2006 REV setup/mods Q's

[Cartel]

Hey guys,

It’s been a while since I was last on the site, but as usual the snow fall we have been getting and with the numbers of days until the first mountain trip is getting smaller and smaller I am looking to get my fix for riding where ever I can.

Long story short I have been a Cat guy for years, but this year I have been forced to switch over to a 2006 REV 600.. originally this was a write off due to an unfortunate run in with a rock a few years back by a friend. Managed to get it to about 95% of the condition I want it to be in, and have new throttle side A arms on order to get that number to 99%...

I was wondering what are some good set ups with this sled and what I should be looking at for mods on the less expensive side?

First off I think you need to know the type of rider I am and the riding style that I have in order to make your suggestions:
I am 6’ & 200lbs with no gear on (luckily its gym weight not beer weight). I love playing in the trees, boondocking, getting to the top of a powder covered mountain and do some downhill turns. I try to get some air time by jumping or dropping… Might try some sled skiing this year, but that wont have much effect on how I want to set up the sled… basically I am out there to free ride…. In summary it might be easiest to say that I am not all that into High Marking..

My set up thoughts:
-stiffen up the front suspension and remove the sway bars
-Try and lose some weight off the sled where I can
-Put on some handle bar risers to get in a better stand up position (any suggestions on height or brand?)
-The MBRP can that is on there should be good enough
-Put frog skins on the vents as lots of snow builds up on the hood during downhill turns
-Get rid of the back bumper/tail light set up in favor of a small LED light set up
-Maybe get rid of the under hood baffling? Will I gain much from this??
-Is a new seat worth it? (BOSS or similar)

Any other suggestions? Anything with the rear track/skid? Two wheel kit?

I have tried to read up on this as much as I could and got to the last page of this section reviewing what has been said, but still had some uncertainties...

Thanks for the help guys!

 

[Bnorth]

is it a 144?

 

[Cartel]

Yeah its a 144, sorry forgot that part

 

[AkNomad]

First, I would skip the Frogskins and go with a more durable set of vents. 2 Cool Vents, XXX Modrod Vents, just to name a few. I've got basically the same sled except mine is the SDI flavor. I am 5'10" and 195 without gear on, ride pretty much the same way as you but I also like to hillclimb. Here is what I have done to my sled to give you an idea of what you might want to consider doing to yours:

-Vents on both clutch and exhaust side and on gauge pod
-Upgraded to rebuildable front HPG shocks with HD springs, all powder coated black
-Floated my secondary
-Added drop brackets
-Put Meathooker Feethooker running boards on to stop snow buildup
-Skidplate
-Modified my steering bracket to move the steering stem forward, very easy mod
-Got rid of most of the foam under the hood/side panels
-Moved the switchblock and mounted it on the riser
-Removed most of the clutch guard except for the metal top cover and drilled 1" holes in it for added cooling
-Put 3 1" holes underneath my airbox, covered with Frogskinz for more air flow into my engine
-Changed the rev brake lever/switch over ot the XP X model switch, no more broken brake switches

Things I want to do: DJ clutch kit, Mod Skis, Freeride bars or similar, 700 SHR mod, add rebuildable HPG shocks to the rear suspension, XP rear bumper from Skinz Gear, modify my switches to console mounted toggles and push button switches.

 

[Cartel]

Thanks AkNomad!

Here is what I'd like to do right away
-Vents on both clutch and exhaust side and on gauge pod
-Upgraded to rebuildable front HPG shocks with HD springs, all powder coated black (prob wont do for a while)
-Floated my secondary - What does this do? just prolong belt life?
-Added drop brackets - Is this just to add height to the tunnel to help with trenching in deep snow?
-Modified my steering bracket to move the steering stem forward, very easy mod - Anyone have pic's on how to do this Mod? I couldn't find anything..
-Got rid of most of the foam under the hood/side panels - Will Do when I get home
-Removed most of the clutch guard except for the metal top cover and drilled 1" holes in it for added cooling - Is this just for cooling?
-Put 3 1" holes underneath my airbox, covered with Frogskinz for more air flow into my engine

