what kind of belt should I buy???

[overkill131313]

OK I have a 05 RMK 900 that has had the same belt for 900 miles and thinking I should look into another belt for this year. scared to change it because this one is doing so good lol. anyone know what is working the best for this sled besides a polaris belt? make and number??

 

[rmksledder]

OK I have a 05 RMK 900 that has had the same belt for 900 miles and thinking I should look into another belt for this year. scared to change it because this one is doing so good lol. anyone know what is working the best for this sled besides a polaris belt? make and number??

all i have ever used is polaris belts then i decided to try a carlisle and it didnt last any longer than a few hard rides

 

[Summiteer]

As long as it matches your shoes.........

 

[OnlyPolaris]

only use polaris belts. they give the best performance. a lot of time the aftermarket belts are not quite the right size. might be a little wider or something.

 

[overkill131313]

I forgot to say what belt I'm running lol. it seams to be the factory updated belt 3211111? is this a good one or is there something better now! how much $ does this belt run?

 

[OnlyPolaris]

if its the polaris belt that is ment for that sled then it is a good belt. they run around $100.00

 

[Rob1334]

I would not run the 111 belt in the sled, the 115 is a much better quality belt for the torque that sled has. As I stated in your other thread, reshim, and run this belt. May cost more ($150 or so) but once setup to run it set and forget. There is a reason nobody uses the 111 belt anymore, it is not designed well for the punishment a high torque, high HP sled that has alignment issues(whole 'nother thread...)

Also, very important in whatever you decide is to make sure you wash your belt before installing, as hot of water as you can stand, use a mild soap (I like hand soap) and SCRUB the heck out of it. Companies never wash the belt good enough before throwing it on the shelves, the releasing agent used to get the belt out of the mold can and will leave your clutches glazed, decrease performance out of the belt, increase heat in your setup, etc. WASH THAT BELT!!!

 

[overkill131313]

can anyone tell me how hard it is and how to shim a clutch. I would like to learn this but not like I can go to the dealer and say can you teach me lol. what should it cost to do this at a dealer?

 

[Scuba]

buy the 115 belt they are very good but they are pricey as they cost $189 a copy.

 

[overkill131313]

went to dealer today and looked at both belts. the 115 is sightly narrower!(like maybe .040-.060 ish) it must be better in the compound. still what is involved in the shimming? help!

 

[500efisks]

Do yourself a favor. Try a Ultimax XS and work it as hard as you can. After you stop smiling let us all know how happy you are. Trust me. Just try it and forget about belt issues. As long as your clutches are aligned properly you will be sold.

 

[overkill131313]

what xs belt? model number? and do I have to re shim my clutch from a polaris 111 belt?
still would like to know how to reshim belt for a 115 belt?

 

[Rob1334]

Sorry about not getting back to you on this, hopefully this thread helps you understand better: Polaris P85 Drive Clutch - SnoWest Forum

As for the Ultimax belts, they are a good quality belt, but they are touch and go on any sled, some belts work better with certain machines thatn others. I use to run Carlisle belts on my mxz and they worked great. I have not heard anything great from them on the Pol900, from the sounds they are about the same as the 111 belts.

If you read the above link, it will explain the importance of shimming/deflection/clearnace of clutches and belts. Every belt is different from the factory, they need to be measured and fit accordingly. It is the same reason you can't run different brand weights in high HP sleds at different elevations, get one brand and stick withh it, whole nother thread though.

If this is still way over your head it is a good time to find someone who knows this stuff fluently and have them do it for you. Clutching is very precise, and if you don't understand all aspects of what is really going on there, especially in a 900 and the problems they have with cranks and bottom ends, clutching is more important than you can imagine.

Hope your getting this haha, keep asking questions I'll try and answer!!!

 

[500efisks]

what xs belt? model number? and do I have to re shim my clutch from a polaris 111 belt?
still would like to know how to reshim belt for a 115 belt?

You should be able to find your belt here.


As far as shimming. Unless your after every once of performance don't waist your time. I doubt you can even tell the difference. As belts wear over time it changes any way. I did shim my clutch as I had it off anyway for a routine overhaul. I would not bother to remove and tear it apart just to shim it.

