Hey guys. I'm watching my buddies ride their Flex-Edge XM chassis on their sides with ease and its got me thinking about my suspension settings on my 2014 Pro RMK 163". Overall, I'm happy with the performance of my sled, but, there is no question, the Doo sidehills easier than my Pro (at this point). This leads to my questions: Do you guys remove/disconnect the stabilizer bar? What settings are you running on your Walker Evans shocks? Have any of you tried a different front end? Thanks! I'd like to try to get my Pro handling better.
2014 Pro Chassis Set Up
- Thread starter jockdoc
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gdhillon
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I just picked up a leftover 14 myself. Havent ridden it yet b/c of lack of snow I had a look at the manual though, seems like adjusting the suspension to your weight is crucial
I had a hard time tipping over my 14 pro. I asked for help and was told to tighten the front track shock as hard as you can tighten it by hand. I also put on a 2" riser to get more leverage on the bars and to make it easier on my back, being 6' tall the 2inch riser is perfect.
once I did these two things it was easier to tip the sled over and once it's on its side it just sits there and is really easy to balance on edge IMO.
once I did these two things it was easier to tip the sled over and once it's on its side it just sits there and is really easy to balance on edge IMO.
CB1
Active member
I ride a stock 2014 pro, all my buddies call me side hilling machine. I can't believe how easy my pro sidehills. Not sure why your having trouble. I can literally ride it up the trail tipped over on its side
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- #7
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- #8
I hear Ya. The only challenge I've had was in the super technical trees, off camber, in styrofoam-type snow like in Golden/Hobo last weekend. I was pretty tired of wrestling the sled through the really tough spring like conditions, on arguably, really tough terrain. It isn't an issue when the snow is deeper and softer.
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Sometimes the dealers/ previous owners set up the shock preload incorrectly, it's well worth following the operators manual to go back to OEM starting point. The op manual is pretty bang on for most riders if using the original shocks and springs.
My take on XM vs Pro for side hilling:
The XM is way softer and seems easier to initiate, tip the sled over.... possibly less stable once on edge.
The Pro has less "body roll" and feels stiffer to initiate, but has a much easier balance point for keeping the sled on edge.
I can ride on one ski almost endlessly on hardpack with my Pro, my XM buddies can not.
My take on XM vs Pro for side hilling:
The XM is way softer and seems easier to initiate, tip the sled over.... possibly less stable once on edge.
The Pro has less "body roll" and feels stiffer to initiate, but has a much easier balance point for keeping the sled on edge.
I can ride on one ski almost endlessly on hardpack with my Pro, my XM buddies can not.
+SLEDWRECKS+
Active VIP Member
Disconneting the sway bar will help, riser block, and softer shock settings. Counter steering will lay it over with ease in good snow as well.
If your still having trouble getting it on its side, try setting up your ski's to narrow it's stance (like pictured below). Put both spacers on the inside. It sucks on the trail but easy to change with 2 -15mm wrenches.
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Wilk INStheWEST
Active VIP Member
Here's my take and what I've done to mine. I ditched the stock Springs and replaced them with the Raptor Triple Rate Springs. Much smoother ride now. Well worth the 300$. I ditched my sway bar and have always had my skis on the narrowest stance. It sucks on the trail, but who cares? Unless you are over 6'2", don't put a bigger riser on. I'm 6' and I actually bought the lower bars, so I've dropped 2" off the height. When in not on the trail, my sled spends most of its time on edge. Sure, a riser may get you some extra pulling leverage, but leverage works both ways. It also gives your sled more leverage to pull you off balance once you are in a sidehill (which could end very badly). I find it much easier to control a sidehill (through less than perfect snow, rutted up snow), with the bars lower. Commit to the counter steer and a little blip of Throttle will get it on its side everytime (with minimal effort) . The XM is so easy to roll onto it's side (thanks to Tmotion) but the Pro is much more stable once on its side. The Iceage Promotion block would be a very useful mod for you, if you are struggling getting it up on its side. Would help in the off camber situations, for sure (I sometimes struggle there too).
gdhillon
Active VIP Member
when you guys change the ski to spindle bushing to the inside where can you jack the sled up from? On my rev when I did this I went up to the bellypan/bulkhead with my jack anda 2x6 but I don't quite trust that on my pro seeing how its apparently easy to tweak the tunnel
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- #15
Ditched the stabilizer bar, playing with my springs, and dreaming of Fox Float 3 Evols... Oh, and grabbed an Pro Motion thingy similar to the T-Motion on the Doo. I hope to install it this coming week. I will post my impressions. A buddy went to a K-Mod 37" front A Arm set up with Fox's all around and totally loves it. Having just bent a lower A Arm and replaced it for $365 for an OEM, I'm thinking K-Mod pricing is pretty good!
