08 800R WOT Issues

Ekim

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Need help. At wide open throttle my XP bogs, dies down, coughs, runs improper. Starts fine, idles fine, runs at mid throttle fine but has top throttle issues. Checked compression, it was good at 150lbs both sides. Exhaust valves seem to be in good working order. Move in and out OK. Exhaust pipe and can flow well. Changed plugs and ????? Any ideas would be a great help.
 

takethebounce

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What rpm are you reaching? Is this when the motor is loaded or just on the trail? Could still be the rave's not opening properly. Is it at a certain elevation? DPM issue possibly.

What are the clutch components like? Bushings are within spec? Belt is good? 377 belt. Is the throttle cable actually opening the carbs all the way? Seen people have issues with the cable routing after they changed something.
 

xp mountainrider

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I was also having the same issues with mine on the weekend, 2000 ft it wood run fine, As I got up around 6000 Ft it wouldn't run at all at full throttle so the first thing I went for was the DPM switched it out and it ran awesome again.

I wood start with the simple things first..
 

craze

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same issues as you same mt,hade cleaned raves but they had loosened,gullitines had wound out,tightened clockwise,yipee,watch them bolts dont over tighten anything on this sled,love your torque wrench.
 

craze

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you were asking about jetting last year,bin running 450 jets 6000km yanks,same comp,shaved head.
 

Johnny

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Do a search on here, I had the same issue last year on my 2010, drove me bonkers after checking damn near everything it was the dpm solenoid valve (?) . problem was intermittent and only at higher rpms. Theres been a few other sleds in local shop with same issue last season. Hope this helps
 

Ekim

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Throttle Cable was good, full movement. Problem was happening at all altitudes, 2500ft and 6000ft. Looks like I will have to remove my rave valves too check them properly. Thanks for the Info. Any info on process or torque specs for the raves? How to do it?
 
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craze

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the torque value is 80lb-inch for the bolts holding rave valvesto block,caps are35lb-inch,the gullitines tighten by hand,mine had backed out on one side and rave wasnt opening all the way.dpm solonoid will stick same symptons,pull apart carefully and shot of wd-40 will fix it.
 

Ekim

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Which port do you put the wd-40 into? Can I do this without removing the dpm solonoid.
 

CUSO

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This is what your DPM solonoid looks like, you just have to spray some wd-40 in it,and wipe off excess. One small screw, your done, It's in your DPM rail.

dpm soloniod.jpg
 

tex78

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my 2010 was doing it yesterday off and on ... i found if i got out of it sometimes and back into it .. it was ok for a bit again ... ill try the wd40 into the dpm and check the raves ...
 

neilsleder

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try the carb heaters too. they have cleared up most of those type of issues for me

Yah I drove all day one time with my sled spitting and sputtering, then we get back to the truck and then I think about the carb heaters.
 

tex78

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i am going to do the wd40 trick just cause.... and the next time i ride it the heaters will be 1/2 on ....

hey maxwell does a guy realy need an aftermarket t stat ? my 07 never had one and i hade a temp gauge right at the dummy t stat housing ... never seen stupid temp swings at all ....

i see my 2010 has a plastic out side t stat looking thing and someone said the alum aftermarket ones are better....
 

maxwell

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nope. factory one is fine. no need to drop 400$. if your having serious overheating issues then its not a bad idea i suppose as it will drop it another 10 degrees. but other than that if it aint broke dont fix it. ive yet to see this mysterious heat fade on any of our sleds. but maybe its out there.
 

tex78

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K figured so... What about a clutch brace for the secondary housing.

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