 

[Rob1334]

I don't want to get into an arguement over this, overkill asked what is working best for this sled and I told him, but it is important because of the issues with the 900 that you reshim the clutches. A properly balanced clutch is vitally important to a crank, which the 900 already has issues with. Don't chance bad clutching, it will bite that 900.

 

[500efisks]

Please explain how shimming effects clutch balance. Shimming is for the purpose of setting the side clearance of the belt to the clutch unless I have missed something?? I set mine to about .020" using the Ulimax XS belt. Shims look like thin washers.

As far as Ultimax XS belts go. Myself (800 RMK) and all my riding buds who run everything from 700 cc Rmk's to 900 fusions (4 fusion 900's to be exact) have this belt. After running on stock Polaris belts and having belt failures we all bought the XS belt. Yet to fail a belt and the buds want to buy more for spares. I tested the belt checking how hot it and the clutches got running in all types of conditions (fast trail ridding, WOT deep snow, etc.) and I was amased at how cool the belt and clutches ran. The belt is very flexible as compaired to other belts. Takes less power to drive the belt and the flexibility is why I think the belt stays cool as there will be less heat generated in flexing the belt.
When I bought all the belts for all the buds (6 belts I think) in 2 different lengths I calipered them all to compare manufacturing width variances. Total variance for all belts was .002" and was consistant over the length of the belt. This is why I use no other. Belt wear measured in 500 miles was .010" on my 800 and I like to use the throttle as an on/off switch.

 

[Rob1334]

Sorry, just realized I was typing two thoughts into one sentence, was looking for a machine shop locally to balance clutches and combined the two thoughts. Sorry if I confused anyone, good catch.


First thing is belt shimming. You are correct, shimming controls where the belt sits inside the Clutch. This is very important when you change a belt to double check the belt variances as they will affect how they ride in the clutch, and also depending on where they sit will affect the life of that belt both from heat and wear, so yes clutch shimming is important.

I think the ultimax works extremely well on short track sleds, I loved that belt on my MXZ, I abused that sled like a rental and belts were the last thing I worried on. On a longer track sled there is a lot more stress on a belt, I'm guess since he said it was an RMK it has a 151, the more common length 900 out there. That is a lot mroe track to be on the ground to torque around than say a 121, thats about 225 more sq. inches of track on the ground to pull (((151-121)/2)*15). Not saying that may be a reason a different compound belt might be used, just a thought.

Maybe an Ulitmax will work on the 900, I have just seen a mixed review on them on many different forums, but overwhelming support for the 115 belts from polaris.

What is the longest track you guys are running the Ultimax on? What temps are you getting out of the clutches as well as the belts? Any venting?

 

[500efisks]

My RMK is a 151" track and I ride flat land and mountains. No issues at all. Do not know temps but I can hold my hand tightly on the belt after a hard run and can touch the clutch surfaces no problem. That would equate to about 120 F or so as 130 F most people would find that temp too painfull to touch.
No extra venting. The fusions are 121" tracks.
I honestly cannot say much about the belt life on the Fusions as the riders of these machines are not hard core WOT dudes. Just happened to buy brand new 2005 fusions (old inventory) for under $6000 Cdn.

 

[Rob1334]

Do you know what belt they were using before the Ultimax's, were they the stock 111 belts? Did they blow those at all, or just decide to switch?

Amazing you can get them for that price yet, our dealer here has a holdover 900 switchback still sitting here, they used it as a demo and are still asking more. I think a fusion would be a pretty sweet ride myself, a lot of torque in a 121", would be a great trial/ditchbanger sled

 

[Lanko]

I have been riding an 05 900 RMK since new and have yet to eat a belt, by no means am I saying I am on my original belt I usually change them out at about 500 miles just on principal. I have been running both the 115 and the 111 and in my honest opionion do not notice any difference between the two belts, for about two years after purchasing the machine everytime I went to the dealer the service manager would give me a new belt so I have about 3 of each stockpiled. I have no idea what the cost difference is but I would run either without even a second thought. I do not have a lot of experience with non oem belts but am assuming the ultimax belt would be similar to the 080 belt that the 900s originally came with, so am not to sure if they would hold up to the vibration and torque these mills produce. Keep in mind that my sled has a had a lot of clutch work done and has the chit vented out of it so this also helps with keeping clutches cool and not killing belts.