 

[AkNomad]

Floating your secondary allows the belt to align with the clutches and cuts down on wear and heat.
Adding drop brackets gets the back end up and allows for more clearance inside your tunnel. If you want to adda track with taller lugs it will be easier with the brackets. As far as it keeping you from trenching on climbs, the jury is still out on that one.
Here's a link for that steering column mod. News from the ttab mod shop .... - DOOTalk Forums - Page 13
Removing the plastic cover from the cutch does a couple of things, first you will eliminate a little bit of weight and secondly, it will keep your clutches cooler and having the vents will really help in this area.

 

[powderhoundbrr]

There is a real easy sterring column mod you can do where you locate your steering post about 2 inched forward. This really gets you a little more forward and is a must do FREE mod. Link to it here


News from the ttab mod shop .... - DOOTalk Forums - Page 13

 

[Kiwionsnow]

The 2006 is the cream of the crop for the revs, Change your post forward. Nice little easy to do mod. check your chain very close. if is the stock one watch it every trip for a 1/2 link or other on the dip stick magnet. better yet put pull the cover and go over it with a fine tooth comb. You should put in a 15 wide top gear with a 15 wide chain and all will be good. do not mess with anything else except for a little jetting and clutch weights for your area. I ride an 2006 and have several friends that still run them and they have been fantastic machines. Up until this year of the new machines they where very hard beat.

 

[AkNomad]

Since the weather was so crappy this weekend I was able to complete the switch relocation mod on my rev Summit this weekend. Been wanting to do this for quite some time and finally found the time to do it. I got rid of the ugly Doo switch block and moved all my switches off the handlebars. I used ZX chassis switches for the hot grips and rer and the rev 440 hi/low beam switch. It came out pretty good I think and cleaned up the handlebars. Oh yeah, I added my own little touch to the stock kill switch but it probably won't last...........lol.

 

[Cartel]

You should put in a 15 wide top gear with a 15 wide chain and all will be good..

Can I pick this up at any sled shop? or is there a site I can order this from??
Thanks!!

 

[Cartel]

Since the weather was so crappy this weekend I was able to complete the switch relocation mod on my rev Summit this weekend. Been wanting to do this for quite some time and finally found the time to do it. I got rid of the ugly Doo switch block and moved all my switches off the handlebars. I used ZX chassis switches for the hot grips and rer and the rev 440 hi/low beam switch. It came out pretty good I think and cleaned up the handlebars. Oh yeah, I added my own little touch to the stock kill switch but it probably won't last...........lol.

Did you have Reverse? How could I set up that wiring??

Thanks!!!

 

[AkNomad]

Just go to your local Doo dealer and get the rer switch that they made for the zx chassis, cost about $8. The wires just swap over from the rev switch to the zx. If anyone is interested in doing the complete switch block removal mod I can probably find the directions on how I did mine.

Oh yeah, my custom kill switch cover fell off after the 2nd ride. Lasted longer than I thought it would though. lol

 

[Cartel]

Just go to your local Doo dealer and get the rer switch that they made for the zx chassis, cost about $8. The wires just swap over from the rev switch to the zx. If anyone is interested in doing the complete switch block removal mod I can probably find the directions on how I did mine.

Oh yeah, my custom kill switch cover fell off after the 2nd ride. Lasted longer than I thought it would though. lol

I am deff interested in doing the complete switch block removal mod!!!

I want to put on some RSI risers & bars and clean up the switches at the same time!

...btw... just noticed...100th post!!

 

[AkNomad]

Here it is, hopefully it will all make sense to you.

Switch control relocation mod

Remove the switch control block from the handlebars and disconnect the 2 flat connectors. Cut and remove all the wire ties then remove the entire harness from your sled, this makes it easier to rewire your new switches. Also, save the switch block in case you decide to put your sled back to stock. When putting 2 wires together, I recommend that you solder them and not just twist them together, this will prevent them from coming apart and causing problems down the road.

