08 xp starter gear (ring gear) removal?

[FatGuy]

My buddy just blew up his crank on a 08 800 xp and when the crank went the teeth on the starter gear on primary left some BAD grind notches in his case.

I have the same sled and was wondering if it can be removed and ran without it? or do I need it there for the weight and balance aspect? and does it give strength to the inner clutch face?

I don't have electric start and don't want it on there for when it blows. (3000 miles I know it's gonna blow up soon) I don't want it to wreck my case.

I tried to do a search but my iPhone Wont let me.

Thanks fatguy

 

[POWDERSLUT]

u don't need it ,i've got over 2000 kms on mine with no issues at all,that is the only steel piece on a xp

 

[CUSO]

I would leave it on, there are some threads on here about this subject. I believe it acts as a flywheel to make the motor run smoother.

If you are worried about your crank, you should be checking your runout every time you clean your clutches.
If you blew a lot of belts, that, I believe will shorten your crank life.

 

[FatGuy]

thanks cuso i kinda thought it had something to do with that.

how do you go about checking runout??? cant find any good answers on here?

fatguy

 

[lightening1000]

u don't need it ,i've got over 2000 kms on mine with no issues at all,that is the only steel piece on a xp

x2 take it off, have not had 1 crank issue and they come off when al my sleds are new, has nothing to do with balance.

 

[teeroy]

x2 take it off, have not had 1 crank issue and they come off when al my sleds are new, has nothing to do with balance.

when peeps talk about the balance issue, they are referring to the fact that since '08 BRP has been balancing the sheave with the ring gear installed. may not be an issue obviously but one of those things that is interesting to know.

 

[thumperracing]

ya just take it off no worries everything will still be balanced

 

[CUSO]

thanks cuso i kinda thought it had something to do with that.

how do you go about checking runout??? cant find any good answers on here?

fatguy

Get a dial gauge with a small magnetic base, pull primary, attach magnetic base on metal plate thats on the end of the motor.
Set the dial gauge to read the edge of your crankshaft taper, about 1/8" in from the end of your crank.
Se the gauge to "0", turn crank slowly with your clutch bolt, if it reads a difference of more than .003" you might have a crank issue.

 

[FatGuy]

Sweet cuso. That's just what I needed.

That's what I need to do. I just got my primary off and looks like the seal puked out the isoflex grease so I def want to check it.

So if my output shaft on the crank happens to be out is there a way to fix it? Or is the crank junk?

Bud was saying he heard in school about a proceder that I think was called pinging? Where you tap the metal with a ball pin hammer and it ( shocks) the high side back to somewhat true?

Have you ever heard of this?

 

[CUSO]

I would leave it up to the experts to true a crank. Friend of mine had his out by 9 thou and it wasn't salvageable. Mots machine tried to weld it, but it was too far gone.
He had to get a whole new crank, bearing and seals.

 

[Beels]

If you weld a Doo crank, it's no longer acceptable as a core if you end up having to buy a shortblock assy. in the future. Just a FYI.

 

[takethebounce]

Sweet cuso. That's just what I needed.

That's what I need to do. I just got my primary off and looks like the seal puked out the isoflex grease so I def want to check it.

So if my output shaft on the crank happens to be out is there a way to fix it? Or is the crank junk?

Bud was saying he heard in school about a proceder that I think was called pinging? Where you tap the metal with a ball pin hammer and it ( shocks) the high side back to somewhat true?

Have you ever heard of this?

If your seal puked out the Isoflex the seal on the bearing is shot. If the seal on the bearing is shot there is a good chance the bearing on the PTO side is shot. If the Bearing is shot checking the crank runout with the method indicated may show excessive runout over .003"

If you get excessive runout the bottom end should be rebuilt.

If the crank is within spec you can replace the seal and add more isoflex. Don't buy the isoflex from the dealer though, search it out on the internet at 1/10th of the cost.

As far as removing the ring gear goes, I believe I have read just about every discussion on it and I leave mine on regardless of the many people who have no issues.

Seems most motors are ticking time bombs anyhow. Who is to say whether you have a motor that is going to last 800 or 3800 miles. You could pull of the ring gear and next week you pop the motor anyways.

There are companies you can send your clutch away to have it balanced as a whole verses components being balanced. Only issue then is if you need to replace a component the balancing may not be the same.

As far as I know and I am not an engine builder you can't ping the crank in the sleds as its a different bearing style than say an automotive crank bearing.