2010 Dodge 3500 6.7

Alfred

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I have 16,000 kilometers on my new truck and I am averaging 17 litres per 100 kilometers. Will I get better fuel economy by doing a DPF delete or is there something else I can do? Please help.:(
 

SAVAGE420

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I would do the 6.7L delete and get the 5.9L and G56 upgrade IMO. :beer:

Yes you will see a small gain with the DPF delete as well as a few more mods ect ect....
 

jaredszakacs

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definately noticeable difference in mileage with the dpf delete kit talk to chad hall at alligatorperformance.com or vinny himes they both have cummins with dpf deletes and love them 1-866-255-7212 tell them jared from cranbrook told you to call they will answer every qestion you got regarding this issue
 

dezmitchell

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Buddy @work bought a 2010 3500 nice truck he wanted to to the delete kit in it but there your warrenty goes out the window.
 

jaredszakacs

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ya it sucks but the warranty is out the window with the dpf delete kits i hate that about the new trucks as soon as you do anything good for the truck the warranty is void
 

summit889

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I have 16,000 kilometers on my new truck and I am averaging 17 litres per 100 kilometers. Will I get better fuel economy by doing a DPF delete or is there something else I can do? Please help.:(

Mine is doing a bit better 15.5l/100 kms. they do get a bit better supposedly after 20-30,000 kms. I like the truck but not the mileage. I have a 10 second daily driver crewcab and was hoping to keep this one stock, but will have to see if the mileage increases.
 

Rockwerx

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If you want to gain a few mpg and still keep it stock then unplug the EGR on the intake manifold. This will stop a lot of soot (not all) from going back into the combustion chamber and cause less soot to accumulate in the DPF system. It will then go into regen mode less which will also help your fuel economy. I believe the EGR system is harder on the engine than the exhaust restrictions.

I blocked my EGR off and went with a turbo back exhaust on my 6.7 (plus a few other mods to make it all work better) and it really helped my truck gain some fuel economy. Almost double over the stock setup. These engines take a lot of hours before they are fully broken in so mine may have gotten better over time. My truck also had one of the earlier flashes and subsequent flashes have overcome the poor fuel economy issues I had with my truck. It is still not near as good as the 98 12 valve CTD I drove but it does make a lot more torque and hp than it did. Stock went down to 10 mpg (US) empty and towing less than 7 mpg. The truck is now getting just under 20 mpg empty and around 14 towing 15,000 lbs at highway speeds. I am usually towing and 99% of my miles are one the highway.

There are lots of parts out for the 6.7 CTD and many things being tested for the market still. I am done modifying mine for awhile. I can wait while more people test some aftermarket transmissions as I still want to run the 6 speed automatic. I really love the 2 overdrive gears combined with the higher low rpm torque output of the 6.7. You can cruise around towing at 1500 rpm where the old 4 speed transmissions would make the engine run a bit faster.

One day I would like to run compound turbos as they are the ultimate for towing and streetability IMO...but until I am convinced that the new tranmission will hold the extra torque I will be content to wait. Once I get a decent transmission I might change the exhaust manifold and turbo before I go straight to a twin setup just to try it out. One turbo may be all I need/want if I pick the right size turbo from what I have been reading on some other forums. My goal would be around 650hp and 1200ft/lbs to the ground.

Good luck with your new truck!
 

jaredszakacs

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look at a ppe tranny kit you can pick them up complete w/torque converter for under $2500 and will hold over 1200 hp lots of guys on a site called duramaxforum.com use them and use them hard for sled pulling and drag racing and have no isssues at all and they all rund big injectors with compond twins
 

Rockwerx

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look at a ppe tranny kit you can pick them up complete w/torque converter for under $2500 and will hold over 1200 hp lots of guys on a site called duramaxforum.com use them and use them hard for sled pulling and drag racing and have no isssues at all and they all rund big injectors with compond twins

I sent them and email asking about transmission kits for the 68RFE. I will post any info if they have anything to offer for the late model Dodges. They sure make some cool and cost effective kits for the Allison transmission though!

Thanks for the help guys, it sounds like I will be voiding my warranty!:d

No problem! I went through this a few years ago. Have you tried unplugging the EGR valve plug? If you have to return to the dealer plug it back in and after driving it and shutting it down a few times the CEL will go out. That is about the only thing you can do that will not void your warranty though. You could try it to see how your truck responds and it won't cost anything.

