16 xm troubleshooting

[kingerna1]

Just looking for opinions, maybe this has happened to someone else and can send me in the right direction. It has a redline turbo with a boondocker controller with 700 miles that has been running awesome. Sounds like 2 separate issues but i'll mention the first in case its related to the second. I am getting the "check key" every now and then which at times can take a few restarts or a few minutes to clear. Spare key does the same so I assume to replace the post? The second happened last trip when I drove the trial up just fine then went to restart and it starts, then you see the check engine light flash briefly and it shuts down. Only for a couple seconds. Towed her back to the trailer, found nothing obvious and then it started fine with no registered p codes. Next day ran good up the trail and after couple hours of riding got a P code 1476 " rave not reached mid position" when doing a pull but everything felt normal. At the end of the day the same thing happened where it would start and flash the CEL and shut down. After a dozen tries I held the throttle down on the start and it would stay running but barely and then boom it revved up and i was able to ride out.

So a couple questions come to mind. Can the check key issue have anything to do with it shutting down like that? Or can issues with the rave valve lines or dirty rave valves cause the sled to not idle at all?

I will be looking into it on days off but I'm looking for feedback to get an idea if its something I can do or take take it in. Any opinion is appreciated. Thx

 

[kingcat162]

I had the check key issue before - and it was all because I took my sled to APP in st.albert and the guy took 2 ft of extra O2 sensor cable and zip tied it all directly under the round key ball under the plastic cover like by the fuel filter - I didn't know what was going on - I thought it was because he was in the buds system and messed something up - took it the nearest dealer and got soaked for $150 getting a new key that was completely unnecessary all I had to do was move all the wiring - I was having issues with the power valves too - but just throwing the code - no real driveability issues - got my valves cleaned and reset on the buds and just taping it and sending it - I've heard the valve solenoid can act up and sometimes needs replaced - also heard the power valve is a steady issue with boost

 

[turboetech]

A buddy had a heated visor wired into his front panel and it effected the key until he rewired it to the far left panel away from the key....just a thot

 

[tex78]

There is a extra harness you can get from doo that has extra r. F frequency filter to stop issues

 

[maxwell]

do you have any accessory lights? HID etc?

 

[Bnorth]

Try installing a ferrite on the RF post if it doesn't have one already.

 

[Dmf]

As Bnorth had said install the ferrite kit to your harness for the key issues.
as for the rave valves I bet you blew one or both the rave valve check valves in the check valve manifold that sits between your intake boots. It's a white plastic piece that sits in a rubber protector.. pull it out and see if you can blow throw both ports freely or not.. should not be able to blow through them

 

[oler1234]

As Bnorth had said install the ferrite kit to your harness for the key issues.
as for the rave valves I bet you blew one or both the rave valve check valves in the check valve manifold that sits between your intake boots. It's a white plastic piece that sits in a rubber protector.. pull it out and see if you can blow throw both ports freely or not.. should not be able to blow through them

To expand more more on this the top one is vacuum and the bottom one is pressure

 

[kingerna1]

A buddy had a heated visor wired into his front panel and it effected the key until he rewired it to the far left panel away from the key....just a thot

That's interesting I did relocate my post on over by the hand warmers so I'l l play with that a bit. Thx

 

[kingerna1]

do you have any accessory lights? HID etc?

Don't have any other lights. Could it be a stator issue? The only thing I can think of is my handwarmers were stuck on high last couple rides but not sure if that would have an effect on the stator at all

 

[kingerna1]

To expand more more on this the top one is vacuum and the bottom one is pressure

I will check that for sure. Thanks for the input.

 

[maierch]

To expand more more on this the top one is vacuum and the bottom one is pressure

Here’s test procedure for the manifold. It’s a pain in the ass to get at you basically have to pull the air box and throttle bodies. Wouldn’t hurt to check your reeds while you’re in there too.

Also pull your rave cover off and make sure neither of your bellows are blown off from boost pressure.

If they are use the recommended sealant to reinstall them. Depending on your turbo kit there’s likely a small pop valve somewhere on the system that may need to be adjusted to bleed pressure off the race system to prevent the bellows from blowing off. I always found 5-6lbs to be a good setting.

 

[kingerna1]

I found the spark plug loose on the PTO side. Couple more questions. Can I be detonating if I have no codes showing and if so how would I know that I was? I can see the plug causing the sled to not start but could the one spark plug not indexed properly throw the rave valve code like I mentioned? Thx

 

[MK4TDI]

I would highly doubt the spark plug and rave valve code are connected.

As other have mentioned, check the rave valve pressure/vacuum system. Also make sure the sensor is secured, I had the screw back out on my XM that caused one of the 3 codes.

I would reccomend deleting all the rave valve pressure/vacuum system and converting it to cylinder pressure, but you are running a turbo and I've heard the cylinder pressure setup doesnt work well with boost.