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Had brutal results with rooserbuilt and dj. My rooster built issues could have been my crappy shr 860. But I bought the best 860 according to the Internet then the best clutch kit specifically designed for the 860. What a turd.

What I had AWESOME results with was anything bikeman. I had Cory build me a custom setup 2 years ago and I'm pretty sure it's what bikeman calls the steep and deep kit now since you can't order directly from Cory anymore. I'm going to check the parts and see if it is but I wouldn't hesitate to order the steep and deep kit.
 

assaultn

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pretty sure something was mentioned about martins doing clutching to snowchecks as well as the shock upgrade as a promo. Can anybody confirm this and if so what kit?
 

Sask Sledder

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Yes they were. It was ramps and a primary spring for way too much money. They were using steep ramps to get quick backshift (from what the guy at Martins told me.)
Don't know what the results were. The guy swore it was great, but i thought the kit should be like $160 max and it was around $275.
 
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mach123

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I have a roosterbuilt kit brand new in box for xm, just sold sled and now will sell kit, pm me if you want it. I am in edmonton area, thx
 

neilsleder

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Put the $2000 towards a trip of a life time! Pick a destanation that you always wanted to go and go!
 

Deano670

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Our clutch kit is COMPLETE primary and secondary springs, ramps, helix, and adjustable pins $350.00, a primary shim kit to take up the huge tolerance between the moveable sheave and belt as the tra primary has no adjustment for this from factory $50.00, a 120 deg billet thermostat housing and stat $225.00, mbrp can race or trail $310.00 and a new set of gears and chain to get your track speed up where it should be $280.00 this is the basic bolt on and go $1215.00 worth of parts. We also stock the spi pipe and y pipe fully ceramic coated 5hp gain for $800.00. Just some ideas for you to ponder. Pm me or call the shop and i can answer any questions you have. 780 986 6370

Thank you

Deano

MAD MOTORSPORTS
 

Clay911

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Before anything Grip and Rip should go on and immediately after that I install a RPM skidplate. I can't believe no one mentioned that they are the ONLY skidplate I would run if you ride early and late in the year and in alot of trees. It's saved my sled I don't know how many times. After that clutching of choice and just ride.
 

Nagzs

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Just checked out the website and it looks way better them BRB skidplate. What do you think of the A-Arm Braces? Do you use them?

Thanks
 

Clay911

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For riding in the mountains I wouldn't use the a arm guards as they would hold a crazy amount of snow and in the right conditions freeze up and affect steering.

He also does not have his latest 3 piece skidplate on his website. It is the one for the XM and is improved over the previous one to be stronger where needed and lighter overall weight.

NO skidplate offers the protection of these and takes the hits these do. I wouldn't even ride a doo in the mountains without one. Trips are too few and heli lifts way too much just to save a few hundred bucks getting a plastic skidplate

post-1996-0-27659800-1362411562.jpg post-1996-0-49587000-1362411567.jpg
 

Rust

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Pardon my ignorance, but are the Grip and Rip braces you guys are talking about A-arm braces??

Also with that carbon fiber skid plate do you remove any plastic or put that RPM one over top? And does it catch/hold more snow then stock?
 

BeachSled

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Pardon my ignorance, but are the Grip and Rip braces you guys are talking about A-arm braces??

Also with that carbon fiber skid plate do you remove any plastic or put that RPM one over top? And does it catch/hold more snow then stock?

Hey Rust,

The Grip N Rip braces help strengthen the front bulk head from damage. There are three parts to the overall kit. 1- suspension module reinforcement plate. 2 - engine module reinforcement plate. 3- front bulkhead reinforcement where the a arms tie in. All three parts help keep the front end from being damaged if you catch a stump or rock with a ski. Being as this is my first new sled and I would rather spend more time ridding and less time repairing I bought all three kits for $160 in hopes to save my self some trouble down the road.

Have a look at the kits here http://www.gripnripracing.com
 

Clay911

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you dont not remove any part of the stock sled. It will have snow that sits on top of it in the middle where your a-arms bolt up but any skidplate would have snow stay there. Its comes with protecting the module.
 

dsenych

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I have a 2013 XM and I would say don't bother with any engine mods unless your going to get a turbo... I know a few guys who have put money into little things like reeds, clutch etc... and it really doesn't make any difference. The glove box extension for the XM's are handy so you can always have a 2nd pair of goggles ready to go. I put scratchers on mine but the only time I've ever needed them was when I pulled my buddy's 2013 Cat out of Chapel last year. The gas caddy is a good purchase if your riding into March and April.. Also if your going to keep the stock clutch (that works really good!) a vent kit in the side is a good investment.... Just my 2 cents!
 

Rust

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Thanks Guys,

So what all is involved in instaling those brace kits? All pretty much bolt on from the bottom???
 

Sask Sledder

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You have to remove the muffler, hood and pipes. Its not fast. You need a right angle drill for the upper braces.
 
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