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So, I went 36" Z-Broz front end, Fox Float 3 Evol R Burandt Ed, Ice Age Pro Motion, and borrowed my spring rate set up from Skinz Shock Therapy videos... All I can say is Wow!
What an outstanding improvement!!! I'm aiming at balancing the center of transfer with the center of gravity, and the Fox set up allows you to adjust your transfer point easily with a few strokes of the pump! Amazing difference. I think the set up shaved about 10lbs off the sled too, which is cool.
What an outstanding improvement!!! I'm aiming at balancing the center of transfer with the center of gravity, and the Fox set up allows you to adjust your transfer point easily with a few strokes of the pump! Amazing difference. I think the set up shaved about 10lbs off the sled too, which is cool.
Wilk INStheWEST
Active VIP Member
How is the ProMotion working out for you? Really interested to hear your opinion on it. I'm on the fence about throwing one in. All my Doo buddies say I should do it, as they think the T-motion was a huge improvement for the Doo, but I'm concerned that the Pro will lose that on edge stability I love so much.
minnow10
Active member
I may be wrong ,,, and I a sure I will be told, Is it not true that you do not want our front suspension to collapse during side hilling , It needs to flex to get the roll but it requires to be still and on edge rather than being collapsed ? Stiff ski pressure keeps the sidehill "cut" then the sled design takes over .
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Hey Wilk INStheWEST,
So far so good. I like a really agile feel and its just what you'd expect. When you initiate your turn, its rolls onto edge easier, and responds to subtle changes in your weight transfer more easily. I think its genius. Having said that, it isn't a huge step change toward a different handling sled, I just think it helps the sled feel a bit more compliant to your initial effort to getting the sled on edge. For me, I like the feel, particularly when the snow is set-up or kinda hard. In pow, it isn't a necessary upgrade. I did also narrow up the front, so the sled feels a lot more nimble now, which is what I'm looking for. Some may find it to be too "tippy", which I'd understand, but again, it depends on your rider desired handling characteristics, skills, and where you ride. Balance that idea also with the fact that we are riding a 15" track on the Poo, so you really get a nice roll over.
So, overall, two thumbs up from me, if you are looking for a slightly more agile feel to your sled.
So far so good. I like a really agile feel and its just what you'd expect. When you initiate your turn, its rolls onto edge easier, and responds to subtle changes in your weight transfer more easily. I think its genius. Having said that, it isn't a huge step change toward a different handling sled, I just think it helps the sled feel a bit more compliant to your initial effort to getting the sled on edge. For me, I like the feel, particularly when the snow is set-up or kinda hard. In pow, it isn't a necessary upgrade. I did also narrow up the front, so the sled feels a lot more nimble now, which is what I'm looking for. Some may find it to be too "tippy", which I'd understand, but again, it depends on your rider desired handling characteristics, skills, and where you ride. Balance that idea also with the fact that we are riding a 15" track on the Poo, so you really get a nice roll over.
So, overall, two thumbs up from me, if you are looking for a slightly more agile feel to your sled.
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- #20
Minnow10,
To the best of my understanding, your suspension should be compliant enough to allow the transfer of weight to the desired side, enabling you to pivot the sled around a virtual axis. Once on edge, the compression setting/ride height of your shocks should allow you to sidehill with manageable effort to maintain and change your lines and so on. The shocks set up should be set according to your weight and riding ability. Too stiff=too much effort to maintain the desired sidehill angles. Too much "collapse"=diving and uncontrolled pivoting on the panels I would think.
To the best of my understanding, your suspension should be compliant enough to allow the transfer of weight to the desired side, enabling you to pivot the sled around a virtual axis. Once on edge, the compression setting/ride height of your shocks should allow you to sidehill with manageable effort to maintain and change your lines and so on. The shocks set up should be set according to your weight and riding ability. Too stiff=too much effort to maintain the desired sidehill angles. Too much "collapse"=diving and uncontrolled pivoting on the panels I would think.
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