2012 XP Rollover now no brakes! Help!

Side Show

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Yesterday I to roll my 2012 XP over to get it out of a trench that I dug for myself. When I got back on the trail and up to 40mph I realized that I had no brakes. Absolutely zero resistance on the lever. I popped the top on the brake reservoir and had a look. It was pretty much full. The line connection on the master cylinder is tight, no leaks, as is the connection on the caliper. I attempted to bleed the brakes, and got absolutely no air out. The lever still has no resistance. If anybody has experienced this please let me know. I'm stumped and it's going to be a couple weeks until I can get it to a dealer.
 

omullinger

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Follow your cable from the lever all the way down. sometimes a severed cable can still have tension lower because of the casing.
 

lilduke

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Yesterday I to roll my 2012 XP over to get it out of a trench that I dug for myself. When I got back on the trail and up to 40mph I realized that I had no brakes. Absolutely zero resistance on the lever. I popped the top on the brake reservoir and had a look. It was pretty much full. The line connection on the master cylinder is tight, no leaks, as is the connection on the caliper. I attempted to bleed the brakes, and got absolutely no air out. The lever still has no resistance. If anybody has experienced this please let me know. I'm stumped and it's going to be a couple weeks until I can get it to a dealer.

Did you get oil out
 

maxwell

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Strange. Pretty common for skidoo sleds to temporarily lose a bit of braking power after a roll over but usually comes back right away once you pull the lever a few times.

The xp brakes are a huge pain to bleed. You need to look up the procedure otherwise if your bleeding them like normal brakes your just going in circles. I just can't recall the procedure but I think you need to out a tube on the bleeder into some fresh fluid


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Side Show

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Thank you for the tip Maxwell. Any idea where I could find the procedure for bleeding the brakes? I'm stuck out in the bush and I don't have access to a shop manual, but I do have the internet.
 

tko sled ed

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Take a look where the Handel pushes against the rubber there is a small piston that I have had pop out it is just held in by pressure and grease ImageUploadedByTapatalk1388030700.880515.jpg


From mooseknuckle sledding lodge
 

Dooitorbust

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Thank you for the tip Maxwell. Any idea where I could find the procedure for bleeding the brakes? I'm stuck out in the bush and I don't have access to a shop manual, but I do have the internet.

A vacuum bleeder will go a long way with your efforts. If you can't get your hands on one of them, just grab a couple pieces of clear tubing about 3 feet long or so that will fit over the end of the bleeder screw on the caliper.
Take the cap off your master cylinder and make sure it stays full.
Open the bleed screw on the caliper and suck brake fluid thru the tubing. If you need to switch out a piece of tubing, make sure the bleed screw is closed first.
Hope this helps.


2012 T-XP is the most fun I've ever had on snow!
 

senorjeem

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Take a look where the Handel pushes against the rubber there is a small piston that I have had pop out it is just held in by pressure and greaseView attachment 164475


From mooseknuckle sledding lodge


I would think that there is a detent or stopper on the brake lever that must be broken off to allow the lever to open up farther than normal i order for that plunger to fall out. Just a guess though!!
 

Side Show

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Thanks guys. I've tried everything I can out here. It's going to have to go in to the dealer when I get home. Another set of days off without a sled!


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rusty

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bleed line also, there isn't enough flow from piston to piston to push all threw. persistence never hurt anyone.
 

250mark1

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Try turning you bars all the way to the right so your master cylinder is as high as possible and zip Ty and pull the break lever as close to the bars as you can and zip Ty it in place for a couple days ( I allows any air in th system to come back to the master. Cylinder). This method helps a lot on the brembo brakes on ktm dirt bikes
 

Absledder

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I would think that there is a detent or stopper on the brake lever that must be broken off to allow the lever to open up farther than normal i order for that plunger to fall out. Just a guess though!!

there must be. I know a guy who does basically zero maintenance on his sled who's been riding with a broken lever for a month with no issues. the levers still there but if he doesnt hold it with 1 finger it just falls all the way around and out of reach.
 

Side Show

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Update: I can't believe I didn't update you guys right away. Apparently when I rolled over, I bent my Powermadd hand guard bracket down into the brake lever. I held the brake on slightly so I didn't notice a lack of acceleration. This ended up getting the brakes so hot that I had to replace the rotor, caliper, and even the drives haft bearing. I think it was around a $1200 fix
 

pipes

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Update: I can't believe I didn't update you guys right away. Apparently when I rolled over, I bent my Powermadd hand guard bracket down into the brake lever. I held the brake on slightly so I didn't notice a lack of acceleration. This ended up getting the brakes so hot that I had to replace the rotor, caliper, and even the drives haft bearing. I think it was around a $1200 fix

ouch, that's a little spendy, but I always say, An education costs money.
 

52weekbreak

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Update: I can't believe I didn't update you guys right away. Apparently when I rolled over, I bent my Powermadd hand guard bracket down into the brake lever. I held the brake on slightly so I didn't notice a lack of acceleration. This ended up getting the brakes so hot that I had to replace the rotor, caliper, and even the drives haft bearing. I think it was around a $1200 fix

Ouch. Just went out for a quick rip yesterday and basically did the same thing (cooked the brake). The $1200 bill was repair at the dealer correct? Looks like about $500 for parts if I replace the disk, caliper and everything. So P O'd at my stupidity I haven"t started disassembly yet.
 

Side Show

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Be sure and check the drive shafts bearing. Might be worth replacing it no matter what. You will already have it apart. The bill was $1157 with tax. Local shop rate is around $100/hour so it doesn't take long to add up.
 

RGM

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Yup replace the bearing even if it seems good. To bleed the brakes I lean my sleds over on the right side so the master cylinder is pointing up a bit. Also doesn't take much for the holes on the cylinder to plug, take the reservoir off to check.
 

52weekbreak

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Yup replace the bearing even if it seems good. To bleed the brakes I lean my sleds over on the right side so the master cylinder is pointing up a bit. Also doesn't take much for the holes on the cylinder to plug, take the reservoir off to check.

RGM - How much time am I looking at?
 
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