The wires for the dimmer switch are, grey for the high beam wire, red/orange is the hot wire, grey/violet is for low beam. Snip these off from the flat connectors and wire them to the 440 dimmer switch, the wires on the 440 switch are the same colors as those on the harness so it’s a simple rewire job. Cost for this switch was about $40.

The red/yellow is the hot wire for your hot grips and thumb warmer, snip it off from the flat connector. You’ll wire this to the center terminal of both the thumb switch and the hand warmers switches using a jumper wire. I used the hot grip and thumb warmer switch from the ZX chassis sled. Cost was about $27 for both with the rubber boots.

The beige wire and the red/grey wire are the RER wires, snip them off the flat connector and wire them to the RER switch. Again, I used a switch from the ZX chassis sled. Cost was about $8.

I don’t have electric start so I capped that wire and tied it back with a wire tie.


Snip the 2 orange wires from the flat connectors. The two orange wires get wired together onto one female spade connector (AGW 16-14).

Snip the 2 orange/violet wires off of the flat connectors. The two orange/violet wires get wired together onto one female spade connector (AGW 16-14). These two sets of wires get connected to the hand warmer switch, one is high and the other is low. I believe the orange/violet wires are for high.

Snip the brown & brown/yellow off of the flat connector. These are the thumb warmer high and low wires. I believe the brown/yellow is for high.

That's pretty much it. Attach the appropriate spade connectors to the ends of the wires and plug them into the new switches. Trim the wires to length and heat shrink tubing them together and you're set.

The best part about this is if you decide you don't like it or want to put it all back to stock, you can just buy a new wire harness section and plug the stock switch block back into it. The new harness is about $60.

 

[Cartel]

The same way this Tread started last year, Snow Feaver, and now it's getting an update for the exact same reason!

First off last season was the first season that I rode on the REV platform and man it's got a solid set up. But I never got around to many mods last year, for various reasons, to make it my own ..... what I was able to do I'd consider to be very minimal:

1. Floated the clutch
2. Removed sway bar
3. General maintenance (new carbides, plugs etc.)
4. Trimmed the snow flap... Yeah I'll count it due to the list being so small

So far in the last few days I have already done:

1. 4" riser
2. Moved steering 2" forward ( way easier to do then I thought)
3. Removed old suitcase rack/tail light
4. Ordered but haven't received stiffer springs for front suspension

Still need to:

1. order a new lower A arm for the right side
2. Do a ski alignment (dam tree)
3. Vent clutch and exhaust sides
4. Figure out why reverse only works 10% of the time...
5. Build 2 custom GoPro mounts my specialty!
6. General tune-up to prep for the first ride

What are you guys doing in the preseason to get ready? Have I over looked anything!!?? What would you add to the list as a "must"

Thanks and see some of ya out at the Sled Show in a few weeks!!

 

[Culvert]

Looking at picking the wife up a 2007 MXZ 600. What is needed for the floating clutch? Is there a kit out or just simply reomve some washers to allow it to float.

 

[duck]

Looking at picking the wife up a 2007 MXZ 600. What is needed for the floating clutch? Is there a kit out or just simply reomve some washers to allow it to float.

I can make you the spacer you need to allow the secondary to float.
$35 shipped with instructions
paypal is duck899@gmail.com

 

[keller450]

Floating your secondary allows the belt to align with the clutches and cuts down on wear and heat.
Adding drop brackets gets the back end up and allows for more clearance inside your tunnel. If you want to adda track with taller lugs it will be easier with the brackets. As far as it keeping you from trenching on climbs, the jury is still out on that one.
Here's a link for that steering column mod. News from the ttab mod shop .... - DOOTalk Forums - Page 13
Removing the plastic cover from the cutch does a couple of things, first you will eliminate a little bit of weight and secondly, it will keep your clutches cooler and having the vents will really help in this area.

Where can I get drop brackets?

 

[georgef]

How much of a riser can I put on an 06 summit x without extending cables?

 

[powder dawg]

good to hear i bought 2 this year, 1 stock , 1 mod. both run sick.