2011 pro chassis pro's and con's

[guido88gt]

what are the things to look for if buying a 2011 pro? i never heard of any negatives things about it yet, but im sure i will soon.. lol

 

[BILTIT]

Biggest issues is usually the engine.

I bought an '11 with blown engine and had it rebuilt, replaced fuel/oil filter, replaced reeds, have TPS checked/adjusted, replace/update injectors.

Check for bent tunnel, cracked/broken rear overstructure (underhood).

 

[guido88gt]

Ya I keep hearing motor issues. Looking at one that's all stock and don't want to have to spend a couple grand getting it up to snuff .

 

[+SLEDWRECKS+]

Also,
Give the primary clutch a lift and check motor mount bushing wear. Compression test of course and clean out exhaust valves.
Temp. probe fitting in exhaust pipe usually blows out - check for cracks. Stock rear bumper is junk.
Throttle Safety Switch on the bars can cause greif when it gets moisture in it.
Upgrade pistons at 2000 - 2500 km (Cylinder skirt failure takes out a crank real fast)
Check rear skid support plates. 2011 are aluminum, Usually pop out if your a rider Timbersled plates are cheap junk aswell, lasercut stainless for way less $$ and way stronger.

 

[Chrisco]

Save your money for a 13 or 14 huge upgrades from the 11/12.

 

[mb1]

Save your money for a 13 or 14 huge upgrades from the 11/12.

What mileage do you recommend a fix or pistons on a 13-14?


'12 T4
Husaberg 570FE

 

[Jeffpro800]

Save your money for a 13 or 14 huge upgrades from the 11/12.

Not true, the 11 is just as good and no issues with the composite over structure failing and bonded junk a arms pulling apart or drive shafts breaking also gearing down a 13/14 with the belt drive is way more money than an 11. There is good reason mountain horse on snowwest is recommending going with a std 800 even on the 15's.

 

[Rocky Mountain Rider]

I bought a 2011 demo, the tunnel was cracked at the rear, both sides, tunnel was replaced under warranty. I put a 2013 seat and C3 belt drive. I had problems with moisture in the intake, put frog skins on the hood vents and it's been flawless ever since.

 

[Chrisco]

Not true, the 11 is just as good and no issues with the composite over structure failing and bonded junk a arms pulling apart or drive shafts breaking also gearing down a 13/14 with the belt drive is way more money than an 11. There is good reason mountain horse on snowwest is recommending going with a std 800 even on the 15's.

Ok bud..... so the ****ty injectors, wire harness, ECU, gauge cluster, chain drive, I work on these things every day and when was the last time a drive shaft went down? The ride and feel of the 13/14 to a 11/12 is huge. buy what you can afford.

 

[007sevens]

Ok bud..... so the ****ty injectors, wire harness, ECU, gauge cluster, chain drive, I work on these things every day and when was the last time a drive shaft went down? The ride and feel of the 13/14 to a 11/12 is huge. buy what you can afford.

down doggy down....lol

 

[Chrisco]

down doggy down....lol

Well f&$k Dean try to give some good advice and.........

 

[sledhead9825]

Have to agree with Chrisco had 2 2011s lots of little problems. 13 and newer has a lot of upgrades you definitely want. My 13 has been flawless.

 

[007sevens]

Well f&$k Dean try to give some good advice and.........

LOL, I hear YA but it's just imaginary people behind a computer.

 

[Chrisco]

LOL, I hear YA but it's just imaginary people behind a computer.

Yah your right Dean.

 

[BILTIT]

I have ridden both '13 and my '11. The '13 feels a bit more agile and a tad lighter but not worth the extra coin to me. I have had no issues with my 11 other than the motor. Both new 13's i ride with had problems right out of the gate. The newer ones definitely have a better fuel map but that is easy enough to change on the '11. It's a crap shoot in my opinion. I prefer my aluminum over structure and steel arms vs the newer problematic stuff.

 

[flying frenchman]

Save your money and get a 2015. My 2011 rocks but I did have my share of problems.
Many upgrades were done to the new ones.
Get the regular Rmk and not the Pro. Why, regular Rmk has a chaincase, aluminum over structure,welded A-arm and best of all a front track cooler.
If you like belt drive and carbon fibre, and glued A-arm get the pro.
Oh ya, the handling is way better on my 11 then it is on the 13,14s pros.

 

[BILTIT]

The 11 pro is basically the same as a std rmk now minus the front cooler and plus the pro taper bars and different switch location I believe.