T 3 174 2000 KM Maintenance to date

Keith Brown

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I hit 2000 KM on my 2015 sled this week on Boulder. The ridiculous low maintenance is almost embarrassing.It,s bone stock with the exception of additional idlers and a OEM GPS.

1) Sliders at approximately 400 Km (I didn't have a clue about 3 inch tracks.The set of replacements I installed are still good)
2) I adjusted the track when I replaced the sliders
3) Replaced throttle lever broke in crash
4) Adjust chain tension
5) Replace kill switch broke in crash
Season ended with 800 Km
6) Replaced chain case oil and adjusted chain
7) Replaced kill switch broke in crash
8)Belt adjusted the last ride

Crap this sled is durable and has low maintenance. It would be nice if the factory can would accommodate easier access to the chain case and the electrical accessories were a little easier to plug in. Although there not to bad once you have the knack.

Virtually all my riding has been in Revy. Lots of crashes lots of tree strikes and tons of full bar clicker 5 riding. Guess I better change the belt.
 
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tex78

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Get a can and adjuster is easy, good seal connectors are tougher to work with yes
 

Keith Brown

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Don't like loud cans so I'll keep the OEM. I built a spring tool for the OEM can that works OK. I would not mind finding or building a better spring tool. I put notch's on the sides of a large flat blade screwdriver. One at 45 degrees for pushing and one at 45 degrees for pulling. Some day I would like to do a you tube Video on the BRP electrical plug replacement. The current video's I found are crap. In fact the video I saw the guy didn't have a clue. I sharpen one of the flat sides of a 1.5 mm flat blade screw driver. With this tool 30 seconds flat per terminal!! No dental tools, no prying. Push wiggle and twist, done..
Get a can and adjuster is easy, good seal connectors are tougher to work with yes
 

Teth-Air

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Keith if you want to upgrade your sled and put a belt drive kit on it, I have one in stock.
 

Keith Brown

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Keith if you want to upgrade your sled and put a belt drive kit on it, I have one in stock.
Thanks Chris not sure if I am going to buy the new 850. Hoping to ride it soon. I am really liking the 174 with so much amazing snow this year but still on the fence.
 

catrutt

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I love my 174 as well. One question I have is with the clutching. At 2000 meters on clicker 3 it will pull to 7900 rpm but the drop to 7700 on a long pull. On clicker 4 it goes to 8100 and drop to 8000. Is this normal? Belt new this winter and adjusted properly.
 

RGM

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Don't like loud cans so I'll keep the OEM. I built a spring tool for the OEM can that works OK. I would not mind finding or building a better spring tool. I put notch's on the sides of a large flat blade screwdriver. One at 45 degrees for pushing and one at 45 degrees for pulling. Some day I would like to do a you tube Video on the BRP electrical plug replacement. The current video's I found are crap. In fact the video I saw the guy didn't have a clue. I sharpen one of the flat sides of a 1.5 mm flat blade screw driver. With this tool 30 seconds flat per terminal!! No dental tools, no prying. Push wiggle and twist, done..
 

Merc63

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I love my 174 as well. One question I have is with the clutching. At 2000 meters on clicker 3 it will pull to 7900 rpm but the drop to 7700 on a long pull. On clicker 4 it goes to 8100 and drop to 8000. Is this normal? Belt new this winter and adjusted properly.

mine does that too I think, I just had it on clicker 4, wet heavy snow 8000-8100rpm. Usually at clicker 3.
 

drew562

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I love my 174 as well. One question I have is with the clutching. At 2000 meters on clicker 3 it will pull to 7900 rpm but the drop to 7700 on a long pull. On clicker 4 it goes to 8100 and drop to 8000. Is this normal? Belt new this winter and adjusted properly.

Powerfreaks thermostat will fix that.
 

Keith Brown

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I may not have monitored the RPM as close as you. I usually set my RPM for the worst of the worst climb/pull. Normally I will gear down on the clickers when see 7700 and I will often see 8000 on the next clicker setting which meets the 7900 +- 100 Rotax recommends. But I don't watch that close. I usually take a look when I am deep in the chew when I need every thing the big girl has and predicate my clicker setting for that. I am finding it has as much or more to do with snow conditions as it does with altitude.
I love my 174 as well. One question I have is with the clutching. At 2000 meters on clicker 3 it will pull to 7900 rpm but the drop to 7700 on a long pull. On clicker 4 it goes to 8100 and drop to 8000. Is this normal? Belt new this winter and adjusted properly.
 

Keith Brown

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Not sure I haven't checked since I put the new sliders on 1600 km ago. I did feel the drive sprocket skip once last time I was out when I was gouging hard over some rough sh!t. Its over due but, when I did set up the track after the slider replacement I just followed the instructions in the manual.
How tight or loose are you running your track now?


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Bnorth

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How would a thermostat fix a rpm problem?
At not much more than normal operating temperature the etec pulls timing so a higher flow thermostat runs the sled cooler and keeps it below timing cut.

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tex78

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Yes, I have a engine tech t Stat in my xm, takes longer to warm up, takes longer to get hot.hot with not much snow on trail
Also if u stop for lunch ect, it's back in warm up mode where everyone else isn't, little bit of a pain in the azz sometimes

But I do think it makes a difference
 

neilsleder

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Don't like loud cans so I'll keep the OEM. I built a spring tool for the OEM can that works OK. I would not mind finding or building a better spring tool. I put notch's on the sides of a large flat blade screwdriver. One at 45 degrees for pushing and one at 45 degrees for pulling. Some day I would like to do a you tube Video on the BRP electrical plug replacement. The current video's I found are crap. In fact the video I saw the guy didn't have a clue. I sharpen one of the flat sides of a 1.5 mm flat blade screw driver. With this tool 30 seconds flat per terminal!! No dental tools, no prying. Push wiggle and twist, done..

The best spring tool is a chunk of rope. I use and old peace of pull cord. You just hook on the spring and pull. It never slips so a lot less chance of hitting your nuckles on the sled. The only bad thing is you can push a spring off. But you can pull around corners. And it works good if you need to take springs off on the trail. Everyone has an emergency back up pull rope in there tool kits.


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oler1234

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Yes, I have a engine tech t Stat in my xm, takes longer to warm up, takes longer to get hot.hot with not much snow on trail
Also if u stop for lunch ect, it's back in warm up mode where everyone else isn't, little bit of a pain in the azz sometimes

But I do think it makes a difference

as much as the e-tech stat worked in the day.. powderfreaks, cr-racing, terra alps make the better one with the arctic cat thermostat. number 1 reason is it is a high flow stat like the stock one. e-tech stat Is a low flow. don't belive me, cut your stock one out and compare. low flow will create more restriction in the cooling system creating a bigger loss in HP
 

tex78

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Oh I know, the stock ones suck lol



The body of mine is engine tech, but is a cat stat yes

It was free so...... Lol


One thing dealer said when I got pistons done, is not one over heat code
 
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