I installed a Magnaflow #15986 5" turbo back system on my 6.7 CTD. It fit well and really uncorked the engine's exhaust system. It is louder than stock so if noise is a problem you would probably want to add a second muffler. My friend installed an Aerodyn into his and it quieted it down enough for his wife to ride in the truck again. lol She was really picky though. My wife does not mind the sound our our truck.
 

jazzman

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:shrug:Mine was close to the same. 17 to 19 per 100 and now it just rolled over 44000kms and it is about 14 to 15 per 100 km. And that is with a quad and deck and a couple hundred pounds of tools, all the time. I run 35 '' rubber on it also.
 

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-Clayton-

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:shrug:Mine was close to the same. 17 to 19 per 100 and now it just rolled over 44000kms and it is about 14 to 15 per 100 km. And that is with a quad and deck and a couple hundred pounds of tools, all the time. I run 35 '' rubber on it also.

I'm thinking your fuel economy will go up once you take that flames plate off! :d :d :biglaugh:
 

Longhorn

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Talk to your dealer, Im a pipeliner, and my DPF clogged over and over, my dealer allowed me to remove mine along with the 2 cats when the truck had less than 3000km on it, and did NOT void my warranty in any way. I have had almost 3 years of warranty work completed with no issues from the dealer. And yes the delete increased my mileage by 25%, 100,000kms increased it by about another 15%. The 6.7 as mentioned above takes a long time to break in.
 

lightening1000

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everyone on here remember the 2010 has different programming to the engine and trans than 09 and older, first thing the dpf delete and egr block off will do wonders for the 10, i run the h&s programmer and have the upgraded trans tune [this is a must for the 68re night and day difference, trans is not so confused anymore and the shifts are much firmer, also 5th and 6th will NOT come in till like 80km and 90km per hour not 60km per hr, i get about 12.5 highway with my cc lb with 4.5 lift and35' tires, the truck is tolerable now with all the stuff i have done to it.
 

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jazzman

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lightning she looks good, how do like that lift? I was thinking of doing the same. I will have to post a clean pic next time.:beer:
 

Cyle

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It's a sad thing to say, but a lot of times you are further ahead to sell it and buy a 5.9 if it has many miles on it. If you mod a 6.7 and end up with a dud or wait to long, the engine or turbo or both could be pooched already. Some run great once the deletes are on, but once they got so many km on them they are a ticking time bomb, and the engines aren't nearly as reliable because of the emissions dumping soot back into them.

Unless you get VERY lucky with a dealer they won't touch one with anything, sometimes something as small as a intake is enough. And the biggest problem is chrysler doing it. If they get caught doing warranty work on a truck with a dpf delete, it can mean goodbye for the dealer. Under absolutely no circumstances would chrysler EVER let someone remove the DPF. Against federal laws.

It's sad it's the only way to get a new diesel. I plan on buying a 2011 eventually, but a full delete kit will be ordered before the truck and all the emissions will be off the second it's driven home from the dealer. But it's a big risk, because if that engine has a issue from the factory and drops a valve or whatever at 5000km or whenever your pretty much hooped and paying for it yourself.

If you plan on keeping it, fuel mileage should be your last concern......I would be a lot more worried about loosing a turbo or motor and THAT be the reason to drop emissions.
 
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lightening1000

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lightning she looks good, how do like that lift? I was thinking of doing the same. I will have to post a clean pic next time.:beer:


thats the rev tek 4.5" and it is a real good designed lift< it uses all 4 axle foreward arms, track bar drop, sway bar link drop, and the alignment was bang on, i have had pro comps lifts on previous trucks and this one is superior to them. it steers and handles better than factory; stiffer, no body roll, also uses new coil springs not the spacer. well worth the money and it isnt very expensive.
 

Cyle

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thats the rev tek 4.5" and it is a real good designed lift< it uses all 4 axle foreward arms, track bar drop, sway bar link drop, and the alignment was bang on, i have had pro comps lifts on previous trucks and this one is superior to them. it steers and handles better than factory; stiffer, no body roll, also uses new coil springs not the spacer. well worth the money and it isnt very expensive.

Nice truck. Just having a hard time wanting to drop $50k on a new truck that I have to put a bunch of work into to run right.......when I can buy a hell of a nice 5.9 and mod it up to be superior in everyway like my old one was. Just really want a shiny new truck :( 2010's were suppose to be problem free, but it's yet another BS lie.
 

gotboost

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i didnt buy mine for fuel milage if i wanted fuel milage i would have bought a jetta diesel just saying:d
 
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