2011/12 Ski-Doo e-tec's

[sledslut]

So after a weekend riding with skidoo. i found out some cool things about the new e-tec. was talking to the Mechanic and Carl as well about a few issues i had on my Freeride and well also some questions i had from customers.

so the bigest one i found out is with the Clickers. the e-tec sleds on the trail you SHOULD/NEED to run on clicker 1. when they explained why. is cuz on the trail you are doing 7900 rpm at 1/4 throttle. that being said. your power valves haven't opened up all the way yet. causing engine problems, it will also give you better gas mileage and oil consumption. it causes the engine when on clicker 3,4,5,6 to over rev more and cause reed problems, power valve problems, the list went on. so for the sake of 5 min and a longer lasting motor use the clickers.

just a bit of adivce i found and thought i would pass it on.

Cheers

 

[EMANAARON]

I find if I dont put my 2011 Etec on clicker 1 on the trail, it pops and stutters and hesitates till i get to the top or if I put a load on it.

However once to the top these things RIPPPP!!!

 

[takethebounce]

I find if I dont put my 2011 Etec on clicker 1 on the trail, it pops and stutters and hesitates till i get to the top or if I put a load on it.

However once to the top these things RIPPPP!!!

You will get the hesitation on the trail if you hammer the throttle. Ease into the throttle at a moderate pace and you won't get this. Its simply an over rev.

There is a system in place that will protect the motor from over reving. If it goes too quick between X and Y it will back off and give you the hesitation.

Easiest way to solve it. Don't ride a trail

 

[EMANAARON]

I usually get the hesitation if the trail is rough and the thumb isnt so steady and im on Clicker 3 or more. I usually take it easy till i get to the top then put the hammer down, so i usually dont see a Hesitation at all!

 

[j335]

So is this a common issue with the etec? or just the 2011's?

 

[takethebounce]

There is no issue. (let me rephrase) Its not so much an issue as it is the engine management system working the way it is designed to work. But, working against the system can lead to issues.

When you are in a higher clicker the RPM's simply respond sooner to the throttle. I leave mine set, 3 or 4. I prefer 3 but deep days takes a little more to get in the peak RPM I prefer. I don't mess with my sled everyday to get every ounce of performance out of it. I can't be bothered to tink with it. Once its where I like it, I leave it and compensate through other methods. I have some mods on my '12 which respond better to a slightly higher RPM as well. The Rave's still open all the way at 7300ish rpm, even at 1/4 throttle, but, you are not activating the coils in the injectos all the way, so now your exhaust ports are wide open with only 1/4-1/2 the amount of fuel.

The etec is designed to protect itself. Knowing how the system functions helps avoid any gremlins.

With an '11 there are some serious gains to be had if you are willing to invest a few bucks.

 

[barefooter]

There is no issue. (let me rephrase) Its not so much an issue as it is the engine management system working the way it is designed to work. But, working against the system can lead to issues.

When you are in a higher clicker the RPM's simply respond sooner to the throttle. I leave mine set, 3 or 4. I prefer 3 but deep days takes a little more to get in the peak RPM I prefer. I don't mess with my sled everyday to get every ounce of performance out of it. I can't be bothered to tink with it. Once its where I like it, I leave it and compensate through other methods. I have some mods on my '12 which respond better to a slightly higher RPM as well. The Rave's still open all the way at 7300ish rpm, even at 1/4 throttle, but, you are not activating the coils in the injectos all the way, so now your exhaust ports are wide open with only 1/4-1/2 the amount of fuel.

The etec is designed to protect itself. Knowing how the system functions helps avoid any gremlins.

With an '11 there are some serious gains to be had if you are willing to invest a few bucks.

What is the trick with the 11's?

Thx

Greg


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I am here:

 

[takethebounce]

Basically the geniuses at BRP or whoever is responsible for the engine design (rotax I suppose) engineered the motor opposite the way it should have been done. (fixed for 2012)

The porting is inncorrect and the head design wrong. Also a thicker base gasket was used.

There are a few guys out there fixing it. SplitSecond seems to be popular on here and their work reputable but I have never had anything done by them myself. The best solution is to have the cylinders ported and the head milled or swapped to a 2012 head. Then the proper base gasket used.

Or you can wait until an overbore is released by someone. But they still haven't been able to correct the fuel delivery as far as I know for that.

Then you can look at the exhaust. They control the peak rpm's in one way through the pipe. The pipe was supposed to be changed in 2012, but it was the same as the '11. Swapping out to a larger pipe allows a higher peak rpm without the engine management system getting all upset.

 

[Modman]

The Rave's still open all the way at 7300ish rpm, even at 1/4 throttle, but, you are not activating the coils in the injectos all the way, so now your exhaust ports are wide open with only 1/4-1/2 the amount of fuel.
.

I'm not sure that is a bad thing unless you don't want higher port timing at the top end, which significantly reduces the amount the motor can flow. In the old days, anything above 3,000 ft you cranked the RAVE springs all the way out right at the parking lot and left them there, this allowed the ports to open sooner to "fully open". Unless you are looking for down low torque below 6,500 rpm, you want your ports fully open to allow the motor to flow. This was the original design of the RAVE's, basically like having custom infinitely adjustable porting, but automatically controlled in direct relation through exhaust pressure.

 

[takethebounce]

I'm not sure that is a bad thing unless you don't want higher port timing at the top end, which significantly reduces the amount the motor can flow. In the old days, anything above 3,000 ft you cranked the RAVE springs all the way out right at the parking lot and left them there, this allowed the ports to open sooner to "fully open". Unless you are looking for down low torque below 6,500 rpm, you want your ports fully open to allow the motor to flow. This was the original design of the RAVE's, basically like having custom infinitely adjustable porting, but automatically controlled in direct relation through exhaust pressure.

no, correct, I wasn't saying its bad.